Repairing my brake lines and I have a couple questions
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Repairing my brake lines and I have a couple questions
We got some snow then the next day we got an ice storm. Needless to say the snow plows, plowed my car in. If it was just snow I could have driven out of it but since it was glazed with ice, i had to literally chip the car out and rock it back and forth to get it out. Of course, in all my great luck in life, I ruptured a brake line in the process.
First question, the line has a hole in the rear driver side where the line goes over to the pass side. It is close to a cylinder looking thing. I don't know what this cylinder is but I was told it'* some type of valve something or other. There is another one of these on the line that runs to the drivers side real brake as well. Anybody know what this is? The brake line screws into one end and then it is screwed into the other end and then continues on from there. Both are rusty. I was unable to break the nuts on this thing lose without damaging the brake line. So I cut it out. Funny thing is, this cylinder is rusty and the line for several inches on both sides of it are rusty then after that, the brake line looks silver and basically new. I'm sure I cannot bypass whatever this "valve" is so I will put it back on my brake line and then use a double flaring tool and put in new line and splice the line with proper fittings and unions I bought from the auto store to fix the line where i cut it off.
Second question, I don't THINK the master cylinder ever got completely empty. I'm not positive. It got very low because of the leak. I filled it and pumped the breaks to find the link. Then filled it and had my wife pump the brake so i could confirm that I had found the leak. So my actual question is, will I need to bleed the brakes at all four wheels? The line that ruptured goes to the pass rear wheel. I have decided that I will cut out the bad spot on the second rear brake line to the driver rear, as well because it is very rusty and it looks dangerous so I think it would be wise to repair it while I'm down there anyway.
So, do I need to bleed all the brakes then, or just the rear? By the way, mine has front disk and rear drum brakes. Thanks in advance for any advice.
First question, the line has a hole in the rear driver side where the line goes over to the pass side. It is close to a cylinder looking thing. I don't know what this cylinder is but I was told it'* some type of valve something or other. There is another one of these on the line that runs to the drivers side real brake as well. Anybody know what this is? The brake line screws into one end and then it is screwed into the other end and then continues on from there. Both are rusty. I was unable to break the nuts on this thing lose without damaging the brake line. So I cut it out. Funny thing is, this cylinder is rusty and the line for several inches on both sides of it are rusty then after that, the brake line looks silver and basically new. I'm sure I cannot bypass whatever this "valve" is so I will put it back on my brake line and then use a double flaring tool and put in new line and splice the line with proper fittings and unions I bought from the auto store to fix the line where i cut it off.
Second question, I don't THINK the master cylinder ever got completely empty. I'm not positive. It got very low because of the leak. I filled it and pumped the breaks to find the link. Then filled it and had my wife pump the brake so i could confirm that I had found the leak. So my actual question is, will I need to bleed the brakes at all four wheels? The line that ruptured goes to the pass rear wheel. I have decided that I will cut out the bad spot on the second rear brake line to the driver rear, as well because it is very rusty and it looks dangerous so I think it would be wise to repair it while I'm down there anyway.
So, do I need to bleed all the brakes then, or just the rear? By the way, mine has front disk and rear drum brakes. Thanks in advance for any advice.
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Here is the part I'm talking about. The auot parts guy said it is some kind of valve. Is this a drum brakes thing? Do I need to use it or can i bypass it? The way the ends screw into it, they are the opposite of the flare that normally is on break lines so I would have to reuse this or buy a new one. Problem is, I don't see how it'* possible to reuse this because the one side, I can't even get the nut to break lose. Not even with a vice and vise grips. The auot parts guy said this is a dealer only item. Meaning, If I have to replace it, it'* gonna cost me. And the second one really needs replaced too.
Doesn't anyone have any ideas on this? I don't know what it does. If I could by pass it that would be great. But it may be impossible. I'm stuck without my car until i find out about this. Please help.
Doesn't anyone have any ideas on this? I don't know what it does. If I could by pass it that would be great. But it may be impossible. I'm stuck without my car until i find out about this. Please help.
#3
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I know it'* a pain, but bleeding all brake lines is always recommended when you have had the brake system open or worked on.
I think that valve assembly might be a one way check valve. Try blowing air through it from the brake system feed side and then from the brake drum side. If you can't move air from one side, which I suspect is the drum side; then it is a check valve that is used to keep pressure in the line. Sometimes called a pressure metering valve.
Anything that has to do with brakes should never be bypassed. I would replace this assembly as well as the line to and from it.
I think that valve assembly might be a one way check valve. Try blowing air through it from the brake system feed side and then from the brake drum side. If you can't move air from one side, which I suspect is the drum side; then it is a check valve that is used to keep pressure in the line. Sometimes called a pressure metering valve.
Anything that has to do with brakes should never be bypassed. I would replace this assembly as well as the line to and from it.
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Ok, thanks for the advice guys. I don't want to bypass anything. I did find out that the one I have (and assuming the other) I won't be able to reuse because of the fittings that screw in. I couldn't get the one nut to even break loos on it. If I could get it to break loose, I could probably reuse the check valve but I would have to at least buy new fittings. I was told this is all dealer only parts. I can only imagine how much I'll have to spend to buy new ones. The story of my life. haha
yes, I have anti lock breaks.
yes, I have anti lock breaks.
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Try these places first. Auto Parts Fast at RockAuto they have great prices. GM Parts - GM Auto Parts - GM Parts House USA for the harder to find parts.
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Here is the part I'm talking about. The auot parts guy said it is some kind of valve. Is this a drum brakes thing? Do I need to use it or can i bypass it? The way the ends screw into it, they are the opposite of the flare that normally is on break lines so I would have to reuse this or buy a new one. Problem is, I don't see how it'* possible to reuse this because the one side, I can't even get the nut to break lose. Not even with a vice and vise grips. The auot parts guy said this is a dealer only item. Meaning, If I have to replace it, it'* gonna cost me. And the second one really needs replaced too.
Doesn't anyone have any ideas on this? I don't know what it does. If I could by pass it that would be great. But it may be impossible. I'm stuck without my car until i find out about this. Please help.
Doesn't anyone have any ideas on this? I don't know what it does. If I could by pass it that would be great. But it may be impossible. I'm stuck without my car until i find out about this. Please help.
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