'98 Codes Thrown/Evap Can/Fuel Leak
#1
Senior Member
Posts like a Turbo
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Brockport, New York
Posts: 271
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
'98 Codes Thrown/Evap Can/Fuel Leak
Well I borrowed a code reader today and tested my new 98 SE. First I got a 440 which is the EVAP system fault. I will check into that a little later.
I also got a 301 - cylinder 1 misfire.
The engine does hesitate to start a little, so I went in and took off the first spark plug wire to test it and found rust on the coil (I think that'* the right name for it... I just got home from college and my brain hurts ). All of the spark plug wires appear brand new, so I'm assuming they've already been replaced. I'm probably going to have to replace the coil though, correct? If so, could I head over to the salvage yard and find one that works, or am I better off buying a new one?
Also, as a side note for those who were asking... I noticed that the date on my UIM says it was manufactured in 2003. My car is a 98, so it must have failed and been replaced before I bought it. I'm still going to take off the TB anyways just to see what it looks like in there.
I also got a 301 - cylinder 1 misfire.
The engine does hesitate to start a little, so I went in and took off the first spark plug wire to test it and found rust on the coil (I think that'* the right name for it... I just got home from college and my brain hurts ). All of the spark plug wires appear brand new, so I'm assuming they've already been replaced. I'm probably going to have to replace the coil though, correct? If so, could I head over to the salvage yard and find one that works, or am I better off buying a new one?
Also, as a side note for those who were asking... I noticed that the date on my UIM says it was manufactured in 2003. My car is a 98, so it must have failed and been replaced before I bought it. I'm still going to take off the TB anyways just to see what it looks like in there.
#2
Retired Senior Admin
Expert Gearhead
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sheboygan Wisconsin
Posts: 29,661
Likes: 0
Received 28 Likes
on
24 Posts
The EVAP code could be a vacuum leak, those lines are brittle. Or could be the purge valve, both are easy to fix.
Test the coil to see if it'* bad, you might only need to clean the post.
Test the coil to see if it'* bad, you might only need to clean the post.
#3
Retired
Doesn't hurt to take a peek!!
I wouldn't judge the wires just by looks. Only takes a few seconds to test each wire with a multi-meter.
I wouldn't judge the wires just by looks. Only takes a few seconds to test each wire with a multi-meter.
__________________
Retired Administrator
2002 *-10 5.7 V8
2023 Jeep Rubicon Diesel
Retired Administrator
2002 *-10 5.7 V8
2023 Jeep Rubicon Diesel
#4
Senior Member
Posts like a Turbo
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Brockport, New York
Posts: 271
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just tested the coil, it'* fine. I used a wire brush to clean it off a little. I tested the #1 spark plug wire, or tried to... i couldn't get a reading from it. The rest of the wires tested good. Does that mean the wire is bad? And what would cause just one wire to go bad like that?
#6
Also, as a side note for those who were asking... I noticed that the date on my UIM says it was manufactured in 2003. My car is a 98, so it must have failed and been replaced before I bought it. I'm still going to take off the TB anyways just to see what it looks like in there.
Make sure you check it. Mine was stamped with a 2005 date code on my 98, so I knew it was done before i got it....well guess what? Yesterday the EGR tube finally melted the UIM enough and dumped a ton of coolant into the intake, thankfully I seemed to have gotten it shut down in time to avoid any damage. My 2005 intake lasted approx 100k.
#7
Senior Member
Posts like a Turbo
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Brockport, New York
Posts: 271
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I got a new spark plug wire and I think I fixed that problem.
However, when I start the car I get a strong smell of fuel inside the car and in the engine bay. I found a wet spot on a fuel line behind the UIM, and I think I have a leak there. If I touch it at all, more fuel comes out. I decided to leave it alone until I asked about it.
What is this connector thing, and what do I do to stop the leaking? Is there any chance that this is the source of my 440 code?
However, when I start the car I get a strong smell of fuel inside the car and in the engine bay. I found a wet spot on a fuel line behind the UIM, and I think I have a leak there. If I touch it at all, more fuel comes out. I decided to leave it alone until I asked about it.
What is this connector thing, and what do I do to stop the leaking? Is there any chance that this is the source of my 440 code?
#8
Retired Senior Admin
Expert Gearhead
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sheboygan Wisconsin
Posts: 29,661
Likes: 0
Received 28 Likes
on
24 Posts
Pull the fuel pump fuse and crank, that will remove the fuel pressure. Then recheck the connections. You do not want any fuel leaks, that'* a fire waiting to happen.
#9
Senior Member
Posts like a Turbo
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Brockport, New York
Posts: 271
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here'* the EVAP can. All vacuum lines are good. I found some liquid fuel at the connection coming from the gas tank. I'm told there is a filter inside the canister that may be clogged, but I can't figure out how to get at it. Any ideas?
I inspected the gas cap area closer today and it looks as though the plastic ring/cuff that the gas cap makes contact with is broken. Is this easily repairable?
I inspected the gas cap area closer today and it looks as though the plastic ring/cuff that the gas cap makes contact with is broken. Is this easily repairable?
#10
Senior Member
Posts like a Turbo
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Brockport, New York
Posts: 271
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I will need to replace my whole filler neck. I think it is the main cause of my EVAP problem.
I'm planning on looking at the junk yard for a replacement. My dad suggested using one of the older style "screw-in" filler necks, like I had in my '95. Would his idea work or should I get the same kind of filler neck I have now?
I'm planning on looking at the junk yard for a replacement. My dad suggested using one of the older style "screw-in" filler necks, like I had in my '95. Would his idea work or should I get the same kind of filler neck I have now?