DING DING DING bout to drive me nuts
 

i got my car yesterday 1992 bonneville se and today i'm bout ready to shoot a buzzered. when i drive the car and i come to a stop say at a redlight a chim goes DING DING DING DING DING when i get back on the gas it stops what is this thing how can i stop it form doing it cuase i'm going nuts can i unhook it anyway thanks moose

could be your low gas warning light, how much fuel is in your tank?that would be my guess.

Could be your brake light.... check your break fluid Ive had that happen before too :?

Check ALL YOUR Gauges!
Mine use to ding like crazy when oil pressure was low too. BTW, it will ding away when ANY GAUGE is in the RED ZONE too! This includes low fuel, low volts, low coolant, low oil pressure, low brake fluid & low WSW fluid (some models). It will also ding away if the seat belt is not fastened too.

check windshield washer...fluid...mine does that when it gets low...when your goin teh gs push teh fluid back enoguht trip sensor..when you stop the fluid goes back and forth prolly tripping the sensor setting off the dinging...check that

Just check everything that you can think of.

well i had between a 1/4 and 1/2 tank of gas. everybody had there seat belts on but my mother who was in the back, all the fluid are filled up. my oil pressure guage stays right above the red zone when it gets hot maybe just sitting there and being hot it droped below that redzone and when i started rolling again the pressure jumped back up and the noise stoped. windshield wiper fluid its got some in it i don't know if its full or not but its not empty. i'll just have to play with it i guess thanks guys

Oil pressure sounds kinda low. Mine generally hovers around 40 psi. Maybe one of the Series I experts can verify this suspicion

That's what I said earlier in this thread. That's your problem & why it's dinging! BTW.....Now for the bad news! You're gonna need a new Oil Pump & Crank Kit now too!
That's why I'm selling my 92 SE! If you want it fixed, well that will cost you about $500 Cdn in parts (@ Wholesale) & 20 hours labour! :shock:

a oil pump and a new crank kit i think not i've had motor that had 25lbs when they started up cold and they run fine its not 0 oil pressure and its not 5 lbs when hot idleing like i had in my last car as long as its got oil pressure i think i can deal with the ding ding ding

Well I can assure you that the "dinging" is the least of your problems here. I've seen 6 of these same engines in the last month with this problem now (including yours). I can tell you from my own expierence (mine is shot too) that it will get worse & if it does that estimate for the Crank Kit & Oil Pump will turn into a new Conn Rod & Block too. As when the bearing finally gives out it will take out the Conn Rod journal & or the Main Crank Journal too. Right now I quoted the "Cheap" fix. Trust me on this one, I work with alot of engines in a day at Work (Pontiac Dealership) & I've been in this business for over 25 years now too. :wink: BTW: Yes, I'm an old fart! Just ask Willwren! :lol:

lol
 

Whats my oil problem? lol.. my cars gauge goes to zero.. but I dont care.. I turn the music up! can't even hear the ding.. ding... ding... :lol:

Re: lol
 

Why not just unplug the sensor on the oil filter adapter? No signal = no damn dinging! :wink:

um
 

oil filter adapter? eha??

Re: um
 

Yeah...That pot metal aluminum thing that your oil filter screws onto! If you look from the top of the Passenger side fender straight down at it, you'll see it (the sensor that is) there. :wink:

waoh
 

Thats a sensor? woah

Re: waoh
 

The sensor screws onto that adapter dumbass! :duh:
I give up explaining this to you too...... :roll:


For the rest of you people, you may be able to just get away with an Oil Pump if your Oil Pressure is weak.

my car used to do that when the battery cable was coming loose, so I just went out any bought a new battery terminal bolt

I just picked up a 92 SSEi for $500. The guy said the oil filter wasn't put on correctly and no there's a clicking over 2500rpm. Runs great under 2500. Same problem??? Haven't heard any dings at the same time.

hmm...could you describe this clicking? Does it happen if you hit the gas at idle too? I mean if you bring it up to about 1500rpm quickly and immediately release the pedal does it make that noise on the way down? Almost like something is loose inside? I'm having a similar problem so I could use the best description of the problem you can give ...About the oil pressure problem. Raise the car up and pull the passenger side tire off. Behind it there is a shield with what look like bolts holding it on. Grab the heads with a pair of pliers and pull and they will come out. Pull that shield off. Right infront of you should be the oil filter assembly. There are 4 botls holding it on. Remove the oil pressure sensor, any lines going to the oil cooler, and the 4 bolts holding the filter assembly on. Make sure you remove the 4 bolts progressively and move them each about 1/4" then move to the next one and keep doing that until you get them all out. Then try as much as possible to pull it away from the block before pulling down. There is a spring and plunger that will almost jump out at you. Pull the spring and plunger out and carefully stretch the spring about 1/4". Make sure the stretch didn't happen only on the ends of the spring. Try to spread the stretch out over the length of the spring, its not difficult just grab different parts and pull then move up the spring and pull some more. Replace the spring into the block and put the plunger over it. Reinstall everything insuring to progressively tighten the bolts 1/4" at a time to ensure an even setting. That should raise your oil pressure. There is a chart floating around somewhere about exactly how much stretch = how much oil pressure but 1/4" or less should be enough to get a good boost in pressure. I've run 90psi through my system when I prelubed it and there weren't any problems and if you're getting 20psi right now 1/4" should get you back up to the 40psi range. Thats probably not a fix but it should buy you plenty of time.

I will be getting into the car a little today with Willwren. I will post to let you know what we come up with. At the same time I wouldn't mind touching base with you on a street performance rebuild, but first things first.

For me it looks like a water pump issue right now. Willwren will be posting some sound from his visit soon, I'm not sure which thread, so please keep an eye out as feedback would be greatly appreciated.

mmkay cause I think I have mine narrowed down to the dreaded rod knock in which case there's going to be a $4,000 lawsuit on the books but we'll see.

It will be about a week before I can address the whole issue but I'm confident that Willwren is on the right track with the water-pump. I need to get a new alternator before I can truley test his theory. he posted the audio on the "2500rpm+ clicking?" thread.
I hope your car problems don't come to a lawsuit. That means a lot of down time, and that always sucks :x

Welcome to my nightmare

I think it was started all the way back when we were trying to get oil pressure. Get this show if ignorance. We were trying to get oil pressure and although the book says to start the engine and wait 10seconds for oil pressure (which I brought to his attention) him and his infinite engine knowledge says we should turn it over until the gauge reads proper pressure and we can see oil comming from the rockers. Well I argued that I'm not 100% sure (seeing as I've never really built an engine) but it doesn't seem like a good idea to turn a pretty much dry engine over for extended periods without oil pressure. He hushed those concerns and told me he "knows what he is doing and has done it for 24yrs with no problems". So I went along and began turning the engine over. 15seconds of turning and no pressure so we try a few things and turn it over again. Three battery recharges and countless arguements from me later there is still no oil pressure so he finally says "Hey I have a preluber in the shop, lets use it." I looked at him like he was a fool. So we prelube the engine at 80+psi (on his strong suggestion again) and oil begins comming out of the rockers, but not all of them. So we turn the engine and nothing. Prelube again and turn again, nothing. Prelube and turn over while prelubing and nothing. Finally he says to start it and see if we can get pressure. Started it and ran for 10seconds, nothing. Checked a few things and started it again and again nothing. At this point its had probably a good 3-4min of turning over + starting with no oil pressure. All the time I'm telling him that I don't think this is right and "isn't this bad for the engine?" and all along he's hushing my worries with his "professional engine building experience". He finally retires to his desk to read over the schematics and I hear him from outside "Hey Jason! Did the oil pressure spring look like this when you took it apart." I went in and looked at a blowup he's had since almost day 1 of the rebuild and said "Uhh...yeah it looked JUST like how it shows in the dealership schematic! Why, that isn't how you put it together?!" He says "Well I couldn't figure out how it went so I put it how it seemed to go" HOLY SHI#! I yelled and cursed and pulled the oil filter assembly and sure enough the oil pressure spring was in backwards. I corrected it and started it up, BOOM 40psi of oil pressure. If I would have known this guys ignorance would shine like that in the beginning I would have never gone to him but for the most part the boring of the block and porting of the heads and other machining work like that I had never seen before so I had no real way of telling right from wrong. It wasen't until we're about to put the engine in and trying to start it that I started to question things and by then its really too late to tell him to refund my money because I'm going somewhere else without having a real problem yet. I dunno. I talked to a laywer in the family and he says this'll be an open-shut case because he sent me a "warranty" with 100's of escape routes 2 days AFTER the engine is already running and asked me to sign it. Because he sent it after work was completed it falls under a special category in which state law and basically "assumed professional workmanship" applies. He promised a fully functional engine and did not deliver on that so reguarless of what he sent me after the fact he is resposable with the costs involved with making the engine function as originally promised. SO basically he will have to pay for a different shop to pull the engine, fix everything properly, and reinstall the engine. Its just annoying that I have to go through this. Oh get a load of some of the "warranty" he is trying to pass off on me. Remember he has "CUSTOM ENGINE AND MACHINE" in his name title and brags about "Hi-Peferformance engine fabrication". (I'll leave his name out for now)


"???'s Machine shop will not be responsible or liable for any of the following:
1. loss of time
2. loss of income or revenue
3. loss of transportation or vehicle rental
4. equipment rental
5. any towing charges
6. crankshaft thrust damage
7. broken cranks after 90 days
8. diagnostic time, fluids, filters, or shop supplies
9. oil starvation for ANY REASON
10. piston scuffing or bearing damage
11. over heating, removing or melting of heat tab
12. vdetonation, precognition of pistons (melting or broken)
13. lifter rattle at cold start
14. burnt valves after 30days of installation
15. head gasket with burned fire ring
16. abnormal wear from contaminated oil or fuel wash
17. an engine used in a contest of speed or off road agility
18. engine damage due to performance parts added by customer following new engine installation
19. damage caused by fauilty fuel components even if originally installed by ??? Machine shop

and the winner "Also, any engine modified beyond original factory specifications, either by ??? Machine shop on the customers request, or by the customer, shall relieve ??? Machine shop of any responsibility or warranty" HOLY CRAP THATS WHAT HE DOES! He CUSTOM builds engines! Thats his whole deal. WTF. "Come to me to custom build your engine but if I custom build it I'm not responsible for it" Its ok though because the lawyer says this think is good as toilet paper. I just can't believe he would do something like that. There are so many different ways out. Like even if he admits responsability and by some fluke it IS covered in the warranty he only refunds $35/hr of the $65/hr he charges at a total of $400 on an "authorized defective engine"!!! I would never have gone to this guy if this was what he was going to do. I just can't believe it. I've gone and pissed myself off again..ahhh

Good; you're talking to a lawyer, so do what he says.

Just curious:

What's that? Something they put on to tell them if you overheated the engine later? Sounds like one of those plastic belly buttons that pop out of the turkey on Thanksgiving Day to tell you when it's cooked inside. :-)

Also...

I've put in head gaskets myself, but what's a "fire ring"?

You've basically got the turkey thing right. Its a little tab they put on the engine that has a soft metal that melts and falls out above 260deg so he could prove if I were letting it overheat. The fire ring is usually proof of detonation, not sure I've ever seen it though.

My car stopped dinging. Can you tell me where the dinger is located. I liked the ding.

Turbo5 8) 8) 8)

http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...61_21_full.jpg

http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...61_22_full.jpg