No power under 1/2 or more throttle: - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Reply
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-26-2005, 10:14 AM   #1
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Jonesburg, MO USA
Posts: 79
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
corder13 is on a distinguished road
Default No power under 1/2 or more throttle:

I don't drive the car very much, but I was taking my father-in-law to work today and went to merge on the highway at around 1/2 to 3/4 throttle and it actually drug the car down. It hasn't done this before (to me, anyway). At the longest, it could only have been happening for about a week (since the last time I drove it). Anyone know what'* going on? Crank sensor, jumped time, something? I don't have a code-reader, and can't afford one right now. If that'* what I'm going to need to figure this out, is there anyone pretty close that can stop by and help me run these codes and try to diagnose this problem? I don't know crap about GM vehicles. Thanks.

Rick
corder13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2005, 11:29 AM   #2
Senior Member
True Car Nut
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Ames, Iowa
Posts: 3,066
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
bill buttermore is on a distinguished road
Default

Hi Rick,

It could be that the engine is not getting sufficient fuel when it needs it. Does is bog down consistently under load? Could be a plugged fuel filter, bad gasoline, or a weak fuel pump. Could be a bad throttle position sensor (should have set a code). Could be retarded spark from mechanical noise, ignition module, coil, bad plugs or wires.

Unless you have done them recently, you might want to start with plugs, wires and fuel filter, as these should be changed periodically anyway. A fuel pressure test will give an indication of a failing fuel pump.

If anything is bad enough to have set a code, you should have a check engine light. If so, there are a lot of auto parts stores that will either loan you a code reader or pull the codes for you.

If a code has not been set, what you need is a scan tool to observe the various components while the problem is occurring. These are really expensive and usually come with expensive mechanics.

Others here will probably have additional (and maybe better) ideas. Let us know what you find out.
bill buttermore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2005, 11:40 AM   #3
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Jonesburg, MO USA
Posts: 79
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
corder13 is on a distinguished road
Default

Bill,

Thanks for the reply. From what I know, the plugs were done right before I got the car. We've probably put about 7 or 8,000 miles on it since then. I just woke up shortly before I posted this, so I wasn't thinking about simple stuff. It happened so suddenly, though, so I'm doubting it is the plugs or wires. However, the fuel filter wouldn't surprise me. My wife just had the car filled up yesterday, so I'll find out where she filled it up at. She might have gotten bad gas. I'll try throwing a bottle or two of Heet in it to see if that helps the problem. If that doesn't take care of it, I'll pull the fuel filter and check the plugs to see what'* up. I'm not sure how much was done other than the plugs and wires before I got it, so I may just have to do a full tune-up on it. :( Hard to do with no money. If none of that works, I may just sell the Bonne and get a Ford. Nothing personal against the Bonne. I love the car, but I don't know anything about GM, and I grew up working on Fords. :( I've just put a bunch of money in it, and can't afford to keep doing it all the time right now with a third child on the way and me being the only one working right now.

Rick
corder13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2005, 03:43 PM   #4
Senior Member
True Car Nut
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Ames, Iowa
Posts: 3,066
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
bill buttermore is on a distinguished road
Default

Yeah, life is funny. I just finished reconditioning a Ford truck that I now have for sale. You want to sell your GM, I want to sell my Ford. I think we just get used to working on the products from one company and the familiarity makes it easier to get things fixed. I've had all sorts of cars over the years and I have come to believe the 3800 engine is one of the world'* best.

I know about the no money thing too. But, life is less interesting and rewarding when we can afford to buy our way out of everyday challenges. It'* really fun to figure it out on your own and fix it cheap.

Maybe you will luck out and find it was just some bad gas or the filter. Just a few bucks either way. And the filter is a pretty easy job. I just changed the filter on my '95 SLE and with a pair of nitrile gloves on, never got one drop of gasoline on me! I think the new one was $11 at WalMart.
bill buttermore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2005, 04:18 PM   #5
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Jonesburg, MO USA
Posts: 79
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
corder13 is on a distinguished road
Default

Are there any special tools involved with the fuel filter, or is it just as simple as using a screwdriver to pop a clip off?

Rick
corder13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2005, 07:24 PM   #6
Senior Member
True Car Nut
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Ames, Iowa
Posts: 3,066
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
bill buttermore is on a distinguished road
Default

Well, if your '94 is like my '95, you unscrew the cap on the fuel rail and press in the shrader valve covered with a rag to relieve the pressure in the fuel line. Then jack and block the car up at the passenger rear wheel. The filter is right in front of the wheel on the inside of the body rail. I put an oil drain pan under the filter and blew the quick disconnect on the rear clean with compressed air, twisting it a 1/4 turn. Then with the appropriate flare wrenches, broke loose the front fitting. Let the gas drain, undo the front fitting, undo the clip on the rear and slide it off. Reverse to install. The front nut is low torque - only about 11 ft-lb.
bill buttermore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2005, 07:40 PM   #7
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Jonesburg, MO USA
Posts: 79
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
corder13 is on a distinguished road
Default

I just went out and put some heet in the car, along with some octane boost to clear things up. I drove it about 2 miles to get it worked in. I got back to the driveway and put it in park, then held the gas to the floor, it stopped around 2000 rpm. I then gave it about 3/4 throttle (maybe a little less) and it very slowly climbed to about 4300 rpm and immediately dropped to around 35-3700 rpm. It yo-yoed between those two rpm levels and it sounded like a "puff" came from the engine each time it hit 4300 and started to drop. A guy stopped by today and mentioned the MAF sensor. Could that be it? Or is there something wrong with the motor (in specific, the "puffing" sound)?

Rick
corder13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2005, 11:14 PM   #8
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Jonesburg, MO USA
Posts: 79
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
corder13 is on a distinguished road
Default

Decided to put the thing up for sale.

Rick
corder13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2005, 11:51 PM   #9
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS

Expert Gearhead
 
BillBoost37's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Enfield, CT
Posts: 41,391
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
BillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of light
Default

I'd drive it for at least 15-20 miles to get the heeted gas into the fuel lines and to the injectors. Beat it up a bit and it'll either start acting right or stay the same.

Once took about 100 miles for a car to get the water out of the lines...gotta burn off what is in the lines...and it'* more than you think.
BillBoost37 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2005, 12:43 AM   #10
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Jonesburg, MO USA
Posts: 79
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
corder13 is on a distinguished road
Default

I do still need to sell it, though. It did run better later. I took it to the car wash and sprayed it down. I let it run the entire time, too. By the time I headed back, it wasn't dragging down at WOT anymore, but it was still a little sluggish. It might be correcting itself now. I'll take it for a drive tomorrow for about 20 miles at least, then I'll see how it'* doing. I just need to get something bigger anyway.

Rick
corder13 is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
2000 ssei noise under full throttle s/c side jezze 2000-2005 8 11-08-2011 10:27 AM
Tranny Shudders under partial throttle Company 2000-2005 12 07-28-2009 12:37 AM
FWI exposes TICKING noise under light throttle Hans Performance, Brainstorming & Tuning 15 08-31-2007 08:55 PM
Misfire problems only under heavy throttle 98SSE 1992-1999 4 07-07-2005 12:17 AM
Throttle Body and Throttle body spacer! DeeGee96SE Performance, Brainstorming & Tuning 5 06-29-2004 01:21 AM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:34 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.