When the drivers window no longer went up and down, I simply loosened the mounting bolts on the drive motor a little.

The possible explanation might be that wear on the rack and the drive gear eventually creates a "bind" at the end of travel which triggers the "end-of-travel" sensor even in the other direction. Giving the motor a tiny bit of slop seems to solve that.

A year later it still seems okay.

If you found bolts holding the drive motor in, it'* a replacement; the factory pop-rivets the original motors into the doors. Perhaps somebody got something cockeyed when they installed the replacement motor.

Hey, whatever works for you...

Don't think so, guys. The shop manual specifically says "remove 3 nuts".

This is a 94 SSE.

[If that'* what the manual says, then that'* what the manual says, but I can only tell you that I've seen nothing but pop-rivets holding the window motors in, except in cases where I know the motor is a replacement (i.e. I installed it myself in the past, or otherwise know the history of the car). In some cases the replacement motor even comes with its attaching nuts and bolts, which is nice; otherwise I have to go off on a treasure hunt to find some that will fit.

At least removing the rivets is relatively easy; you don't have to grind them off. Use a centerpunch or a dull nail to knock the rivet stem through into the door, then drill out the rivet. (The drill needs only to be the size of the hole, _not_ the size of the rivet head! ) The rivet is aluminum and the drill will go through it like butter. Takes no time at all.

I've seen those situations in the shop manuals and they normally say something like:... drill out rivets and replace with this size bolts.... etc.

Wonder if it could be the particular plant??? This one was built in Flint.

I did buy it 3 years old, but I am pretty certain that it had not been touched. The water shield looked to be original and pristine.