well since i have had the ol bonie i have had a rattle when going from a dead stop and up till about 2nd or even 3rd gear... so, i changed the coupler about a year ago... but the rattle still hasnt left.. is it possible that maybe my */c tensioner needs to be replaced?? or do i have other problems?? any ideas..

Could be a tensioner, or it could be the harmonic balancer. When my balancer died, it rattled nearly all the time until I reached constant speed.

yeah that sounds about right... when im at a constant speed there is no rattle, and on the highways, same thing( when im not in traffic).. where is the harmonic balancer located.. and how much do they run for a replacement, and is it a tough job?

The harmonic balancer doubles as the crank pulley. I think a series II like yours requires a balancer pulley puller. You can borrow/rent one from a lot of parts stores. A new balancer is around $100, I think. You will need to jack up the car, remove the passenger front wheel, and fender liner, and crank bolt. You'll find the motor will turn when you try, so you'll need the special flywheel holder tool or jam a screwdriver just right in the flywheel teeth after you remove the plastic flywheel cover on the bottom of the driver side where the block meets the tranny.

But let'* decide if it is your balancer or not. If you grab a serpentine belt can you get the belt to move along its path much? I could have moved mine an inch or so, and it made pullies rotate when I did so. Get a flashlight, can you see cracks in the rubber on the pulley?

i will check and get back to you.

ok, so i pulled the belts, and i got a slight play, but nothing like a inch.. i looked around at my pullies and i did not see anything that was cracked or showing signs of wear. But, the */c tensioner pully looked like it was chipped..? so i am not really sure if that helps or not?

How much is slight?

Can you remove one belt, run the engine, listen.. then do the other. At least we can hopefully isolate it to one belt path.

The L36(series 2) does require a harmonic dampner puller. When I pulled Ben'* we wedged a punch between the tranny case and the flexplate. We also had to find longer bolts than the dampner puller we had available to us had. Fine thread shoulder bolts, grade 5 will suffice. I don't know about the L67, but the L36 requires a god aweful amount of torque to remove, then you retorque it to something around 110ft/lbs, then an additional 76*(this is the L36 and going off the top of my head. Numbers may not be exact).