No heat 94 SSEi ***UPDATED PROBLEM***
12-22-2006, 12:07 PM
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No heat 94 SSEi ***UPDATED PROBLEM***
Alright here is problem. Car blows ice cold air. You can get hot air to come out of heater if warm car up to temp then shut car off and start it up and turn defrost on 90 degrees.
After about 20 seconds you can hear the door shut for the heater and it blows cold air. My mechanic (personal friend not paid mechanic). Said that he tested the actuator. And it worked fine. The digital display flashes on start up. The tempature also switches on its own between car temp settings to outside temp settings. Mechanic friend said the ECC is bad. Im broke after buying xmas presents and engagement ring. Is there a positive way to find out if the actuator or the ECC that is bad so i dont spend money i dont have extra right now.
Thanks in advance
Andy and merry Xmas all.
After about 20 seconds you can hear the door shut for the heater and it blows cold air. My mechanic (personal friend not paid mechanic). Said that he tested the actuator. And it worked fine. The digital display flashes on start up. The tempature also switches on its own between car temp settings to outside temp settings. Mechanic friend said the ECC is bad. Im broke after buying xmas presents and engagement ring. Is there a positive way to find out if the actuator or the ECC that is bad so i dont spend money i dont have extra right now.
Thanks in advance
Andy and merry Xmas all.
12-22-2006, 12:15 PM
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Using this topic (and pics):
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ht=redneck+fix
Remove the glovebox inner liner and look through that hole. With the car running, adjust the temperature to full hot, and watch for movement. After about 30 seconds, move it to full cold.
Does the actuator move back and forth?
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ht=redneck+fix
Remove the glovebox inner liner and look through that hole. With the car running, adjust the temperature to full hot, and watch for movement. After about 30 seconds, move it to full cold.
Does the actuator move back and forth?
12-22-2006, 12:37 PM
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The flashing display on the ECC says that something is wrong internally in the system. I would bet that the airmix actuator gear is craked and that the ECC unit itself is not to blame.
Bill speaketh the truth. You need to check movement of the actuator.
Here is a past decription I gave for what to look for:
Bill speaketh the truth. You need to check movement of the actuator.
Here is a past decription I gave for what to look for:
Originally Posted by Echo SSEI
Remove the glovebox, and look through a small hole in the dashboard bracing. The hole you want to look through will be the one closest to the driver'* side as shown in this pic.
This pic is looking through the hole, behind the glovebox that shows the airmix door actuator rod in place in the white connector that is attached to the airmix door to determine how much hot/cold air. There is small black plastic box that you can't see that drives that rod. While looking through the hole, adjust your temperature on the contol panel and observe what the rod does. It should move all the way to the passenger side for full heat, and all the way to the driver'* side for full cold. If it binds, pops, or clicks, and doesn't move or moves erratically, then the airmix actuator is broken.
Here is a drawing showing the airmix door actuator location. You can't get to it though the glove box. You have to go from underneath or take the dashboard off.
And if all else fails and you can't fix it at the moment, you can always rig it for the time being as shown in this link: Wren'* Redneck Fix
This pic is looking through the hole, behind the glovebox that shows the airmix door actuator rod in place in the white connector that is attached to the airmix door to determine how much hot/cold air. There is small black plastic box that you can't see that drives that rod. While looking through the hole, adjust your temperature on the contol panel and observe what the rod does. It should move all the way to the passenger side for full heat, and all the way to the driver'* side for full cold. If it binds, pops, or clicks, and doesn't move or moves erratically, then the airmix actuator is broken.
Here is a drawing showing the airmix door actuator location. You can't get to it though the glove box. You have to go from underneath or take the dashboard off.
And if all else fails and you can't fix it at the moment, you can always rig it for the time being as shown in this link: Wren'* Redneck Fix
12-22-2006, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by trbomk3
alright so im gonna try a Actuator fix if that dont work then ill be back on for a ECC. You guys are downright impressive.
12-23-2006, 11:12 AM
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Acutator moves like needed. Had mechanic at work check it out as well. He tested using the BC methods. What he found was that it was the HVAC programmer. Part can no longer be ordered from GM.
But part number is 16197178.
I can make heat work for few minutes now but need to get this part asap.
Send me a PM if you have the part thanks in advance Andy
But part number is 16197178.
I can make heat work for few minutes now but need to get this part asap.
Send me a PM if you have the part thanks in advance Andy
12-23-2006, 09:03 PM
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You probably don't need a new programmer. Its likely plugged right at the vacuum hoses connector .
Remove the exteriror vacuum lines (write down what color goes where), remove the programmer and take off the lid. You'll see the connector and the interior vacuum lines. The connector gets plugged up, You can cut out the connector and use 3/8 vacuum line & wireties to connect the interior lines to the exterior lines (pay attention to what intterior color mates to which exterior color! On my car they all didn't match up) and I've also heard people drill out the connector ports and reuse it.
Best wishes,
Tim
Remove the exteriror vacuum lines (write down what color goes where), remove the programmer and take off the lid. You'll see the connector and the interior vacuum lines. The connector gets plugged up, You can cut out the connector and use 3/8 vacuum line & wireties to connect the interior lines to the exterior lines (pay attention to what intterior color mates to which exterior color! On my car they all didn't match up) and I've also heard people drill out the connector ports and reuse it.
Best wishes,
Tim
12-26-2006, 01:08 PM
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Update again so Saturday i bought two HVAC programmers. Tried first one same problem after minute door slammed shut and lost heat. So figured i would try other one same problem.
Now i have checked actuator and it works fine will open and close properly when adjusting tempature but after about 2 minutes of hot air it slams shut only blowing cold air.
So what is diagnosis now replace ECC or replace Actuator. Im kinda at a loss here.
Now mind you my heat is rigged right now with door fully open so i have a nice warm car and i can adjust amount of air flow where it goes so im fine for heating now. But i would like to have a fully functional heating system.
Now i have checked actuator and it works fine will open and close properly when adjusting tempature but after about 2 minutes of hot air it slams shut only blowing cold air.
So what is diagnosis now replace ECC or replace Actuator. Im kinda at a loss here.
Now mind you my heat is rigged right now with door fully open so i have a nice warm car and i can adjust amount of air flow where it goes so im fine for heating now. But i would like to have a fully functional heating system.
