Any one have a write up for this? Tried searching found a dead link to a different site and that was it. I have the service manual, a little confused as to whats involved, I never messed with a door lock assembly before, The book is kind of confusing as to what to do, do you have to take the window out like the book says? Just curious if anyone has more info before I start ripping apart stuff that doesnt need to be. Either a write up or someone who has done this before want to explain a little? You can be as vague or specifiec as you like, I prefer you to be more specific though :P

Is the kit for 2 doors or one, cause it looks like I have a duplicate of every peice in the bag, just wondering. My mother thought it was a bag of legos, lol.

THANKS FOR ANY INFO!!!!

sorry for the n00b question...but what is a door bumper kit?

TSB ripped off of deathrats post, thanks
Basically, my problem is that my power door lock will lock all doors, but wont unlock on the drivers side, lock works manually and with key though. This fixes the problem, just dont know what to do, heh


INOPERATIVE POWER DOOR LOCKS, LOCKS WILL FUNCTION MANUALLY#63-10-41B
REVISION: 11/17/97

SUBJECT: INOPERATIVE POWER DOOR LOCKS, LOCKS WILL FUNCTION MANUALLY (REPLACE EXTERNAL BUMPER ON ACTUATOR ARM).

MODELS: 1991-96 BUICK PARK AVENUE; 1992-97 BUICK LESABRE, SKYLARK; 1995-97 BUICK RIVERIA; 1997 BUICK REGAL; 1992-97 CADILLAC ELDERADO, SEVILLE; 1994-97 CADILLAC DEVILLE, CONCOURS; 1995-97 CHEVROLET LUMINA; 1994-97 CHEVROLET CAMARO; 1995-97 CHEVROLET MONTE CARLO; 1997 CHEVROLET MALIBU, VENTURE; 1991-96 OLDSMOBILE NINETY EIGHT; 1992-97 OLDSMOBILE ACHIEVA, EIGHTY EIGHT, LSS; 1995-97 OLDSMOBILE AURORA; 1997 OLDSMOBILE CUTLAS, REGENCY, SILOUETTE; 1992-97 PONTIAC BONNEVILLE, GRAND AM; 1994-97 PONTIAC FIREBIRD; 1997 PONTIAC GRAND PRIX, TRANS SPORT; 1996-97 CHEVROLET AND GMC “G” MODELS; 1996-97 CHEVROLET AND GMC “*/T” MODELS; 1996-97 OLSDMOBILE BRAVADA.

CONDITION: SOME OWNERS MAY COMMENT ON INOPERATIVE POWER DOOR LOCKS (FRONT AND/OR REAR DOORS). DOOR LOCKS WILL STILL OPERATE MANUALLY.

CAUSE: CONDITION MAY BE CAUSED BY RIPPING OF THE EXTERNAL BUMPER WHICH ALLOWS THE ACTUATOR ARM TO DISENGAGE.

CORRECTION: REPLACE EXTERNAL BUMPER ON ACTUATOR ARM.

IMPORTANT: ON AURORA AND RIVERIA FRONT DOOR LATCHES WITH THEFT DETERRENT, THE LOCK ASSEMBLY MUST BE REPLACED. DO NOT USE THE INSTRUCTIONS BELOW.

1. REMOVE THE DOOR LATCH ASSEMBLY. REFER TO SECTION 10 IN THE SERVICE MANUAL.

2. SEPARATE THE ACTUATOR FROM THE LATCH ASSEMBLY BY REMOVING TWO SCREWS.

3. REPLACE EXTERNAL BUMPER ON ACTUATOR ARM WITH NEW BUMPER SUPPLIED IN SERVICE KIT. {88948572 Door Actuator Bumper Kit (Grp#10587) Pontiac Bonneville Service Kit}

IMPORTANT: THE OLD STYLE BUMPER IS NEUTRAL OR WHITE IN COLOUR AND SHOULD BE REPLACED WITH A NEW BLACK BUMPER. DO NOT ADD ANY LUBRICANT TO THE BUMPER OR BUMPER AREA.

4. INSTALL THE ACTUATOR TO THE LATCH ASSEMBLY.

IMPORTANT: ENSURE THAT THE LOCK SWITCH TEETH ARE PUSHED ALL THE WAY TOWARDS THE ACTUATOR ARM AND THE LATCH IS IN THE FULL OPEN POSITION.

5. REPLACE LOCK ROD CLIPS SUPPLIED IN KIT.

6. REINSTALL LOCK ACTUATOR.

7. INSURE PROPER OPERATION OF LOCKS.

Any one want to chime in??

Check you PM.

Now that I know that a door bumber kit is, maybe I can help. According to the diagram, the latch assembly and power lock actuator are piggy-backed into one larger assembly. The bumper is on the end of the rod from the actuator to the latch. After reading the TSB it seems that this was made from a rubber-like material that breaks.

I have not had to remove either the actuators or the latches in my 93 but typically windows do not have to be removed. You might have to drill out the rivets and take the inner panel off to get your hands/arms in there though.

PM sent. Thanks!

On my 96SE, I replaced the passenger side bumper. It required taking door panel off (obviously), then disconnecting all of the rods that are connected to the assembly. I had to remove the door handle in order to get all of the rods off. If I remember right, there was one for the inside door handle, outside door handle, inside lock lever and outside key lever. There are plastic clips that hold the rods in place. The kit that I got had replacement plastic pieces so I didnt even try to salvage the old ones. There are 3 or 4 bolts holding the lock assembly/actuator in place on the side of the door. I believe they were an allen wrench type head and the entire latch assembly will come out. It was kind of a greasy situation but very simple once you get the damn assemble out of the door. No window removal. That is a terrible description but just wanted to relay that the worst part for me was figuring out how to get all the rods disconnected and remember how they all hook back up. You will want to pay attention to this while disassembling.

I need help getting the actuator out of the door. I have the three torx screws out of the door that hold in the actuator, the door panel removed (thanks FAQ), the outside door handle separated from the two rods, and the outside door handle is removed from the door.

So at this point I have a floating actuator in the door held up by four rods. How do I get the rods off the actuator? It is very tight and 6 inches away from the opening to try and maneauver in there.

Someone have section 10 of the FSM that can describe this for me?

Thanks,

Grease

Ha, section ten of the service manual makes it seems like magical faries pop out and do all the work for you.Its not that hard, just frustrating that your so close and cant get ot out I am currently typing up a Tech article on this since I did it and took pics of what I could if there is interest for it.
What I did, I ended up removing all the rods off the actuator, 2 poped off with relative pressure, the 2 PITA ones I believe were the handle rod and key lock rod. I ended up re-bolting the actuator in there and using a long screwdriver to pry the rods off it, the head of the rods of these 2 are more of a snap fit then the others, so more hard to get off. If I am not clear or need to be more specific, let me know by replying or PMing me. Good luck


Did your kit have 2 bumpers in it? Mine did, only enough rod clips for one door, but enough bumpers for 2? Dont know if that is normal or if I got a bonus

Sounds like one of those "then a miracle occurs" things to get the actuator out of the door.

My bumper kit has two black bumpers, three round small bushings, and four guides. What purplexes me about the guides is that they have round snap-in plugs.

Are these guides used to replace the guides on the door for the two rods? If so, my guides have different fastening dimensions. Or are the guides used inside the actuator itself.

Yes, I am VERY interested in any more write up on this subject. Did you have to take out the big (18" x 24") sheetmetal piece on the door to remove the actuator?

Thanks,

Grease