Here's one more test you can try before changing the crank sensor. Connect the meter to the pink wire again & see how much the voltage is dropping while someone cranks over the engine.

Forget the last post - you sneaked in there with the good news. I think you need a new cam sensor but can't tell you that with 100% certainty.

SHIT... and I just replaced the cam sensor 2 months ago. I guess that's what I get for buying a Non-ACDelco sensor. :x

Ok..... well this is weird.... I let it run for about 10 minutes with the cam sensor unplugged. I turned it off and plugged the cam sensor back in, and it fired right up! No codes! I proceeded to wiggle the plug with my dad watching the dash and scantool, and no codes popped up! I guess I am gonna go drive it around the block and see what it does.

That's an interesting twist & very weird. You might want get an ICM wiring harness from a junkyard. Keep that & any tools needed to change it in the car for a while.

I swapped out my ICM harness a while back. I found 2 ill-fitting pins on the cam sensor connector and a few on the ICM connector. You can straighten out a standard size paper clip to use as a testing tool. Compare its fit in the various female pins. Pay close attention and look for one that fits looser that the others. Usually you will feel resistance almost immediately on a good pin. Just a thought.

Hey Will, when you drive it, keep an eye on your idle. I want to see if it fixed it ;-)

It idles silky smooth at 1000. :lol:

On the other hand, I drove it back and forth to wal-mart earlier, no CEL, no hiccups, started right up both times. I'm thinking it was a flaky connection at the cam sensor, or it was very possible the old ICM had problems that made something screw up. Who knows... :lol: All I know is it seems to idle much smoother with the new ICM... not lower, but smoother.

The cam sensor isn’t supposed to prevent the car from starting. From looking at wiring diagrams I always thought that if the cam sensor were to short out then it could prevent the crank signal from getting to the ICM & result in a no start condition. That’s why I wanted you to try unplugging it. It appears that you just got lucky by wiggling the wires and either fixed a poor connection or a short in the wiring. I’d remove the wiring harness, remove the conduit, clean all the wires & look for any cracks in the insulation. This is in addition to the checks RedSled recommended. Or as previously mentioned – carry a spare.