Hey guys, newbie to the bonny forums here but not to cars.

I just bought my 96 SE for $700 with a dead #1 rod. I have since replaced the engine with a 98 Bonny. Everything went nice and smoothly and engine runs great. However I had a code pop up orginally as a p0133 for o2 sensor slow response. So I bought a new o2 sensor and installed it and I have a p0134 for no activity. When monitoring the o2 mv, its just .450mv and not switching. So I figured bad o2 out of the box (bought new on ebay) So I put the old o2 back in and now same thing and same code now only a p0134. Im guessing its a wiring issue problem. Vehicle drove fine when had code p0133 in it and then with thew new o2 sensor and p0134 present code the veh idle dips and surges when slowing down or taking my foot off the gas, the veh has also stalled as well. I am guessing the car is running richer than normal since it has no o2 signal but I do not know if the stalling is related or not. I just was wondering if there are any common problems to look for before I start checking wiring and such (I heard about the driver footwell grounds and will check that as well, but where exactly are they)

I did do some trouble tree checking and it has good power and ground, however the purple and tan wires were not reading correctly, the wires ohmed out in range. The only other thing i can think of is a pcm but im not fulley convinced.

Has this happened to anyone before?

Been there..I forget why..but yeah..been there.

First things to check are the easy ones.
Is it plugged in? (I said easy )
Unplug it and look at the pins, are any bent out of place?
If the pins aren't bent, is there ground to the black wire and voltage on the pink wire?

All the symptoms are leading us to a potentially bad ground or wiring issue.

You did hook up the ground on the back of the engine block by the oil filter right?

Thanks for the response billboost. 13.1 1/4 time is very impressive for these big ole boats too!!! nice work!

But yes i did check both power and ground at the connector pins and back probed as well and both were same readings, has good 12v feed to it and ground. I did not back probe it on the 02 side this was all done with the connector unpluged from the pcm side. I will try to backprobe it with the sensor plugged in to see if the terminals are infact making contact tonight but they look good and tight and not bent or distorted so I dunno?

Hmmm Ok, of the four wires..and this is from memory (so it'* probably wrong) one is ground, another is power, one relates to the heater and the last is the activity.

If the pcm isn't complaining about heater, it see'* that.
You have power and ground at the sensor, that'* good
Seems that you need to test for continuity from the connector of the sensor to the pcm connector.

yup did that one too...lol it had .3 or 3 ohm. I cant remember what scale I had it set to now. But according to spec anything under 5 ohm was okay.

Then you eliminated all possiblities.

Power
Ground
Connection from sensor to pcm
Heater from sensor to pcm

Only other thing I can even remotely think about is you are looking at the sensor in the rear exhaust manifold... the one behind the cat is sensor 2. You want the one in the rear manifold.

correct this is the bank 1 sensor pre cat or after the manifold.

I dunno... maybe one of the others has some ideas. I think we exhausted it all and you probably are back to square 1 because of it..lol

Just figured I would post a fix in case anyone else comes across it in the future. It was indeed the pcm. Got a replacement one in and programmed and now both o2s are reading and flucutating nicely.

Now since I decided to go wot on it during the test drive and brought it back there is now a nice slight lower end knock and its down 20psi of oil.... Fix one thing break another..always seems to be my luck.