I think I will leave it stock and not plug the holes i already have the reduced diameter pipe I think it will be okay.

hey the metal coolant elbows come with a upper and lower where is the lower located i just had to take the one out

You should be fine, just keep the coolant changed regularly, and be sure to bleed all the air out.
To help ensure all air is bled out I drill a 5/32" hole in the thermostat'* 12'oclock position, it helps to bleed the air out, and provides a small bit of constant flow, that is something else I learned form a Bill Boost thread, if you have an OE thermostat it should have a hole already there, you can still bleed it without doing this, but it makes it easier to ensure all the air is expelled.
Just realized that post I was thinking of about coolant fill procedure for L36 was by Bill Buttermore, I don't think he is the same guy as Bill Boost.

The L36 motors only has the one, the other is cast as part of the tensioner assembly, the L67'* have both elbows.

Agin thanks William you have tons of great info if you ever get a mk2 vw let me know haha i ordered the gaskets yesterday and valve cover gaskets and grommets it appears the kit comes with black rtv is that the thread sealant if so I will buy an extra tube

Anytime man, I've had my share of issues with my 3800 Series II motor, and I got a lot of help from here, so I like to pay it forward, glad I was able to help!

I'll pass on the VW'*, I have heard they are all a pain to work on, I'd have to have somebody that already knows how to work on them well teach me a few things, then I'd consider touching one.

The black RTV you get in the kit is not what you want to use on the threads, get all the bolts threads cleaned up good, and use a little blue threadlocker on the LIM and UIM bolts.


When you have the LIM cleaned up examine it for any small pitted areas, mainly around the coolant port areas, if you find any you may want to consider using a little JB Weld and a old credit card or something, and fill the areas, then you scrape the excess off because you want the surface to remain smooth.


I'm trying to think of anything else that may help you out, but the only other thing I can think of is to mention that if you have not cleaned your throttle body/butterfly valve, then you may want to give it a little cleanup before putting it back.
I'd examine all of your soft EVAP hoses, and connectors, at 133k all of mine needed replacing, connectors to the throttle body, and fuel pressure regulator were splitting, soft hoses were rotting, soft hoses that were under the hood, and under the rear underside of the car.

I hope the oil burning issue is gone once you are done, even if it is not, doing the LIM gaskets was something that really needed to be done.
Let us know how it goes.

Yeah vws are a different beast but easy enough with the little 1.8 8v and with the vacuum hoses I noticed they were getting rotten when taking the LIM off so I definitely need to replace those I will update should get the gaskets by Friday

Ok i am supposed to get the gaskets In the mail today William recommended blue thread lock for the bolts instead of rtv my question is about how much should I use a large amount per bolt or just a small amount

i just squeze a quarter to a half inch on the bottom and when you put it in it should work it self up the thread

Robert Do you have the torque specs & sequence?

yes I am using the DIY from page 1 of this topic it shows the sequence and 132in lbs in doing it 1 half at a time