Mostly just to say thianks, I rarely post but come to read at times to keep from completely going dormant on our 94 Bonneville SSEI, I think it'* been alot better to me than I have to it. Momma drives it everyday, not me.

So today I get a call and she'* stranded, it won't start!!! OK, "will it not spin over or just not start"?? Her: Won't do anything!

Not that it hasn't had it'* few ills but this is only the second time I've had to go see about it, in its ~222,000 miles. The first time was just a coil pack at only 30K miles, and she wasn't stranded.

So I'm praying the 6 year old battery (September 3rd) is the culprit, it'* past due and I intended on changing it out before it got really cold, even though it'* been in the teens here, it'* not what cold really is in the high plains of Texas.

I check the battery and it'* hotter than most batteries at 6 months old, but I go ahead and get a new one and I've kept the cables/ends etc in spotless condition using dielectric silicone grease.

It still acts like a connection issue, bad cable or end-----or not tight, like it'* got plenty of juice til a load is applied, but everything checks out.

So I come here and start scanning (it'* getting dark by now and cold) for a possible relay or switch issue that I'm not familiar with, I'm rushing but don't find anything for as little time as I gave it and I'm not looking forward to working on it where it'* sitting.

I load up the jack and stands, tools and jumper leads, anything that might help in checking the starter when I can get under it and all this time trying to tell myself it can't be anything serious-----certainly not serious enough to make me leave it alone downtown, overnite.

Everything rechecked again, battery is hotter than blazes and the last time I heard it start (this morning) it just spun the heck out of it. I should say that 99.9+% of it is still original, I've had the alternator and starter off to clean and changed brushes and one bearing in the alternator, I just cleaned/greased the starter.

I try it again and dash lights flash, gauge hands wrap around, but nothing-------I get out to start unloading the pickup with needed tools and it hit me, Oh, surely not? Get back in and pull it out of Park and back in and wham, she fired. DUH!!!!! I'm usually not that hair brained but with that many miles and the lack of any real work ever being done on it, I had just convinced myself that it was something way serious.

So my very small bit of input that I might add to the forum, check the obvious first if it won't start, slip it in neutral to see if you're chasing a ghost.

So now, I need to ask about the neutral safety switch, is it on the trans shift linkage where I suspect or tied in somewhere under the console? Or? I guess it'* adjustable? I'd appreciate some direction.

The ole girl has been pretty good to us, still runs up to the limiter in a heartbeat and uses a half-pint in 3500 miles, when the Q/* 10-30 gets changed. I dropped all the original lubes out at less than 100 miles, filters etc, one of my habits on new vehicles----getting the trash out from breaking in.

I've had to put a balancer on it, fuel pump, boost control valve, spring wire rod holding the shoes on one side, belts and idlers, and those brushes and bearing in the alternator--------Oh, and finally broke down, quit using the broom and put hood support shocks on.

It needs air ride shocks/struts all way round, blower coupler and gaskets-----time to put another pump in and wires/plugs, but that'* all I know it needs at the moment which is enough.

Which brings up another question, what is the best bang for the buck in air up shocks for the air ride system? I need to do this pretty soon before Winter really sets in.

Thanks, for a great board where members (some in particular) give unselfishly of them-self, day after day, week after week.

The PN switch is located on the top of the trans below the master cylinder. There is an adjustment on it. It'* a set and done type of thing though. Had a similar thing happen in another car in the past and it simply was my fault for not fully putting it in gear. Is it still having problems in park?

I tossed Monroe Sensatracs on for struts. Decent pricing, direct replacement for the factory struts, been good so far.

Thanks for the reply, I've started it 25 times since and have been able to get it fired first shot, each time, but if that switch isn't ridiculously expensive I'll change it. I need to get it back so I can look and make sure it'* not loose or broken.


New issue this morning, heater wouldn't put out, Wife had taken off to meetings 70 miles away (very early) and called about 10 miles out, no heat. I told her to turn everything off, then back on but it didn't change anything. So she headed back and I've been messing with it since.

Both heater hoses are hot, so I'm going to take that as the core is OK, radiator has never been out of it but I've kept the coolant changed with a stabilizer added, no cooling or heating issues before.

It has ECC, the one thing I notice being different is the temperature setting flashes, not the whole board, just the temp. I found this in a search https://www.gmforum.com/t248504/ but I got past that to the point that she headed back to her meetings and the heater was doing OK.

I disconnected the battery for a bit, turned everything on and off and for a brief few seconds the temp flashed a few times, then stayed stable, so did the heat.

I'm going down there later in the day and will check out the procedure in that link, but does anyone have any more insight on the flashing temp setting?? Or anything else?

I'm thinking I did something yesterday when going to "start" but the NSS wouldn't allow it to fire, some gremlin I've created?