I had recently discovered my PN switch was very loose as a result of a car scan that finally happened. Billboost pointed me at the PN switch. So I read his supplied FAQ for the procedure, but am still having issues.
I don't know exactly what the switch does outside of not allowing in gear starts. When its adjusted one way, it might start to buck in OD 2000rpm up a slight hill. If its moved another way, it might take off well and buck at around 60kmh in drive at 2000 rpm.
Where ever its moved it reacts differently. I can see the slot on the side on the PN switch, and I see another notch on the inner collar of the PN switch. Are these what I'm to line up with one another. If so, what if that was done and it still acts funny?
In bills write up in my other post, the adjustment mark looked to be being pointed at on the neck of the gear selector, but I may be mistaken.
In my Haynes manual, they say that there is an adjustment hole that you can put a drill bit into, and then you move it around till the bit falls into the hole to indicate its in neutral. I cannot find any such hole. I have never 100% removed the PN switch though. I just loosen it, and adjust it. I hope that isn't like, stupid or anything.
I'm just trying to determine if my "bucking" issue is the PN switch, or if I have other problems also.
In the last few days,my RPMs seem to be fluctuating. It idles at about 900 like a rock all the time, but now it starts, runs at 1200, drops to 900, maybe to 700. Then it kinda bops between 700-900.
I have a new tranny filter and all that, and will get at it when i get a moment in the garage, but I'm not thinking that'* much, if any of my problems.

The line on the switch is supposed to be lined up with the dot on the center collar as you mentioned.

From there, you may want to try another switch or consider that something inside the trans may be bad,

Well Bill,
If you were in my spot here what would be your next step? Iv lined up the switch to that inner coller, and it still acts funny. Seems random, But with any adjustment, changes.
My car, the best a can describe is driving like a a manual being driven by a person that uses 2nd instead of 1st to take off etc. It always seems like its working itself too hard.

If it were me, I'd reach up on the shelf and swap that sensor. Then I'd hook up the HPT and scan all the trans parameters looking for the issue.

Since we are at opposite ends of the universe with you being up up up up up there...we need to improvise. I'd suggest taking it into a trans shop and explaining what you are experiencing and try to get a free estimate. This usually helps if you add the premise that they'* most likely be the shop fixing it.

You do have a 95 and while this doesn't quite sound like a flakey pcm, I wouldn't rule it out.

Hmmm that'* about all I can think of at the moment.

HaHaHa,
OK. I didn't realize you were so were so car stacked bro. I thought everyone here was just weekend mechanics lol. Seems you took it to a new level.
How can you diagnose a faulty PN switch? Is there a (weekend mechanic) method, or do you just shrug and do it while hoping for the best. It only starts in appropriate gears, and all the things I assume it should.
I still don't really understand the switch itself, or how it impacts gears. I just barely have a halfassed understanding of the motor now. I just see it able to move independently of the gear selector, and wonder how it makes much difference.
By the sounds of it, I'm sure you have seen a faulty switch. What are the symptoms?
I guess I'm going to a tranny shop in the near future and see if I can beat an answer out of them.
I'm leary of the costs involved tho. I hope it can be checked free, because if its screwed, I am grabbing my tools and heading to a wrecker. A local tranny shop wanted 60$ to adjust that PN switch, which I now know is a 30 second job. I can get at mine cleanly without even having to remove the cruise control or anything. All I needed was like a foot worth of ratchet extensions, a 13mm and 15mm sockets.

Heh, I tried to Google HPT to see what that was, and got links to Home pregnancy tests. I'm going out on a limb here and assuming that'* not what you test a transmission with. (yes, I'm kidding)

HPtuners.com is the link you'd want. It'* a scanning/tuning suite.

I am the average weekend mechanic, nothing more. You can't get a post count this high always being under a car. There is something like 6-8 transmissions in my garage though. That'* because I collected them when doing my first rebuild.

So yeah, I've got 2-3 extra PN switches and could send you one cheaper than they want one. Let'* look into your problem further though. I'll try and read up on what the switch does tonight.

Ok Bill,
The PN switch "hole" the book describes is there. Its not a hole though, more of a notch really that you lay the drill bit into sideways till it pops in. It'* my fault really for not figuring that out sooner. (dur moment).
I also think my tranny isn't the problem at all. I was investigating my fluctuating RPM issue, and had my woman in the car doing crap I asked her to do. When she shut it off, I heard a forced air escaping and or being sucked in sound. Seems like it might be coming from the end of the plenum opposite the MAF.
This would explain the crappiness uphill and other things that could be attributed to a massive vacuum leak! When I bought this new plenum a few months back, I used the MAF gasket that came with it, and it was flawed and in some areas didn't even protrude past the plenum. I replaced it with a good one (Lucky I had 3 lol), but now im concerned that perhaps the plenum gasket I got with it was screwed too. Everything was torqued to spec, in the recommended pattern, but it appears I will be taking the girlfriends car tomorrow, as my car is running worse and worse everyday. I have my old plenum gasket kickin around here. I checked it, and it seems to be in really really good condition (I could just about be convinced it was new if it wasn't a little dirty looking)
I was planning on maybe using that one if I can see a visible problem with the existing gasket. I know it probably isn't ideal, but I don't want to pay for another one, especially if the one I got new was screwed.
Anyone know of a easy way to tell if this is a intake/vacuum leak? I kinda don't really wanna open my car to find out I didn't fix anything. I have read on here about using (correct me if I'm wrong) carb cleaner sprayed where the leak is assumed to be. Is there any reason whatever the fluid is would be a bad plan to spray around my plenum and other things in the vicinity?

I was just out looking at it, getting my face closer to a running car than I should. The weird noise I'm hearing seems to be my I think PCV valve. The side of the plenum by the coil packs.
It sounds like something is in it flying around. Like someone shaking a pill bottle up and down with one pill in it.

Heh, well ladies and gentleman, my problem is resolved at last. It was kind of a bunch of problems leading me down the wrong path. All this culminates to a loose PN switch, and a bad coil! I was poking around, and decided to get back to basics. Glad I did!
Grabbed a spare coil pack from my shed, popped it in, presto.
So now finally, after buying this car in late January, I am anticipating my 1st day of enjoyable driving tomorrow. I'm totally excited to go to work tomorrow. I know that'* messed up but <shrugs> lol
Thanks to everyone who pitched in and helped me with this <little> (Sarcasm) project. Without this site, all would have been lost!
P.* have you checked your coolant levels lately? Ha Ha