Oil pressure gage problem
 

http://www.datazap.net/free/beefcak/matt/Int.JPG u can just make it out, it pins its self at 830 kpa the mintue there is more than 1000 rpm an i mean the absolute second the enigne speeds up the slightest, it usually comes up to 230 at idel and at stop lights, any ideas as to whats wrong here??

ohh and also should the boost gage be at 0 at idel or right close to -70?

Damn metric canucks. Crap. Uhhhh.....something is wrong with your oil pressure, but it's probably the sending unit or gauge. It COULD be a restriction in the system.....need more info like when you changed your filter and oil last, does it matter if the engine is under load or not, etc.

As far as the boost goes (metric again) it should read all the way to the left at idle, 0 (straight up) at about 1/2 throttle under load (in gear) and nearly pegged to the right at WOT.

What's yours doing?

Thanks..the odo says 235,500 and the sticker says next change at 237,000 and it has a ugh Fram filter under there, next change im going 10w30 full sythentic and a WIX filter

No matter if its under load or not its aways pinned, sometimes even at idel its pinned. The PO said that it did it for him to no matter what.

the supercharger bounce could jsut be worn bearings

Try testing the oil pressure with a real gauge to see if it really is that way. When mine started reading high it was the pressure sensor on the engine. It's possible also that your instrument cluster has a problem with it.

sseimatt93-

I would NOT recommend going with full synthetic at that mileage unless you would like to start seeping a little oil. True.

i just changed the oil tonight i went cheap lol Valvoline 10 W 30 basic oil, and a new AC Delco filter.

SSEimatt93,

Do that every 3k or so and you'll be just fine.

so if my sending unit is going when i hook up a real gage it will read the same as the old stock gage??

There's nothing "cheap" with that at all, other than the price. I routinely run my cars waaaay over 100,000 miles using exactly what you listed there, and no other miracle crap additives at all. You'll be fine with that.

As for the oil pressure reading, swapping in a mechanical gauge temporarily will enable you to get a "second opinion" to tell you if the original sending unit is going bad, or if you really do have a weird high-pressure problem there.

I wouldn't normally hook up a tester gauge to the existing sending unit.... Actually this may help you decide whether the sending unit or the dash is bad. First I would check to see that I really don't have goofy oil pressures.

Lol synthetic makes you leak oil, how do you figure?

The extra detergent properties of synthetic oils tend to remove the existing varnish or buildup (for lack of a better word) that previous organic oil did not, which tends to open leaks in worn seals that up to that point had not been leaking.

In short, switching to synthetic at an early point in the engine's life may help minimize wear over the long haul, but switching to synthetic much later on will simply enable it to leak out through, and around, the wear that has already taken place.