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Warped rotors = rythmic steering wiggle?

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Old 01-16-2007, 08:31 PM
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Default Warped rotors = rythmic steering wiggle?

I'm just wondering.

My front rotors (or at least one of them) are in the shape of a potato chip. I have a suspiscion that my right front caliper is sticking (alignment relationship between steering wheel and front wheels is perfect, but the car does pull to the right), as well as possibly leaking from the caliper or the hose (car needs brake fluid top-off every few months, according to previous owner). Which is probably the cause of the major rotor warpage.

The car/steering wheel has a rythmic wiggle when driving down the road. It gets faster as you go faster. It isn't always there though. Usually it appears after you've made a turn. Is this probably my rotors? I've already got new ones...just havent put them in yet.
Old 01-16-2007, 09:23 PM
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Default Re: Warped rotors = rythmic steering wiggle?

Originally Posted by Andx0r
I'm just wondering.
My front rotors (or at least one of them) are in the shape of a potato chip. .
Uh, It sounds like you have more than chips and dip here. I would STRONGLY suggest you replace the front (rubber) brake lines pronto!!! The Calipers sound like they might (are?) in funky shape as well. Have you even looked at the rear drums yet. Also the wiggle sounds more like the tires belts might have slipped and they are wayyyyy out of round or they are wayyyyy out of balance......or both. You got some work ahead of you to make this car safe.
Old 01-16-2007, 09:55 PM
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Not just the front brake lines (both sides), but remove and lubricate the caliper bolts on both fronts also.

After that, REPLACE the rotors. Once warped, turning will only buy you VERY little time before they warp again, even if you fix the original issue.
Old 01-16-2007, 10:41 PM
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They're already in the trunk I just need to get to the bottom of these other issues first. The tires are almost brand new, so I doubt that those are the issue.
Old 01-16-2007, 10:44 PM
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Break lines and caliper pin lube are CHEAP. Go for that at the same time, replace the rotors and pads, and bleed well.

You should be in good shape.

But before you re-torque your lugs, clean the threads with a wire brush, and put a little oil on them. STAGE-torque or step-torque them. Wheel lug torque can warp a rotor also. We're under-braked.

After cleaning the threads and oiling (for consistent torque on all 10 front lugs), torque to 50 (star pattern), then 75, then 100.

Or something similar (which I wrote too, based on the experiences of other members here):

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=18
Scroll all the way to the bottom for the wheel lugs.
Old 01-16-2007, 10:52 PM
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Will do, thanks for the tips!

I ws thinking of just replacing the right caliper, just because I think it'* been dragging for a while.
Old 01-16-2007, 11:34 PM
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The caliper won't be damaged by that. The pads will.
Old 01-17-2007, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Andx0r
...The tires are almost brand new, so I doubt that those are the issue...
I have a car with relatively new tires on it and at least one of them has a broken belt. They're some off-brand and I don't know what they've been through (I just recently got the car) but they have very little wear on them. My point is, just because they're new doesn't mean there'* not a defect in a tire. Unlikely, but not impossible. If you fix everything else and you still have that wobble, you might suspect the tires.

Does your pulsing in the steering wheel manifest itself at low speeds (almost crawling), without applying the brakes? This is a classic symptom of a broken belt.
Old 01-17-2007, 02:29 PM
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Nah. It doesn't really start until you're up to like 25, or you've just made a turn. Sometimes it goes away after you've just made a turn O_o
Old 01-18-2007, 07:11 AM
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Strut mounts?


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