Master cylinder replacement HELP 95 SSE w/ ABS
 

I have a 95 sse with a bad seal/leaking master cylinder. I was looking at my chilton guide on how to fix it and what parts i would need. Then i came to the part about 94-99's with abs needing to "Auto Bleed" using a tech1.... or scan tool. Since the master cylinder is only 50bucks i would rather do this myself if i can but how does one do this "Auto Bleed" on their own.

all in all do i pay the 150-200 for a shop to gimme a new master cylinder or do i do it myself for 1/4 the cost?
thanks

If I was right there I would show you how to replace the master cylinder in a matter of minutes and have you on your way... Its really not that hard.. Pissed me off when I watched the dealership do my 95 SE( at least it didn't cost me anything, under warranty )... They did it in a matter of minutes...

Remove the old master cylinder... Take the lines and the like that come with the new master cylinder and fill it with brake fluid and bench bleed it, masking sure you get all of the air out of the fluid... When you see no more air bubbles in the lines you can now take the master cylinder to the car and install it... Tighten the 2 bolts.... Install the lines... Have an assistant pump the brakes several times and hold the pedal down while you loosen the line and allow the fluid to flow out( make sure they hold the pedal down while you do this do not let them take their foot off the brake untill you have tightened the line ).... Then move onto the othe line... Repeat these steps several times untill you are sure there is no more air and brake fluid alone is coming out of the lines... At this point the brakes should feel good and you should be ready for a test... If you have bled the system correctly the brakes should feel normal and not spongy...

The master cylinder will have a brake fluid level sensor connector, and 1 rubber line that goes to the ABS/PMV pump on the drivers side frame rail...

Hope that helps...

Either that or you could pay the shop and have a warranty to go with it ;)

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wow thanks a ton... so filling it before hand and bleeding it well works? dont have to dink with the abs at all?and did they disconnect the bat. cable right?

im checking on my repairmen i know on prices and if not cheap enough ill end up doing it myself if it really is that easy.
thanks a ton!

if anyone else has input let me know!

It has nothing to do with ABS, and you don't need to disconnect the battery.

Can't remember, but you might also have to remove the plastic reservoir from the old cylinder and install it on the rebuilt one, if you go that route. There may be a roll pin that needs to be driven through to remove the reservoir (?) You should also take this opportunity to clean the reservoir with fresh brake fluid to get all the black stuff out of it.

Use flare wrenches (line wrenches) on the brake line fittings to avoid rounding the nuts. There should be instructions and plastic parts for bench bleeding that come with the MC.

Detailed bleeding instructions here:

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...brake+bleeding

Can one of you guys explain bench bleeding the master a little better for me please.

Hook up fluid tight temporary fittings to the two output lines on the master cylinder. These come with the rebuilt MC and instructions are usually also included. Install the fittings and run the lines from these fittings (usually vinyl) up and around into the reservoir. Fill the reservoir with fluid. Mount the MC in a vise. Use a dowel or round-end rod and depress the MC piston slowly and to the end of the bore, then release. Repeat (about 15 -20 times is usually enough) until there are no more air bubbles seen. Gets all the air out of the MC before installation.

ok thanks a TON thus far. I just bought the MC from autozone (cheapest by $20!!!) but obviously didnt ask those guys any repair q's?

so hear are the last few things i have for you.

1. Do i need a new booster gasket?? (doesnt say in instr. w/ MC)

2. Do i still do the manual line bleed after i install the MC after its bench bleed? (ie might vac it?)

3. Any other quick things to point out that aren't in your write-up from the other post or this one?

Alli-in-all this has helped me out a ton and saved me $$$ which always rocks. definitely Tech info worthy.

Was there a gasket between the MC and the booster? If so, and it looks OK, re-use it. If there was one and it is damaged, replace it. But...I don't recall there being one, and don't really know why you would need one there. (?)


Yes, any time you open up the lines, you will inevitably introduce some air and you should bleed the system at all four wheels. I don't recommend using a vacuum because the vacuum will pull air from around the bleeder threads and you never know when all the air is out of the lines.


If you read the whole referenced post, that should about cover it.

Good luck.