I have heard quite a few of you talk about removing the MAF screen, and aboiut how it improves take off acceleration. So, what is this, and how do I do it, and is it safe? My friend owns 3 mark 3 series toyota supras, and he is ussually the one I go to to discuss performance parts, but he says that I should not do this and that I risk damaging the Mass Air Flow sensor if I do. So Please Explain!!!!!!

Screwed up my idle, but from what I understand, If I had something other than my 'homemade' CAI, it would work better. There are a few users here who have done it. Pull the boot off the intake side of the Supercharger, and you'll see the screen inside. CAREFULLY remove the retainer clip running around the outside. CAREFULLY remove the screen.....a very fine pointed knife or jewelers screwdriver works well, but don't damage it, 'cuz you might need to put it back!

My buddies who are Techs at work say "Don't Do It". This will cause improper readings to the ECM from the now damaged (and inaccurate) MAF. The short term "gains" are really illusionary. All you're really doing is sending a "false" reading to the ECM, which in turn will try to correct the "problem".
But this is just my prespective on this subject....it'* your own car & we are all adults here (I hope so), so do want you "FEEL" is best for you.

The Screen part IS the SENSOR! The PCM works within set parameters. If these parameters change then it will try to get it back to these set or default parameters.
Fuel mileage changes with age or time run. Usually the PCM gets better with age not worse. You see a brand new car will get lousy gas mileage until the engine is broken in & the vehicle'* PCM has a chance to adjust it'* default parameters for better driveability. After awhile it reaches a new set of default parameters. It'* sort of like you getting used to doing things a certain way , when all of a sudden, someone turns your world upside down! First instinct....resist change! Second instinct.....adapt!
You would have to burn alot of coolant to wreck that O2 sensor! If your car was mine, I would do this.....disconnect battery for about half an hour. This will allow the PCM to relearn! Try it out for about 700Km or a couple of days (upto 7). Pull any codes available & go from there!

How is the MAF screen part of the sensor ?? I understand straigtening the air out to give it more accurate reading.. but at the same time.. physics dictate that if you change the angle of air ( via duct or honeycomb ) the air will slow down to accomplish this. I have mine removed and am having a blast with it.. there is a general improvement in all but the lowest rpm, and have done it to Tamara'* ( unfortunetly.. I destroyed the bottom of her MAF screen ). But if you remove it and feel or want to keep the air straight through the MAF sensor, then simply take a small piece of the MAF screen and attatch it to just before the MAF sensor in front of the housing.

I pulled mine out a few months ago and it has been working fine for me. Yes, the idle is a hair rougher but I do notice a slight torque and hp gain too. I have a stock airbox assembly. From what I understand (like Drifter420 said) a CAI will help to smooth out the incomming air flow to the sensor but won't add the extra restriction of the screen. A CAI will also give you a little more power as well.

If you pull the screen I would recommend geting a CAI installed on your car. I haven't done that yet but I plan too in the near future.

It all depends on what you want. A quieter smoother running car or a little more power but a slightly rougher idle.

Like SSei92 stated too.. the idle it a little rougher and a little higher then before, but works great. SSEI95, why not run a 4" dryer duct into the airbox ? I"ve done it also on my car and Tamara'*. Mine is pulling ( ram- air style ) from just beside the foglights, and Tamara'* is hidden just above her driver side fog lights. It allows for cooler air to flow into your airbox ( since it'* pulling air from outside the engine bay ), and pending on the angle of the opening ( it could work as a ram air style ). The best part about it was that it'* a $4 dollar jobby for the dryer duct, and the fact that if it rains hard or you live up here where it snows, you can simply just push the duct up a little more so it sits behind the bumper.. thus you don't have to worry about having to change it every season.. yes I'm lazy... however, I'm also looking for a piece of aluminum piping ( I've just been too lazy to find out the diameter of the tubing required from TB to airbox and angle ). That little rubber ribs creates a lot of turbulance ( thus restriction ) for the air going into the TB.... humm.... maybe that'* why they have the MAF screen there ???

Thanks for the replies guys, I think that for now, I wil just leave it alone. I have decided to set my sights else where. I have found a salvage dealer that I work with through the Auto trader, and he has agreed to find me a L67 engine, so I am goin to do an engine swap, and get rid of my L36. So now I have more questions, but I will post that on a different forum at a later date.

As Drifter said, we removed my MAF screen too...and i have had no problems what so ever. And all the things warned above are the same: idle, gas milage, etc. No problems..so I am not sure what the big huff is about?? Maybe my car is just special

I have removed my screen also and have had no problems at all. I switched to the higher octane gas after that. The switch may have prevented the rough idle that many here have described.