I am going to replace my rear struts, and need to know a few things. What part number do I need for Sensa Trac NON ELC struts? What tools will I need to do the job? I know it says a few things in Tech Info however I need to know how big we are talking. Any comments or opinions on wether or not to ditch the ELC will be appreciated. Thanks.

keep the elc, it'* part of the suspension/ride pkg.

We ditch CCR, not ELC. As Travis mentions, ELC is a critical part of FE2 suspension (I know you have FE2, because SSE'* with ELC have FE2 by default.

ELC Sensatracs. Big tools. Alignment afterwards. You may need to re-adjust the ride height of the ELC when you're done. Do this BEFORE the alignment. Procedure is in Techinfo.

Ok cool I will get the part number for the ones listed in Techinfo however I can't for the life of me get the pics in Tech to load for the struts. If anyone has those pics please post them or PM me with them. I was wondering what size Torx I needed. That was my main tool question. One more thing exactly what is CCR? Thanks for your help it is very much appreciated.

T45 or T55.

CCR is computer command ride. Electronic struts. Performance and touring ride. The struts adjust the valving based on the driver'* switch selection. This is in addition to ELC. ELC is simply a ride-leveler when you load up the trunk, but the system is figured into the response of the suspension package (integral part of the handling, not just the leveling feature). These are GAS struts with air ASSIST.

You don't have CCR. It started in 94. Consider yourself lucky. My 93 doesn't have it either, but my 95 does. The performance of the system is lackluster at best. More of a 'Gee-Whiz' option like the HUD than a true performer.

I see. Thank you for the excellent explaination Will. Thank you all for your help on the struts.

Before you start, make sure you've got good penetrating oil (like PB blaster), nice heavy sockets (I recommend impacts, as I cracked standard craftsman sockets breaking the bolts on the knuckle free), and a huge cheater pipe for your breaker bar. I used a 3.5 ft section of fence post...



Mine weren't all that bad to break free, really. A few months later, when we did theJMFC'*, we really had a go of it. Using the impact sockets and the 3.5 ft pipe, we snapped a 1/2 extension in two... the bolt had rusted so much that metallurgically speaking, it was one with the knuckle - the rust had penetrated to a depth of over 1/8 inch of the radius of the bolt... that took some serious work to get out.

Other than breaking those bolts from the knuckle, it'* a *really* easy job to do the rears. It'* nice to have a second set of hands around when you're putting the struts back in, to help align the 2 upper bolts as you put them back through the rear deck...

HAHA, sounds like what I did.

When I changed my front struts I got on it with an impact...faggetabout it...so I took a 2 foot breaker bar and put the handle from my hydraulic jack on the end of that and REALLY put something into it...and even with ALL that leverage, I STILL nearly killed myself! DEFINITELY SOAK those bolts GOOD before you attempt ANYTHING, if not you WILL pay for it, and believe me, you will pay GOOD.

Just to give you an idea of what I was going at it with...




Good Luck tho!

I sent the struts and strut mounts for all 4 corners to Mechanic Dan after helping him with an engine swap.

Next evening I picked up the car with all new struts, mounts and 4 wheel alignment. Cost.. one evening of motor swap labor.

It'* good to see you guys doing these and showing it'* possible.

Seems two of the best tools are impact sockets and long breaker bars.