1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Like a Nightmare... IT'S BAAAAACCCKKKK!

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Old 05-05-2005, 10:19 AM
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Hi guys! I haven't posted here in a bit because we THOUGHT the problem with our '95 Bonneville SE was corrected. However, that'* far from the truth. OK, this is our problem: First time I posted here, the Bonnie was hydrolocked. This was when we replaced the upper intake manifold, but we were still having the problem of the car goin' DING DING DING - then cutting out (no matter whether it was street driving or highway driving). The cutting out problem STILL exists and we have NO CLUE why. So far, these are the things that were done on Ol' Bonnie:

1. Replaced the Upper Intake Manifold
2. Had the car scanned for Codes: Zero codes came up
3. Replaced the Crankshaft Sensor
4. Replaced a Fuel Injector mechanic said was no good.
5. Put in a new Battery.

NOW, the Oil Pressure is just above the RED. It does rise just a bit more above the red while driving, but here'* the kicker - when the oil is checked, it'* right on the money. BUT, I've been keeping a mat under the car for a while now and every morning, there'* small oily spots all over it. Is there a slow leak somewhere? Could THIS be what'* making the car cut out and die on us? What in the heck do we check now? Any ideas or suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated. You've guys have been extremely helpful to me and I do appreciate it.
Old 05-05-2005, 10:36 AM
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Well, your oil pressure will cut off your fuel if it goes too low. There'* a couple possibilities here, and I'll list them from best case to worst case:

1. Failed oil pressure sender (replace it, it'* cheap and fairly easy).
2. Failing oil pump (only way to tell for sure is to get your mechanic to check the REAL pressure).
3. Rusted out lower internals in your engine from your upper manifold failure.

Low oil pressure will cut off fuel to protect the engine, and it will cause a DING DING DING.
Old 05-05-2005, 10:52 AM
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willwren, How do you replace an oil pump? I know on older cars, it was on the bottom,and could be easily reached and replaced from the oil pan. I ask this because I will be replacing my oil pan soon, and if it'* worth while, I thought it might be wise to replace the oil pump for good measure. Is this a waste? How about the oil sending unit? My car is a 96 SSEi with 75,000 miles. Thanks.


Layla, It'* sounding like an oil problem on your car. I'd think maybe your oil sending unit isn't accurate, and would be a good place to start. I like to do the cheap or free things first, and then move on to the expensive stuff, only if needed. You have already done a lot for your car, it seems..

My 94 used to cut off on me, and at times, wouldn't start again. It was like a phantom problem, but mine was electrical. When the car wouldn't start, or when it shut off, I could still operate some things, while others wouldn't work. things like windows and locks, and sunroof...lights...etc. I don't recall exactly what did or didn't work, but the problem was a common ground. This was somewhere under the carpet, where my left foot would rest. My mechanic that found the problem, removed the plastic trim on the edge of the carpet, near the front of the door opening, and located a ground that is used for 8 or so electrical things...one of which was the fuel pump. He "fixed" it and all was well.

I don't think that'* your issue, but I thought I'd mention it since I don't know if you have other issues along with stalling.. Good luck...

Sam
Old 05-05-2005, 10:57 AM
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when sending units go back, arent the gauges usually pegged?

when i replaced mine, it seems to be not very easy to get to, in a very tight space

also, when my sending unit was bad, it would fluxuate around, and then finally it just pegged. did not cause any dings,
Old 05-05-2005, 11:07 AM
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Haro, pegged usually means its probabably grounded out. There'* plenty of different ways to fail...you got the lucky obvious one.

Layla...if possible check it with a mechanical gauge. It usually had to be put in place of the sender and therefore almost makes sense to have it checked when you replace the sender. That'll give you the best reading like the other Bill said.

I did look at replacing mine, except I realized my problem was gauges before doing it. I doubt your problem is gauge cluster...wrong symptoms. Back on track...when looking at it..I agree with Haro...looks tight to get to and a pain...might be worth sending it out for the mechanical test and put a new sender in while they are there....long as nothing else is bad.
Old 05-05-2005, 12:36 PM
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Thank you all for your quick replies. I will check into these things and let you all know what the end result is. You guys are FANTASTIC!
Old 05-09-2005, 08:40 PM
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Changed the oil pressure sender on the Bonnie this past Friday (5/6). Unfortunately, this did not work. Bonnie'* still dingin' and diein'. It truly scares the crap out of me to ride on the highway. :(

Will let you all know what'* next when we've done it.
Old 05-10-2005, 12:05 AM
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You have rusted out the bottom end of the engine due to water and coolant mixing with the oil after the upper intake manifold failure. The oil pressure warning is ACCURATE, and you actually have none.

*******the message above is the best interpretation of the problem and is expressed as an experienced opinion*******
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