oil
 

Just a question, let me know what you think, thanks:

My 94 has almost 107K miles. I've had the car for 14 months and have regularly gotten the oil changed every 3 months or less. I've been using the regular Penzoil 10W-30. Is there a better kind of oil I should use? Should I use oil that is special for higher mileage cars? I figure it wouldn't hurt, but I change my oil regularly anyway. Just wondering what anyone else thought. Thanks :)

Many members rely on Mobil 1 or other synthetics. I prefer Valvaline synthetics or blends. Most of this is just personal preference. The key is to change it every 3,000 Mi or thee months--whichever is first.

As for the mileage of your car, 107k isn't that old for these engines as they are build with low friction parts such as roller rockers, thinner rings, roller lifters, etc. If you are concerned, however, it wouldn't hurt to start using Maxlife or some other oil specifically designed for 'older' engines. Anything you can do to reduce wear on your internals will help keep your baby running 250K++.

Hope this helps out.

BTW, you may hear people bashing Penzoil. I have never used it so I cannot say with any certainty whether it is good or bad, however, it must meet federal standards just as all motor oils must. I would certainly stay away from recycled motor oil (save that for your lawn mower if you are buying it), otherwise I think you are going to find the minimum federal standards and up in oil quality. I try to stay with companies that have a good reputation.

I'll bash penzoil! You like your car, I can tell, so don't put the cheapest stuff in it that you can find. Penzoil is the bottom of the barrel, so to speak. I use valvoline synthetic blend, cuz the pure synthetics are a bit spendy. Like SESC said, it's personal preference. Just stay away from the low-end stuff.

Hey fellas!
I've got 175+ on my bonnie and have been using Castrol GTX 10W30 for about two years. Just wondering where that brand stands on your list from good to bad. Personally I've had good luck with it but I'm going to change my oil this weekend, and was wondering if 175+ is a good time to spend the money on synthetic oil made for higher mileage cars. SSOOO, my question is, if you guys had to choose between staying with Castrol (if it aint broke don't fix it), or go to a more specialized blend, what would you do :?:

I don't recomend synthetic , is says in the owners manuel not to use it ! Go for the higher milage oil!

Ok, now, let's see if there is any back up proof for all the Pennz not oil bashing going on around here. Since I am one of the old farts around here, I must say that I have been using Pennzoil and good filters(your choice) for the last 15 years or so, in everything from Nissan, Honda, GM (various). I have had some other things go wrong with all these fine engineered automobiles, but NEVER have I had a oil related problem. I just wanted to add my opinion (we know what they say about those) and see if anyone had data for all this bashing going on, if not, you just keep over paying for your synthetics and I'll keep my extra $$ in the bank........................ :roll:

I do recomend a certain additive ! It's called Z-MAX . In my days in aviation studies I learned of a liquid called lyncyte or something like that I don't remember but I do know that Z-MAX has it . It only has maybe 3% but it's the only one that contains it . We used 100% to treat the plane engines after 3000 hours of service . It restore the metals strenth and it's not publisized by any one cause if you had a never breaking engine ther would not be any car sales or other additives . If you can find this liquid in it's 100% form you would have to do an engine over haul But I bet your cylinders would last forever > But I think it's a fed offense to buy it in 100% form the most cibilian can buy is 3%

Ok, MR.3800 :lol: , I will do a little test for you. I have noticed the the oil gets pretty black in my B'ville, but not so bad in my Accord. I just thought it was the difference between the cars. I will try the Halvoline in my next oil change to see if it does not get as dark as the Pennzoil. Have you ever ran anything like a motor flush through your engines. My father in law swears he will run kerosene thru his after they turn 100,000 to flush out any gunk inside the motor. He swears it helps..........like you I prefer to run the Gm Delco filter in my B'ville and the Honda filter in my Accord...........no rice jokes OK?

thanks, Dylansdad

Dylansdad,

You should run an engine flush through your car before changing to another brand. If the oils have brand specific additives, they may react with the new oil's additives and produce sludge. I don't recommend doing many engine flushes as the additive they use to "flush" is meant to break down the oil and deposits within your engine. This produces wear. But once won't hurt too bad. This will also give you a better "test" as the sludge from the old oil won't darken your Havoline.

Kerosene? I wouldn't do it. It may be the same thing they sell in the "Flushes", but why take a chance. Go with a marketed product made specifically for that application.

I, too, have had good experiences with Havoline. I use that in my Lincoln and Valvoline in my Pontiac. Both are very good oils.

I never tried the STP engine flush, but I did try the STP complete fuel system cleaner, and got 40-45 more miles to the tank!! I couldn't believe it. I did it a few months after I bought it because I figured the person who had it before me didn't take the best care of it. It helped a lot, though I still only get usually 265-70 miles a tank. Does that sound bad to anyone else, because it sounds bad to me. My friend has a 94 SE and he gets about 340 miles to the tank. Mine has to do with my stop and go driving/commute to college/work, but I'm due for another STP fuel system cleaner in 100 miles, and will change my oil (maybe with Valvoline, due to a lot of replies) at the same time and see if I get any improvement.

Just thought I would add my $.02 about Penzoil...

Several years ago, I had an '87 Pontiac 6000, 3.1 engine. Bought it new... In general, it was a good enough car... not great, but good. I was using Penzoil 10w30, changing oil every 3000 miles.

Along about 70k miles, I started noticing traces of oil on the air filter. Hmmm, where was that coming from? I changed the air filter frequently... kept getting worse. I checked the PCV valve... ooops, very oily. I finally pulled the front valve cover. Much to my disgust... everything under there was completely sludged up. So much sludge that, the oil return in the head down to the block was partially blocked, and oil was pooling on top of the head. It took a complete top end rebuild to clean up the sludge.... and I still had doubts about the short block. I had to ditch that car, while I could..

My advise... NEVER use Penzoil. I have used Castrol ever since... no problems.

-Roger

mileage, etc
 

Thanks jr's3800
I'll try that, and probably switch oils. Except I don't do it myself, so I'll have to figure out how to get them to put in a different type. Would I have to clean out anything in the engine before switching from Penzoil to Havoline or Castrol? Also, you said something about swithcing off a negative cable...and turning off the theftlock. You reminded me of a problem I've been having: I enabled the theftlock maybe 10 months ago, and I know the code. But I actually tried to turn it off a couple months ago, and it wouldn't work. I followed the directions in the manual EXACTLY, but when I press 1 and 4 together, it's supposed to allow you to turn it off, but it never has worked! Do you have any idea what to do about that?? I know that question doesn't belong here, but you just reminded me of it and I didn't want to forget it this time. Thanks for the advice. I think I'll change the O2 sensor too. A couple other people have actually told me to do that. They're not expensive, right, including labor??

radio
 

With these theftlock radios, if you lose power but know the code, the radio will still work once you get power back, right? Is there something about them where it won't work if you don't know the code? Anyway, I'm going to post a new topic in Mech. and see what others think about these radios. I tried to enter the code to disable it but I'm supposed to hold down 1 and 4 together until --- appears, then press the code, but --- NEVER APPEARS!! I tried it on my friend's 94SE to see if I could disable his, and --- appeared in 5 seconds. I waited one minute for mine and it didn't work. I guess it's not too big a deal. Thanks. Later 8)

The theftlock is used to deter people form stealing your radio. The way it works is that once the power sourse has been disconnected form the radio, the radio will not work until the code is entered in. A thief presumably won't know your code, so the radio is worthless to him (unless he sells it to some schmuck who isn't familiar with theftlock).

A power disconnect can occure whenever the radio is unpluged or the battery is disconnected. It may also occur if the battery is fully discharged. It is therefore very important to know before hand whether your theftlock is functioning properly before any work on your car is performed that requires the battery to be disconnected. It won't be any fun if you can't get your radio to accept your code!

Good luck.

Ok, so since I just picked up my Bonnie 2 weeks ago, I haven't yet had to change the oil (obviously) since the shop did all that for me. They've got Valvoline 10W30 running in there, but I will most likely be switching to synthetic (Mobil 1) once it's due at 47,500....so do I really need to flush out the engine if I switch to synthetic? I'm pretty religious about my 3,000 mile oil changes.
Keep in mind I have no idea what they put in for oil previously....

Since you don't know how the car was driven/taken care of by the previous owner, and since you are changing to another brand, I would recommend the flush. Once you do the flush and make the change to the oil you will be using in all future changes, you should not have to worry about flushing the engine again. What you are doing in flushing the engine this next oil change is "erasing" as much damaging sludge caused by possible misstreatment and oil mixing as you can. This will "wash" away a little more of the past owners filth, much like when the car is detailed at the dealer before a sale--or when one removes the back seat, trunk carpet, floor mats, etc to clean out any filth/change/papers/etc that was missed by the detailers (I have done this and found the remains of whole bowls of cerial that was spilled in the back seat by children, paperclips, fig newtons, straws, french fries, cancelled checks, money, etc, etc.) Unlike these visible traces of prior ownership, the engine has invisible traces. What you are doing is safeguarding against the unknown.

How much $$$ should an engine flush run? I can't imagine TOO much.
Thanks for the tip, BTW 8)

Do yourself a favor and do your own flush. You should be able to purchase the flush product for less than $5 (haven't done one for a while so price may be off slightly). Follow the directions on the can. It should read something like:

Remove Oil filler cap
Add *Gunk, STP, whatever brand name you have* to engine crankcase (through the Oil filler hole
Replace oil filler cap
Start and run engine for five minutes (Time may vary)
Shut off engine
Drain Oil
Replace Oil filter
Replace oil drain plug
Add five quarts of oil to crankcase (through oil filler hole)
start car and check for leaks.

If you go to a quick lube place, they will probably charge you $25-$35 plus and oil change. A lot of people are getting away from changing their own oil. But you will save yourself a lot of money over the course of a year if you do your own.

I hope this helped out.

I recommend Valvoline Max Life 5W-30 if you have high mileage and a K&N oil filter. Use those on my 1989 and expect to get a long life outta that motor. 169k right now

My Pontiac service manager recommend Mobile 1 Syntec so that's what I use.