1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Throttle sticking

Old 04-27-2007, 08:55 AM
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Bump, anyone remove and reinstall the throttle plate before?

Originally Posted by whitecrystal1
Except for the throttle plate that sticks after it sits over night until you bump the throttle once to free it up. When I reinstalled it I aligned it until it closed all the way. Is that correct? Is there some sort of a better way to align it?
Old 04-27-2007, 10:12 AM
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Please start a new thread. Bumping a fixed coolant sensor connection thread isn't going to get much viewing for removing a throttle plate. And yes..search WillWren
Old 04-27-2007, 10:21 AM
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Split from:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...c.php?p=860969

If you have a sticky throttle, do NOT drive the car. It may very well stick wide open.

It takes a very patient person to get the plat back in. You must remove the TB from the car and work it open and closed manually. Sometimes you get it right away, and sometimes it takes a few tries. The best way is to get it close, and get the screws just BARELY tight, so the plate can 'shift' a bit in the shaft as you open and close the throttle. While you do this, hold it up to the light to determine if you have much light showing around it. You shouldn't have much. Any light means air leaking, and your IAC may have a hard time dealing with your idle. If the leak is around the circumference of the throttle plate, the MAF sensor won't even get a good read of it.

If you still have problems, try flipping the plate AROUND 180° or flipping it OVER. It'* really only designed to go one way PERFECTLY, and should be marked if it'* ever removed.

I don't suggest removing the plate for TB cleaning. I only remove them to shave/modify TB'* for other members. Then I loctite the living snot out of the screws so they can't move.
Old 04-27-2007, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by willwren
Split from:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...c.php?p=860969

If you have a sticky throttle, do NOT drive the car. It may very well stick wide open.

It takes a very patient person to get the plat back in. You must remove the TB from the car and work it open and closed manually. Sometimes you get it right away, and sometimes it takes a few tries. The best way is to get it close, and get the screws just BARELY tight, so the plate can 'shift' a bit in the shaft as you open and close the throttle. While you do this, hold it up to the light to determine if you have much light showing around it. You shouldn't have much. Any light means air leaking, and your IAC may have a hard time dealing with your idle. If the leak is around the circumference of the throttle plate, the MAF sensor won't even get a good read of it.

If you still have problems, try flipping the plate AROUND 180° or flipping it OVER. It'* really only designed to go one way PERFECTLY, and should be marked if it'* ever removed.

I don't suggest removing the plate for TB cleaning. I only remove them to shave/modify TB'* for other members. Then I loctite the living snot out of the screws so they can't move.
Thanks willwren, I will give that a try on aligning it. Also thanks for splitting the thread for me.
I didn't think about flipping the plate around. I wish I had marked it now or not even removed it at all. I was just trying to make it easier to access everything for cleaning it I know now

If I can't get it perfect would it hurt if I did go ahead and shaved it a little? If I can how much can be shaved? There are no holes in the plate and I have no performance mods to the car.

Thanks again
Old 04-27-2007, 11:18 AM
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NEVER shave the plate. When I shave TB'*, I shave the shaft for increased flow/performance. I never modify the plate in any way.

You have to flip it over and around and find the best fit. Then carefully align and tighten while you tweak, adjust, etc.
Old 04-29-2007, 01:35 PM
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I think what he is saying (after reading her other thread) is that in the morning (after letting the car sit for a few hrs anyhow) the gas pedal is stuck and it really takes a good nudge to free it.
I have the same problem in my 99 sometimes, as does my brother in his 97 SSEi and my sister in her 99 SSEi.
I had my TB plate out, but my brother and sisters have never been out as far as I know. I do remember my old 98 SSE did it a couple times also. I never had that TB off that car, but I don't know the history of it or the 97 SSEi before my brother bought it.

I have been meaning to pop the TB off and get a look at it but just haven't gotten around to it. I do know I did play with the plate when reinstalling it to get the free-est movement before I reinstalled it.
I may just swap the stock 18k 01 SSEi TB on and see if it still does it.
Old 04-29-2007, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by OLBlueEyesBonne
I think what she is saying (after reading her other thread) is that in the morning (after letting the car sit for a few hrs anyhow) the gas pedal is stuck and it really takes a good nudge to free it.
I know I have a unicorn in my sig...That just has to do with my screen name but I'm not a she

Your right, that'* exactly what I'm saying about the sticking issue. I hope to have time to re-pull it next weekend and see if I can get it to stop.
Old 04-29-2007, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by whitecrystal1
Originally Posted by OLBlueEyesBonne
I think what she is saying (after reading her other thread) is that in the morning (after letting the car sit for a few hrs anyhow) the gas pedal is stuck and it really takes a good nudge to free it.
I know I have a unicorn in my sig...That just has to do with my screen name but I'm not a she

Your right, that'* exactly what I'm saying about the sticking issue. I hope to have time to re-pull it next weekend and see if I can get it to stop.
Sorry -I confused you with someone else with a white 00+ SSEi.
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