I got promoted and look at my sorry A_$.

After fixing all my Powertrain issues, guess what. I think my Air Mix Actuator MIGHT have died. I get HOT, HEAT out of the dash when calling for AC; I'm talking 100+ degree heat; not just lack of cold, like low freon, etc.
Q: On a 93 ECC, does flashing ECC, etc., accompany this problem? I don't have flashing ECC and see where newer models get that. First chance to drive it in over a week after fixing all the other. Suspected it early this a.m. Just noticed for sure at lunch time and could not troubleshoot any at all. . But wife has been complaining.. no wonder.
Air Mix is job security

Not sure if '93 gets the flashing ECC, but I believe '93 allows you to pull your own codes unlike later years. Of course, whether you have a code or not, pull the glove box liner out and look through the hole in the dash brace to see if the actuator arm moves when commanding between hot and cold. If it doesn't or if it binds, pops, sticks, then it is airmix replacement fun for you

Thanks for that reminder. Now I remember Willwren posted instructions for reading ECC codes. Perhaps I can sneak out and yank out the glove box in a few. At least it raised its ugly head before full summer heat gets here.

Just Update: ECC code is "00" "No Codes." I get some of the old "heat at my feet" w/ECC OFF too. I see the writing on the wall.. or is it the dash?
Still trying to see through that little hole on the left side, w/glove box out. Wife "planned my evening," so hope to be back at it tomorrow evening. In the MEANtime I'll just play with these Emoticons.

With no codes, I'd suspect the rod pulled out of the door. Pull that glovebox and take a peek while you adjust the temperature up and down. Does ANYthing move?

Nope.

Change: I guess I need to tear into the actuator. Arrrgggghhhhh.
Any other ideas?

If the actuator didn't move when the temp changed drastically:

1. Good odds it'* the actuator.
2. Slim odds it'* the HVAC programmer.

90% sure it is the actuator,that needs to be replaced, although having not move any bit at all is odd.

I found the problem. A broken wire on the actuator connector... #5, which is one of the two motor power wires. It'* broken right at the pin. Fix that in the morning. Weird thing is that the wires come from the controller box (like in this post)
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...or+calibration, with all the vacuum lines. I had expected them to come (directly) from the programmer. On top of that, they are tiny dinky gauge for what I expected. This is one that uses 5 of 6 pins. Jr'* pix were of considerable help at
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...tuator&start=0

Will update when I'm sure it'* working right and everything. Thanks guys.

Correction on one item. What I called the controller box above, is actually called the "Programmer" in the FSM schematics and shows all the vacuum network, etc.

Okay, I have that little, short harness out that feeds the actuator box. I am trying to get that pin out so I can repair the wire, etc. These are those tiny female pins that have an extra hole above it, I assume for the locking device (tang). I have tried a super magnifying glass, but being it black plastic, it impossible to discern things.
Q :?: Anybody know where I need to go in there to release it?
There is a piece of metal in the hole above the pin, that I assume is the lock. But I have tried the left side of it, right side in different directions and cannot figure this one out. I don't want to go to the salvage yard if I can help it, so am trying to reuse the one that is in there.
Got IT! I'll share the info in a bit.