Boost Gauge on 94 Bonneville
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Boost Gauge on 94 Bonneville
I have noticed that the boost gauge on my bonneville ssei hovers at the lowest point when at idle. It'* like -10 psi or somewhere around there. Although, when I floor it, the gauge will go well past 0 and all the way to about 7-8 psi. Is this normal? Or should the boost be at 0 while idling? If it isn't, are there any ways to fix the problem?
Thanks!
Thanks!
#2
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This is normal. Willwren has a post in here that covers that. Us the search function at the top of the page and enter "Boost Guage" in the criteria. It will give all posts that deal with boost guage issues.
But like I said, this is perfectly normal for a 1992-1995 SC engine.
But like I said, this is perfectly normal for a 1992-1995 SC engine.
#3
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Yup. Here'* the thread:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...pic.php?t=1183
And a couple below that is one on the 95 SSEi what boost stock, or something like that. Or you can call me! Log on to my website at www.spicyhotpizzagirls.com and look up my number.
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...pic.php?t=1183
And a couple below that is one on the 95 SSEi what boost stock, or something like that. Or you can call me! Log on to my website at www.spicyhotpizzagirls.com and look up my number.
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boost gauge
I was just asking myself that same exact question last week. The guages look like they are designed to be straight up at normal operation. The -10 boost made me think somethin was wrg.
#5
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If you put a boost gauge on a NA engine, it'll read manifold vacuum. That'* what we read at idle. You go from there up to your max boost. It'* not a linear reading, but the gauge is accurate to what'* happening in the intake. With higher air density during colder weather, both NA and SC intakes benefit from higher input pressures, which are indicated by LESS vauum on the gauge. The really cool thing (no pun intended) is that you start out with a higher pressure (ie: lower vacuum) and then you get to compress it for a higher post-sc pressure. This is why you always feel more power in cold or wet weather. Foggy days are the best, as the moisture in the air decreases the air density at first, then as the water evaporates, and cools the intake the density increses for more efficient operation.
I've actually gone through this quite a bit lately, in several threads. Would anyobdy like to see all these interactions listed in the Techinfo section?
OK....a couple hours later....I just posted a long discourse on how the density is affected by water injection:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=803
I've actually gone through this quite a bit lately, in several threads. Would anyobdy like to see all these interactions listed in the Techinfo section?
OK....a couple hours later....I just posted a long discourse on how the density is affected by water injection:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=803
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my boost only reads 2lbs to 2.5 lbs of boost now is that norm on the car? Putting on new */c on sat old one is real loud. Need a istall print out on r and r of this anyone know where I can find one . I am new to this board
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I actually just put an sc on my car. The 2.5 is not normal. It should be about 8lbs or so. The noise you are hearing is real bad!! The new sc will really help out in performance. Here are the instructions I used when removing my sc. You might also want to check out your throttle body while in the process because mine was real dirty (carbon buildup) Just curious, where did you get your new sc??
1992 Pontiac Bonneville V6-3800 3.8L Supercharged Copyright (c) 1997, ALLDATA
Corp. 1-888-968-3494 C2.00
Supercharger: Service and Repair
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Remove supercharger drive belt.
3. Relieve fuel system pressure
NOTE: J34730-1 Fuel Pressure Gauge or equivalent required.
a. Disconnect the negative battery cable, to avoid fuel pump turn on, if an
accidental attempt is made to start the engine.
b. Loosen the fuel filler cap to relieve tank vapor pressure.
c. Connect the fuel pressure gauge to the pressure connection. Wrap a shop
towel around the fitting while connecting the gauge to avoid spillage.
d. Install bleed hose into an approved container and open the valve to bleed
the system pressure. Fuel connections are now safe for servicing.
e. Drain any fuel remaining in the gauge into an approved container.
4. Remove injector shield.
5. Disconnect fuel supply and return hoses from fuel rail.
6. Disconnect vacuum hose from pressure regulator.
7. Disconnect fuel injector, IAC valve, TPS, MAF sensor, EGR, and boost solenoid
electrical connectors.
8. Remove fuel rail with injectors attached.
9. Disconnect intake air duct.
10. Disconnect EGR pipe from supercharger.
11. Remove throttle and cruise control cables and brackets from throttle body.
12. Remove belt tensioner/bracket assembly from supercharger (stud must be removed
from body of supercharger to allow proper clearance for removal.)
13. Remove supercharger to manifold bolts and carefully lift supercharger from
engine. (Note alignment pins. Do not drop supercharger onto manifold.)
INSTALLATION
1. Clean all mating surfaces thoroughly and insert new gaskets and O-rings. Use no
sealer.
2. Install supercharger, carefully aligned with locating pins.
3. Tighten supercharger to manifold bolts evenly to 26 Nm (19 ft.lbs). Start with
those closest to the center on either side and alternate side to side, working
towards ends.
4. Install remaining components in reverse order of removal.
5. Tighten bolts to torque specifications as listed below.
SUPERCHARGER TO LOWER MANIFOLD
26 Nm (19 ft.lbs)
BOOST CONTROL SOLENOID TO ACTUATOR
30 Nm (22 ft.lbs)
ACTUATOR TO SUPERCHARGER
30 Nm (22 ft.lbs)
FUEL RAIL TO MANIFOLD
15 Nm (11 ft.lbs)
1992 Pontiac Bonneville V6-3800 3.8L Supercharged Copyright (c) 1997, ALLDATA
Corp. 1-888-968-3494 C2.00
Supercharger: Service and Repair
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Remove supercharger drive belt.
3. Relieve fuel system pressure
NOTE: J34730-1 Fuel Pressure Gauge or equivalent required.
a. Disconnect the negative battery cable, to avoid fuel pump turn on, if an
accidental attempt is made to start the engine.
b. Loosen the fuel filler cap to relieve tank vapor pressure.
c. Connect the fuel pressure gauge to the pressure connection. Wrap a shop
towel around the fitting while connecting the gauge to avoid spillage.
d. Install bleed hose into an approved container and open the valve to bleed
the system pressure. Fuel connections are now safe for servicing.
e. Drain any fuel remaining in the gauge into an approved container.
4. Remove injector shield.
5. Disconnect fuel supply and return hoses from fuel rail.
6. Disconnect vacuum hose from pressure regulator.
7. Disconnect fuel injector, IAC valve, TPS, MAF sensor, EGR, and boost solenoid
electrical connectors.
8. Remove fuel rail with injectors attached.
9. Disconnect intake air duct.
10. Disconnect EGR pipe from supercharger.
11. Remove throttle and cruise control cables and brackets from throttle body.
12. Remove belt tensioner/bracket assembly from supercharger (stud must be removed
from body of supercharger to allow proper clearance for removal.)
13. Remove supercharger to manifold bolts and carefully lift supercharger from
engine. (Note alignment pins. Do not drop supercharger onto manifold.)
INSTALLATION
1. Clean all mating surfaces thoroughly and insert new gaskets and O-rings. Use no
sealer.
2. Install supercharger, carefully aligned with locating pins.
3. Tighten supercharger to manifold bolts evenly to 26 Nm (19 ft.lbs). Start with
those closest to the center on either side and alternate side to side, working
towards ends.
4. Install remaining components in reverse order of removal.
5. Tighten bolts to torque specifications as listed below.
SUPERCHARGER TO LOWER MANIFOLD
26 Nm (19 ft.lbs)
BOOST CONTROL SOLENOID TO ACTUATOR
30 Nm (22 ft.lbs)
ACTUATOR TO SUPERCHARGER
30 Nm (22 ft.lbs)
FUEL RAIL TO MANIFOLD
15 Nm (11 ft.lbs)
#8
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thanks for the r and r info on the */c I bought it from superchargers & accessories in CA for 699.00. How well did your superchip work was it worth the money.
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The superchip definately improved the performance of my car. The chip did cost more than the jet stage 2 chip and I am not sure if it works better or not because I have not had any experience with jet. I did like the idea of my chip plugging directly into the computer rather than the port beneath the steering wheel. I noticed alot more pep in my car. I also tested the car out just to make sure it wasnt psychological. But the 0-60 time proved me right. I went from a 0-60 in 6.98 to 6.55. I think that is a tremendous difference. I have yet to test the HP on my car yet.
Does anyone know where I can go to have my car'* exact weight measured? The weight on the side of my car says 4621 but I want the weight of it with everything in the car including me.
Does anyone know where I can go to have my car'* exact weight measured? The weight on the side of my car says 4621 but I want the weight of it with everything in the car including me.
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I will be getting the pulley for the car next week the */c will not be in by this weekend thay sead that they were back orderd on the intake gasket :( Would like to talk to someone about wat to do on this car for upgrades not good at tiping so if thay could e-mail me at nissan69@aol .com with number I will be happy to pay the dime
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