I have the nastiest metal-on-metal rattling coming from the parcel shelf when I accellerate slowly from a stop. I can't figure it out. I thought it might be the speakers, which are aftermarket Boston Acoustic 6 x 9'*, and I see my autosound installers simply drove drywall screws directly into the sheet metal. (Side Question: Is there a better way to mount them?) I made sure the screws are tight, and the problem didn't change at all. I pulled off the factory grilles and rode in the back while my wife drove, and I can't figure out where the rattling is coming from. It'* on both sides, so it might be the speakers. To rule them in or out, I'm going to temporarily remove the speakers just to see if the problem goes away or is affected. But it'* driving me nutz. I see the trunk lid springrods have a rubber sheathing to keep them from rattling on things, so I don't think it'* them. Has anybody had this problem? I'm tempted to remove all the trim and padding and have my autosound installer blanket the thing in anti-resonant matting. -And what'* the black gooey thing in there that I can access in the middle from the trunk? Mmmmmm. Goo.

humm what about bumps or turns or brake. I don't see how accelrate should casue nosie in the from that area espcailly that type nosie. Have you looked underneath that car I had stablize link come off in the bacl that made some nasty sound like you are describe.

It'* definitely the parcel shelf. I can feel drivetrain vibrations with my hand on it (through the speaker opening after removing a grille) and they're just right to cause a sort of metallic jingling in the parcel shelf when accellerating slowly. Yes, it happens other times occasionally, as well, but mostly repeatable with a slow take-off from a standing start. It'* driving me bats. It very well may be the speakers, I'm not certain, but I'll nail that down by removing them temporarily. Does anyone have instructions for removing the trim from the parcel shelf? And what is the black sticky goo-covered thing under the parcel shelf, accessed via a cutout in the middle of the shelf from within the trunk???

you have to take out the rear seat out to get to the rear deck

the back....... just lift up from the back of the seat and then push backward

for the seat back remove the 19mm bolts and then Lift up

the rear deck just slides out after removing ther push pins

Okay, so I took the thing apart. Thanks for the info on the seats. They came out relatively easy, there were also two push-fasteners holding the interior trunk trim to the seat back. It appears that my rattling is the center brake light. This whole area of the rear deck is the weakest area and the entire center brake light assembly is pretty floppy. I expect I'll take it apart and add some thin foam weatherstripping to keep it from rattling about. But I also think I'll probably sandwich the entire rear deck with Dynomat or similar anti-resonance material, before replacing my speakers and reassembling everything.

I am still curious about these sticky-gooey pads all over the rear deck. There'* a big one around the center brake light, and one in each corner, one in the middle of the seat back, and one at each end of the seat back which have sort of melted and fallen in. I took some pics, I've indicated intact sticky pads with green arrows, and the melted/fallen ones with red arrows. I'm a little concerned by them, it'* going to make an awful mess if I try to remove the one around the center brake light to try to quiet the thing down. That was probably its purpose to begin with. Do these pads serve any other purpose? Am I losing anything with the two of mine that are melted and fallen? Should I replace them? Is there anything that will clean off that sticky goo?






And finally: My car didn't originally come with rear speakers, and my installers just put drywall screws into the rear deck. Is there some sort of mounting bracket that our Bonnies normally come with, and can I get them aftermarket or are they dealer only?

go to any boneyard and get some adapters

as the the thrid brake light, there are 2 10mm bolts that hold it down underneath the goooey tar....try and tighten the bolts ans see if that helps

on our old 92 SE that we used to have, the third brake light itself was rubbing up against the back windsheild. During bumps the gap was just enough that it would rattle against the back window and sounded like how you describe.

Update: I definitely had the third brake light vibrating against the back window. I got a roll of 3/4" wide high density foam rubber weatherstripping and ran a length of it around the brake light, and it no longer vibrates. But I'm not going to stop there, I got two rolls of Dynamat and I'm going to Dynamat the entire parcel shelf. I removed the tar-paper patches that had fallen, and I removed the piece around the third brake light. I'll use Dynamat to replace any removed sections. While I had the brake light out I cleaned the back window where the light goes. I'm also not too pleased with how my audio installers ran my stereo wires, so I'm re-running those and using split-loom tubing to keep everything neat. And I'll probably have to get some 6x9 speaker spacers from my dealer. I definitely want to make everything "right" while I have everything apart. I'll keep you guys posted, thanks for the tips.

For the life of me I don't know why they use those tar paper seals, they're horribly messy. I notice that the two that collapsed are access holes to the rear strut towers. Maybe they use them to access the bolts, but you'd figure they could come up with an access panel better than a piece of tar paper.

those pieces of tar paper probably act to absorb vibration like sound deadener does. They probablyf igured a few small patches in stragetically placed spots would be good enough to eliminate the rattling. They could also be placed in areas where there would be high-friction. (like where the rear deck would rub against the metal 'deck' under it. They're probably to serve as sound deadener while being lightweight at the same time.

I know that the tar paper over the third brake light covers the actual light. If it wasn't there, at night when you hit the brakes, red light would seep into the interior, when I fiberglassed my rear deck, I didn't replace the tar paper. It was a PITA taking the deck back out, I ended up having to carpet my third brake light as well. When my back windshield was flexing (almost 3/4"), it was smacking against the third brake light making a noise louder than the music. Carpeting it fixed the problem, and it also looks nice, but I did replace the tar paper as well.