fuel pump/crank pulley questions and intro
 

i'll make this my intro post too. i'm chris, as my user name states. :D

almost 20 years ago my father traded in his 1988 mustang gt for a brand new 1988 bonneville sse for my mother. once the bonneville was traded in on another car my mother started the "i liked my bonneville"

a few weeks ago my father found a 1995 sse i which has been sitting for 4 years or so. he said since your mother keeps saying how much she liked the bonneville i'll get it for her. getting it home and running, that's my job. :D

so i trailered the car home, pulled the plugs and squirted some penetrating fluid in the cylinders to reduce the chance of a ring sticking to the cylinder wall. a few days later i spun the engine over by hand.

while the plugs were out i check that it had spark, it does. :thumbup2: it also made a horrid clatter while it turned over. :cry: got me thinking and i took the oil fill cap off and made sure the rocker i could see was moving. compression tested the engine and found ~150psi each cylinder. that made me feel better. took the acc belts off and poking around i found the harmonic balancer is SHOT. the outer ring the belt ride on has rotational movement around the pulley itself.

first question. anyone running different sized crank/supercharger pulleys to up the boost? since i have to replace the crank pulley anyway i'd like to upgrade.

that leads me to question 2 and beyond.

is there a fuel pump cutoff safety feature? unsure if that was tripped or if stock pump is dead [old fuel all shalack'd]. fuse and relay are fine. if there are other pulleys i can buy what is the fuel pump i should upgrade to anyway? walbro 255? any injector upgrades recommended? plan on dropping tank this week.

tia!

cliff notes. crank pulley/ harmonic balancer is shot. are there crank/supercharger sets which will up the boost since i am replacing?

fuel pump and injector recommendations?

i know ive seen larger 8 ribbed hb's for the ser 2 but i havent seen any for the ser1 L67, but i havent looked either. but if this is just ur moms car, i would put a regular oe type balencer on, just mop.

did you check the relay for the f.p.? but for replacement i would recomend an oe pump. the wahrlbro is a good sub tho, just dont go with a cheaper aftermaket generic. you will regret it later.

and injectors are probably not necessary. you will have many mods to add to ur moms L67 to need injectors.

P.S. welcome to BC!

-Wes

Stock pump and injectors are plenty sufficient in healthy condition. Your only option for a new crank pulley is a stock replacement. But you can get a smaller SC pulley for more boost. It is highly recommended that you make sure the fuel supply is good. And that includes the fuel pressure regulator. You should get the pressure tested before you "pulley down".

i was just going to spin a gauge onto the fuel rail pressure test coupling. and leave it there permanent. any issues doing so on these? that's how my buicks are.

i was going to see what the gauge read prior to going w/ an afpr.

i swapped in a different [unconfirmed good] relay. i want to drop the tank for sure so i didn't get that involved yet with electrical testing.

just wondering if there was a cutoff for when the car is in an accident and the like.

There is no cutoff. But... there is (at least was in 92, I think 95's have it too) a fuel pump primer lead. Look for an empty green connector above the battery. Take a wire from the + lead on the battery to this empty connector. If the fuel pump works (and there are no shorts in the wiring), the pump should kick on.

i am familiar with said lead from the turbo buick cars. mine runs up behind the alternator. that is a question i had and forgot to ask. will be the first test i run tomorrow.

:thumbup2:

if my parents were not 25 minutes away i'd do it tonight.

On the opposite side, you can use a multimeter. One lead on the connector, one on ground, set to ohms. Should read almost a dead short or an open depending on whether or not the PCM is commanding a prime (the first two seconds after ignition on).

EDIT:

This can help you determine if the fuel pump relay is operating (changing state) correctly. You'll be reading through the fuel pump relay contacts and the fuel pump motor windings to ground.

thanks for the cool tip. never really thought to test it that way. should still show if the circut works correctly even if the pump itself is bad correct?

i just emailed someone in the for sale section for service manuals. they will be a big help.

You're reading through the relay and the pump. It will tell you if both are ok or not. Not which one. If you can 'feel' the fuel pump relay clicking, and you have no fuel pressure, chances are a bad fuel pump.

The fuel pump relay is under the black maxifuse relay cover under the hood at the top of the firewall on the passenger side.