Replacing Brake Calipers & Hoses Questions
#1
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Replacing Brake Calipers & Hoses Questions
Hi,
Questions are for a 99 SSEi.
One of my calipers is seized (wont retract) so I am replacing both sides calipers, pads, and front brake hoses. I have done brake pad replacement in the past, and other stuff like wheel hub replacement. However I have never replaced calipers and hoses so I have some questions:
thanks very much for any help.
Questions are for a 99 SSEi.
One of my calipers is seized (wont retract) so I am replacing both sides calipers, pads, and front brake hoses. I have done brake pad replacement in the past, and other stuff like wheel hub replacement. However I have never replaced calipers and hoses so I have some questions:
- What size flare nut wrench do I need to buy to loosen the brake hose from the brake line?
- Do I need to bleed all four corners, or just the fronts? (I also bought new wheel cylinders, drums and shoes, but I think I will leave that for another day).
- Will buying a $5 one-man brake bleeder kit be sufficient (No one to help me). Or do I need special procedure to bleed this car'* brakes?
- What are the torque specs for the banjo bolt?
- What is the minimum thickness for the rotor?
- Any other things for me to watch out for?
thanks very much for any help.
#2
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I don't recall the wrench size, but 10mm or 13mm should about right.
The manual says 33 foot pounds for the inlet bolt.
A 1 man bleeder should be fine. Kind of hard to tighten the bleeder and hold the brake down at the same time.
The minimum thickness should be on the rotor. If your feeling any pulsing I suggest just replacing the rotors with new, they only cost about $35
The manual says 33 foot pounds for the inlet bolt.
A 1 man bleeder should be fine. Kind of hard to tighten the bleeder and hold the brake down at the same time.
The minimum thickness should be on the rotor. If your feeling any pulsing I suggest just replacing the rotors with new, they only cost about $35
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Tech 1 tool required for bleeding??
The chilton manual states: " However, for 1994-99 vehicles with ABS, after bleeding the brake system you must perform an "Auto Bleed" sequence, using a Tech 1® or equivalent scan tool. If you do not have access to a suitable scan tool, your vehicle will probably have to be towed to a shop with the proper diagnostic equipment to have the procedure performed."
Since I am replacing the brake hoses at the line connection, will a lot of air enter the lines so that simple one-man bleeding wont be enough, and then I would need to go to the dealer?
(just worried since I live on a hill and I would need brakes to get to the dealer )
Just thinking... Is there a way to trigger the abs without the tool? I know sometimes when I start my car the abs cycles for a sec, but I dont know how often it does it.
Re: rotors, I remembered I replaced the rotors on my last pad change. They should be good.
thanks
#4
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99% of the time you'll never have to bleed the ABS the way mentioned. A one man bleeder tool is all I use.
Personally, I'd do the wheel cylinders at the same time and that way you have fresh brake fluid to all wheels. And I'd consider spending the additional $5 on the self bleeders. They are basically bleeders with a check ball and make self bleeding even easier than the little sucker pump you picked up.
Personally, I'd do the wheel cylinders at the same time and that way you have fresh brake fluid to all wheels. And I'd consider spending the additional $5 on the self bleeders. They are basically bleeders with a check ball and make self bleeding even easier than the little sucker pump you picked up.
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