Doing air mix actuator replacement, need help.
 

I have begun the arduous task of replacing the air mix actuator on the 96, and already I have run into some problems. First off, how the hell do I disconnect the red clip holding the wire buss from the programmer? Also, I removed the 7mm nut holding that nipple thing onto the programmer, how do I get that off as well? More questions to come as I run into them (god this is going to be a long night). Thanks and appreciation for the help.

Here's looking at that programmer straight on:
http://www.clanmob.net/hosted/bonnev...c/DSC00939.JPG

OK! I got the red connector off, but the vacuum nipples wont come out.

You won't get the nipples out of the connector without destroying them. You have two choices.

1. Remove the connector as a unit. It slides onto the front (which you have removed) and the back of the programmer case, like on tracks. There might be a tab on the back bottom corner, I can't recall exactly. Try sliding the whole connector up and wiggle at the same time and it should pop free. Then let it hang there by the vacuum lines during the actuator swap.

2. Cut the vacuum lines on BOTH sides of the connector (making sure you note which color line on both sides lines up with the color lines on the other side, and replace the connector (like splicing the lines back together) with new vacuum lines just larger than the colored lines. I had to go to NAPA with the connector and matched the tubing up with some new line. What you are doing is replacing the connector with vacuum tubing. The connector is no longer needed.

Ok, the heater core cover is loose, but it wont come off. Ive tried taking the screws off on the actuator blind but theres no room for my hand and rachet, and I have to be double jointed to do the whole thing anyway because in place of the ECM like in the old cars there is an annoying plastic bracket and a bundle of wires where it once was. Only way to remove it is to remove the dash.

On top of that, despite pulling back the carpet and pad, I still cant drop the heater core cover low enough to remove it. Ive turned in for the night and im going to give this a final shot tomorrow. I really dont know how some of you people were able to pull this off and would appreciate the advice as im considering taking the dash completely out or just live with the "redneck" fix. My dad who's pretty good with such puzzles is stuck on how to remove this as well. He wants to remove the bracket behind the glove box, he thinks he can get the screws from behind.

http://www.clanmob.net/hosted/bonnev...c/DSC00940.JPG
http://www.clanmob.net/hosted/bonnev...c/DSC00941.JPG
http://www.clanmob.net/hosted/bonnev...c/DSC00942.JPG
http://www.clanmob.net/hosted/bonnev...c/DSC00945.JPG

This might help:

http://www.trialsnuts.com/ecc.pdf

Dude, don't remove the dash. The heater core cover WILL come out from under the dash with a fair amount of yanking. You'll have even more fun getting it back in. I suggest you pull it down as far as you can without pullling it out and try to access the screws securing the air mix actuator - that may be a pita, but it's much less a pita than pulling the heater core cover out from under the dash. Trust me on this!

And the vacuum bulkhead connector at the programmer CAN be disconnected. Details are in the above link.

I used a cut down ratchet and also found that Sears sells finger/thumb screw type drive.

One of these
https://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b...7/IMG_0636.jpg

With bit for 5.5mm is all you need. It gives you the workability w/o committing suicide. Then make sure you don't just connect the rod... you need to run the system through it's setup and then connect the rod properly..

Oh..Bob...what's that procedure?

With the air mix door rod disconnected from the airmix actuator, the calibration procedure tells you to command "Full Hot" from your dash controller. This moves the "gears" and the connector to the "Full Hot" position. With the door rod disconnected, your door is supposed to default to full heat (I suppose they designed it so those in the colder climates wouldn't ever freeze to death if the damn thing failed, but those of us in the warmer climes really don't think being baked to a crisp is a very enjoyable way to go, either). Anyways, snapping the rod onto the connector after both items are in the full hot position is what "calibrates" the system.

Its done. I had alot of help from my dad. And having the right tools definately helps and is practically mandatory for this task. I probably would have been done with this sooner if I had the right stuff since it took a couple of trips to Sears.

Here's the culprit:
http://www.clanmob.net/hosted/bonnev...c/DSC00952.JPG

There should be a techinfo article on this because when warmer weather comes we are going to be repeating the cycle with the same posts, and I would like to contribute.

Yup. That gear is split and the cause of all of your troubles (at least the ones related to the ECC). Glad to hear you have it done. We are working on developing a list of common issues that will include this item and the procedure to repair.

Glad you got it replaced.

Funny how every one that's not working right has that same crack...