So this is a continuation from my former post. First the symptoms-poor accelleration, stumbling at idle and while driving but able to accelerate through it. Check engine light intermittent. Very very poor gas mileage (about 7-10 MPG)

I took it to dealer to read codes, and they told me bad coil pack (2), and O2 sensor, and wanted to charge $350! The coils and Sensor ran me about $120. So I replaced them myself, and got new plug wires for piece of mind. I also checked the plugs and gaps and all were good. The poor accelleration seems to be fixed and the gas mileage is better (about 12-15 MPG), but she still stumbles at idle and while driving, and even some intermeittent backfiring. The check engine light is still on.

Any suggestions on next step?? A buddy of mine claims that coils going bad "always" ruins the ignition module. Autozone checks them, but its my only vehicle, so I can't take it off and run to the store with nothing to get me there.

Some History: This engine has about 60K on it. I put it into my car about 3000 miles ago(not even changed the oil yet). It was a complete engine from the junk yard and was it great shape when I installed it. I had no problems until about 6oo mile ago, when I started noticing something. It'* only gotten worse since then, and it wasn't an overnight thing, and its been running bad for about 3 weeks.

Any help with the next step would be greatly appreciated!

I'm in Southwest Michigan. She starts up just fine, and being warm or cold doesn't seem to make any difference in how it runs. For example, I take my kids to school in the morning and then drive to work. The entire drive is about 1 hour. In park it runs exactly the same when I get to work as it does when I start it up. The rough running doesn't change while driving either, even the backfiring seems to be so sproadic I can't trace it to anything in particular other than the fact that it backfires while accelerating through the lower speeds and RPM. I've had some experience with GM computers and the such in the past with my 89 Riviera. That was stalling intermittently (at the most inopportune times) and i would let it sit and she would start back up again. After having a few guys screw up my crank sensor and then my MAP, and I had to replace the prom chip, I took it to a dealer and they traced my prob to a crapped out Cat Converter. That fixed the problem and I promptly sold the car. Anyhow, my point is that I kind of ruled out the bad Cat Conv. simply for the reason that it doesn't do the same thing as my Rivy did. Maybe I'm wrong in assum ing that, I don't know.

Any suggestions? I really hate the remove and replace method of troubleshooting, since that tends to be rather expensive. I work on Aircraft and our troubleshooting tends to follow the same logic, and it never seems to work out, not to mention costing taxpayers money!!!

i plan on drivin to toledo this weekend we can meet if u want and i can scan ur car for any problems

check the IAC also

Kenngin, you must have misread my post, I'm in Southwest MI not Southeast. Thanks for the offer though!

sorry bout that

I live in Southwest Michigan..

Too bad I really don't know much about your year. However, I am pretty good on my '89.. and I am willing to help .

What city are you located in?



-justin

Battle Creek

Oh, that'* a way'* away from Three Oaks [where I reside].

Isn't it Sol who lives in Battle Creek? I know we have a few members here who live in that area.


-justin

I looked up SOL on the memberlist and saw that he has Grand Rapids or Detroit as a home. GR is still more than an hour drive. I'm kind of at a loss on my next step. I don't want to take it back to the dealer and pay them another $70 just to pull my codes when they said they already knew the problem.