My car has been acting strange lately and i got code 56 from it, which is QDM B. Through a conversation with another member on this club i have narrowed it down to one of 2 things. My boost control silenoid or my egr system. How would i test each system, the boost does seem kind of high and it burns a lot of gas.

QDM B monitors:

EGR solonoid 2
EGR solonoid 3
Boost control Solonoid
TCC PWM solonoid
shift solonoid A
shift solonoid B

Try resetting the PCM and see if the code comes back. How much boost is 'high'? How is the shifting/tcc lockup?

You really need a scantool on this to narrow it down.

Ok ive figured out that the round canister under the air intake is shaking a lot and i guess whenever i speed up real quick it will hit the air intake and pull on the wires for the air intake, which are already stretched as tight as they will go, and that is causing it to bog down and lose performance. What is that thing and how does it mount up, does this mean that i will need to replace it? IM almost sure this is causing my problem with the car cutting out and boging down.

Neither the charcoal canister nor the IAT can cause a QDM B fault.

Ive tried clearing it and it comes back but it doesnt do it when its idleling. The car will rev up then rev back down and almost die when it itdles, it does this while its in park and when i stop for a light or anything like that. The car also seems to loose power when i stomp on it, sometimes it will do it and sometimes it wont. ill scan it soon and post the numbers. I should also add that i have been driving the car for only 2 days and i put new injectors on a while back and this is the first time i have really driven it.

When i scaned it i didnt take it out i just let it idle, and the only thing i found that might be unusual is that it is idleing at 100 percent boost. is this normal?

That'* 100% DUTY CYCLE. Normal at idle, in park or neutral. 50% duty cycle would be on half the time, and off half the time. You should be fully bypassed at idle in park or neutral, so that doesn't really tell you anything.

Don't assume your driveability problems are related to the QDM fault. They may be, but no gaurantee. You need to watch/feel for shifts while driving and watching the scantool, run diagnostics on the EGR, make sure the TCC is locking up at about 48mph, and not slipping, and THEN if all that checks out, swap out the BCS. Should be only 20 to 30 bucks.

Ok Whenever i can ill set the tool up to start recording when it gets a code, then ill go from there. IM also still running the stock heat range spark plugs, could that be hindering the performance. Could it be that the stock pcm cant adjust to the larger injectors?

My suggestion would be to go back to stock. Pull the injectors out and put in the stockers, and remove the mini-afc. All of this could be causing your problem, and you need to rule it out.

Your mods don't dictate larger injectors to begin with. Stock injectors will keep up fine.

The stock ones are cracked, thats why i bought bigger ones. I think ill just scan it to fix the qdm b problem, and try to save my money to get more air flowing into this motor to match the fuel, even add a chip if i have to. Ive been going without for this car for a few months now so i guess another little while wont hurt.