1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Work this problem in two thread and STILL haven't fixed it!

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Old 06-25-2007, 03:58 PM
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Default Work this problem in two thread and STILL haven't fixed it!

OK, from the top, and maybe we can get some new ideas. Thanks to Bill and Wren and the rest who have helped so far. But I'm going to lay this down into a new thread and maybe get some new ideas.

History:
Engine was a junkyard buy a few years back and instead of rebuilding it, I slapped her in and away I went. Few months ago i spun a bearing. Got her all built up and slapped it back into the car. She worked just fine for about 10 days and then started stalling when it got warmed up. Here'* what I replaced when i rebuilt her:

Main, rod Bearings
Seals gaskets etc etc
O2 sensor
Oil pressure sensor
Plugs and wires.

Here'* what happens when it stalls. When it'* nice and cold, I can get about 15-20 miles before she starts acting up and stalls. If I ran her the night before, maybe only about 10 miles. When she stalls, first she starts hickuping like theres a misfire or lack of fuel. At this point the tach starts jumping all over, about 300-500 rpm'* worth. Hitting the gas does very little and does not smooth the car out and eventually it stalls and dies. When you try to restart it will start, but immediately stall. i can sit for a while, let her cool down, and she will go again. Depending on how long I let her sit will depend on how long it will run.

So I tried just letting it idle for a while. It ran for 2 hours one day because I fell asleep with my toddler son. he has a way of doing that to me It ran for over 2 hours and never died, as soon as I tried to drive her, she died. in my ind this means, there was no engine prob, but a tranny prob. I promptly took it to my transmission guy. He rebuilt it a few years back for me. He tells me there is nothing wrong with the tranny and that it'* an engine prob. Don't ask me how he knows.

SO all of my shade tree mechanic friends and my Bonnevlle Forum friends tell me it sounds like a fuel issue, so i start troubleshooting the fuel system. I have checked the fuel pressure: checks Good. I did a check on the Fuel pressure regulator, it passed with the proper pressure, but did not pass the vacuum test, so I bought a new regulator ($80 by the way). I put that in, no change. According to my manual I amto check the Fuel Pump Relay next. According to Haynes, I should be able to pull the relay out while idling and the car should stay running. If it stalls, then the oil pressure switch/sender is bad. I pulled the relay and the car goes put put put and dies. So bad oil pressure switch/sensor. But I just replaced the sender and am getting good indication! So I check the wires, they all look good, but i don't own a volt meter, so i can't check them per se. Even if there was a bad wire here, it seems like I'm following the wrong path, would this really make my car stall?

Extrenuating circumstances. I have broke the oil sender before and the car rode just fine, I just didn't have indication. So I have a hard time believeing that is my problem now. The car is also not running very smoothly, or at least, not as smoothly as i think it should. I have checked for vacuum leaks and connection problems and there doens't seem to be any. And NOW, it seem like something is killing my battery! I have to jump her almost everytime i go to start it. Despite running for an hour, when i shut it off, if I try to start her in a little while, the car won't have the juice to start. it has enough to turn on the gages but not enough to start the car. I think the stalling and battery problems are seperate, because I was having a little battery problem even before the spun bearing, i just dealt with it. By the way, Autozone says both my battery and alternator are good, and the car shows 13-14 volts while running.

Check engine light comes on occasionally, but goes out. I know that the codes are stored, but i also know the ineptetude of the guys at the car parts store. I try to explain to them the issue about the OBD problem, but they either don't know how to pull codes or don't have the equipment. And I don't have a scanner or the $200 it costs to buy the one that is needed for reading the car.

And did I mention that I'm broke and have spent almost $700 on this car in the last 2 months as it is?

I am in desperate need of help, ladies and gentlemen. Sorry about the book, and hopefully i didn't put you to sleep with the details
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Old 06-25-2007, 04:37 PM
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Well, from what I read around here, it'* probably a fuel pump problem or a vacuum line leak.

Don't go by what I say though, leave it to the gearheads.
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Old 06-25-2007, 05:07 PM
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Mods..Lock please..

He'* on a post ***** spree from the looks of it. We ask a question and he posts another thread.
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Old 06-25-2007, 05:11 PM
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Please keep all the discussion in your original thread about the problem.
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