The wifes car (in sig) is making an odd grindy noise and vibration only when driving straight. If i turn the wheel even slightly left or right it goes away. How freaking weird is that! I'll be crawling under there in the morning to have a look over. I also just had the tires rotated and balanced before this started.

Jack the front of the car up to get the wheels off the ground. Shake, rattle, and roll them. I bet you'll feel some slop.

My bet is hubs (hub/bearing assembly). Welcome to the world of the Zilla. She needs both fronts.

Both front hubs are under 2 yrs old so I was (fearfully) thinking it might be CV related.

I've no idea whats in the back, bearings?

Ok, the whole front end is up. Both wheels are tight wiggling up & down and in & out from the 12/6 position. I've got a little play when wiggling in & out on the 3/9 position on the right side which is odd since the ball joint, tie rod end and inner are all only two or three years old.

I've never had the whole front end up and the car in gear doing 30 before. I noticed the cv shafts wobble. Is that normal?

Ok the side to side play was the new-ish inner tie rod end. So much for 'Built to last' Duralast..LOL. At least its a lifetime warranty. Its brans new and tight once again. Drivers side is still original and fine after 160kMiles. Maybe they should rename it to Dura-crap

I took apart the front brakes to clean & regrease them. I found some rust flakes had gotten behind the rotor and one of the slide pins had siezed on the passenger side and one slide pin had siezed on the drivers side. I replaced all the slide pins. I did have some build up of pad marterial in the vertical shaft that runs up the middle of the pad; soo for those of you with ceramic pads you might want to clean yours every once in a while.

Went to the back brakes and WOW there was alot of rust & brake dust build up. Cleaned and readjusted them.

Rotated the tires while the car was in the air too.

Took it for a testdrive! Much better now. Just had to play with the alignment because of the new tie rod.

So i think that the vibration was from the not-true rotor due to the rust flakes and the grinding was from the excessive dust in the rears.

So. spending 5 hrs in 95 degree weather, sweating my buns off, and fixing the wifes car for under $15 ($10 for slide pins and $3 for brakekleen) sure gives you the warm fuzzy fellings inside...nah. It doesn't. It was just the heat & humidity.

I was going to say. . . never let "that part is only 2 years old" be a reason to not suspect it. It'* easy to get blinded to the obvious by that!

DuraLAST is actually the LAST part you ever want to put on your car. They are made by the lowest bidder in asia with the lowest bare-minimum quality standards. Their tools are OK, their parts are absolute CRAP.

... now he tells me...

rofl.

About the same time when I put that on I realized how crappy AZ parts were getting. Thier rotors wouldn't even fit without rubbing, there ball joint castle nuts wouldn't tread onto their ball joints. Crap like that. I learned to get trusty parts, like trw, raybestos..., from parts america (if I need it asap) or online.

Had to give up on those types of parts at AZ about 12 years ago, bought brake calipers, they'd been drilled out and retapped larger so that you couldn't thread the brake lines into them. Remanufacturing machine shop in China apparently does that to them. -Makes them kind of useless, y'know?

Still, I go there for other stuff for the bonnie, like liquid glass, Gatorback belts, Energy Suspension endlinks, and the AZ Honda ricepipe, etc. But I don't think I'd buy suspension or brake parts there any more.

Tim...this is unrelated to the other parts of the car that fell off right? (fender I think)