OK.. got my car read.. and this is the code it gave me. long read

Symtoms:
-once very so often will get a CES light for a day then gone the next ( usually bout once a month )
-once in a blue moon car will stall for no reason, no warning.
-when engine is hot.. once in a blue moon.. after a shut down for 5-10min. car won't start.. leave car off for a minute.. apply gas while cranking ( as if it was a flooded )
-Car will stumble ( feels like a misfire ) shortly after car has come up to temp. once a week.. and it just hiccups and thats its/
-notice a lot more noise.. clackity clack sound after changing pulley and belt for the */C as the pulley thats hidden by the mount wobbled and the belt would go off alignment.. and cam seems to make more ticking sound ( like a valve tick, but not from the valves.. friend says to try running thicker oil.. currently 0W-30 synthetic )

Talk to my trusted mechanic bout it gettin my crankshaft sensor position replace ( and harmonic balance check since he'* down there )

He told me if the sensor fails, your car wouldn't run.. it either works or doesn't.. explain to me how its suppose to work and everything, and to try cleanin the plug for the sensor, check the wiring first ( don't want to spend $$ to replace it if it'* not broke )

So my question is does anyone have a pic of where the sensor is exactly? or scan the schematic of it'* position. I know its behind the HB/crank pulley, but I'd like to try his idea first.. but don't know if I can get to the sensor without ( if possible ) not takin the harmonic balance/crank pulley off.. its cold.. and there'* snow

Here'* a picture of the sensor. Just to the right of the crankshaft. The harmonic balancer has been removed. The backside of the balancer has two stainless steel rings that fit into the slots on the sensor. Cutouts in the rings indicate crank position when they pass by.



You remove the Harmonic Balancer by undoing the big bolt then attaching a puller like this:



The electrical connector for the crank sensor is underneath the point of the arrow in this pic:

There is a crank position sensor "shield" (attached with two bolts, I think) that covers the sensor, behind the balancer. I am pretty sure the balancer needs to be removed.

Yeah, I think you gotta pull the balancer. And, the plastic shield is shown in the last pic. On my '95, L36, it just snaps into grooves on the two bolts that hold the crank sensor in place on the timing cover.

Correct, the shield should snap off without tools.

Thanks for adding those pics, Bill.

Just to confirm.. thats where it is? Damm.. I don't want to pull the balancer off.. unless I break the shield and retro a new shield back in with different mounting locations

Drifter, I'm not that familiar with that area, but I think that what they are saying is that you can disconnect the sensor plug and check the wiring and contacts (like noted in your original post) without removing the balancer, but you have to remove the balancer if you want to change the sensor.

Murdock...list to the Lashman...

Moreover...pull the wheel and plastic shield...look over the wiring.

Did you have to replace the sensors etc after your car went swimming? Maybe all that water finally corroded the connector.

(Yes guys..once ... a long time ago..his car er uh..took a really long swim in more than door level water)

Yes, that is the sensor as shown in the first image I posted. And the shield snaps onto the bolts, one of which you have indicated with your arrow.

Don't be intimidated by the need to pull the harmonic balancer. If you have access to one, undo the big nut with an impact wrench. (I have heard some guys undo the bolt by fitting a 6-point socket on the crank bolt head, then jamming a long 1/2" drive handle against the frame or the ground, and turning the engine over with the starter - never tried it, but it is said to work.) What I did before my impact wrench was to remove the flywheel cover and jam a big rod (like a really big phillips head screwdriver) through one of the holes in the flex plate and up aginst the block. That will hold the crank while you undo the big bolt with a long handled socket with a pipe slipped over it for some extra leverage. Once the bolt is off, you just buy the three 1/4" x 20 or 6mm bolts and washers, attach them to the puller and it cranks right off. The puller can be had for under $20 at Sears. Sounds like a lot of work, but with the right tools it will be off in a few minutes and the crank sensor will be staring you in the face.

took the plug out.. hosed it with some rust check.. plugged it in and out bout 3 times.. car won't start.. no spark.. took the rubber boot off the plug to see if plug can go in further ( maybe bad connection.. ) same issue..

Well.. today'* hi is -8C and yesterday was -14C so needless to say.. its too damm cold.. its going into the shop tomorrow ( gettin towed maybe tonight ).. let you know wat they say it was

P.*. I never got a notification email.. strange.. :? oh well.. thanks anyways guys..

EDIT: Someone know the cost of it?