Arrrggg Brake problems already.
09-02-2007, 07:42 PM
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Arrrggg Brake problems already.
I bought this car in the begining of June and they said they changed the front brakes and fixed a leaking rear seal in the rear. (I think they lied to me. 
if not, I need to figure out why my brakes only lasted a little over 4000 miles)
Well, on the way to Chicago(500mile drive one way) the brakes started the metal on metal grinding when we were slowing for a tollbooth.(30min away from my parents)
Anyway... got it checked out at the place my parents always go, and they tell us that the pad on the front pass. side was worn all the way down to nothing and tore up the rotor. They said $300
to change both rotors and pads.
I told my parents no way I'll change it myself, but they insisted that they pay and get it done there so I could have a car the next day. So now I have new rotors and pads that were overpaid for by atleast $150
if not, I need to figure out why my brakes only lasted a little over 4000 miles)Well, on the way to Chicago(500mile drive one way) the brakes started the metal on metal grinding when we were slowing for a tollbooth.(30min away from my parents)
Anyway... got it checked out at the place my parents always go, and they tell us that the pad on the front pass. side was worn all the way down to nothing and tore up the rotor. They said $300
to change both rotors and pads.I told my parents no way I'll change it myself, but they insisted that they pay and get it done there so I could have a car the next day. So now I have new rotors and pads that were overpaid for by atleast $150
09-02-2007, 09:25 PM
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Did you have a chance to look at the old pads? If the caliper slides weren't sliding well, it might have worn one pad down fast, while the other was barely worn.
It'* changed now, of course, but if that was the problem it could happen again. Unless the mechanic fixed it. I have a strong distrust of mechanics though.
I guess if it were mine, I'd take it back apart and make sure that all is well up there.
It'* changed now, of course, but if that was the problem it could happen again. Unless the mechanic fixed it. I have a strong distrust of mechanics though.
I guess if it were mine, I'd take it back apart and make sure that all is well up there.
09-03-2007, 12:40 PM
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Were the rear brakes checked? The rear brake linings should be in good shape, and wearing well. The drums should be checked also. The adjusters should be working. How was the adjustment on the rear brakes? They should be just dragging.
Proper working rear brakes will give a good brake feel, and will give long life to the front brakes.
When a brake job is done, it should be done properly. The calipers checked for cracks, torn boots or leaks. All contact areas clean of rust and smooth. The proper lubes used, and the sliding pins cleaned and lubed with dielectric grease. The rotors should always be machined or replaced whenever replacing pads, and good quality pads used.
Another thing are the brake hoses and brake fluid condition. If the fluid is dark or contaminated, its probably a good idea to have the fluid flushed. The brake hoses should be checked for cracks, and metal swelling arounds the metal collar where it is secured on the front. That metal rusts inside and can clamp off the hose, which can wear the pads on one side. Have them checked too.
There are lot of things to check in a brake system to ensure you get good safe brakes.
Proper working rear brakes will give a good brake feel, and will give long life to the front brakes.
When a brake job is done, it should be done properly. The calipers checked for cracks, torn boots or leaks. All contact areas clean of rust and smooth. The proper lubes used, and the sliding pins cleaned and lubed with dielectric grease. The rotors should always be machined or replaced whenever replacing pads, and good quality pads used.
Another thing are the brake hoses and brake fluid condition. If the fluid is dark or contaminated, its probably a good idea to have the fluid flushed. The brake hoses should be checked for cracks, and metal swelling arounds the metal collar where it is secured on the front. That metal rusts inside and can clamp off the hose, which can wear the pads on one side. Have them checked too.
There are lot of things to check in a brake system to ensure you get good safe brakes.
09-03-2007, 01:48 PM
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holy heck, you paid $300 damn bucks for a brake job?!?! Holy hell, you coulda done it with the best high quality brakes off the shelf for about $150 and been done in under an hour. front brakes have to be one of THE easiest things to replace on pretty much any car. thats freakin highway robbery!
now. getting down to the whole new/not new brake thing. its possible they might have been dragging up front. did you ever smell burning brakes when driving? otherwise they just didn't put any on. if i were you, i'd love to see the reciepts from them replacing them before listening to anything anyone says. especially a dealer.
Holy hell, you coulda done it with the best high quality brakes off the shelf for about $150 and been done in under an hour. front brakes have to be one of THE easiest things to replace on pretty much any car. thats freakin highway robbery!now. getting down to the whole new/not new brake thing. its possible they might have been dragging up front. did you ever smell burning brakes when driving? otherwise they just didn't put any on. if i were you, i'd love to see the reciepts from them replacing them before listening to anything anyone says. especially a dealer.
09-03-2007, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by wjcollier07
holy heck, you paid $300 damn bucks for a brake job?!?! Holy H***, you coulda done it with the best high quality brakes off the shelf for about $150 and been done in under an hour. front brakes have to be one of THE easiest things to replace on pretty much any car. thats freakin highway robbery!
Holy H***, you coulda done it with the best high quality brakes off the shelf for about $150 and been done in under an hour. front brakes have to be one of THE easiest things to replace on pretty much any car. thats freakin highway robbery!$60 each for rotors... + $70 for pads... so... $190... and thats not even the best
$300 sounds about right to me for having someone do it. 2 hours in labor if somethings being a PITA... so thats ~$150... + Parts.
its high.. but iv seem a lot worse....
09-03-2007, 02:19 PM
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HOLY HECK. Nevermind on that! Just researched Bendix rotors and pads and holy heck, the total would be $250! I didn't realize how much more the 99 brakes were in comparison to earlier rotors. :? So yeah, if he was using GOOD quality bendix parts, which would be very rare, then yes, thats worth the price with labor. But other rotors are only about $25/piece for the OEs so if he did it with cheap oe parts, 25 + 25 + 30 = $80...still way more than you could pay if you did it yourself :P Point proven.
I didn't realize how much more the 99 brakes were in comparison to earlier rotors. :? So yeah, if he was using GOOD quality bendix parts, which would be very rare, then yes, thats worth the price with labor. But other rotors are only about $25/piece for the OEs so if he did it with cheap oe parts, 25 + 25 + 30 = $80...still way more than you could pay if you did it yourself :P Point proven.
