First off, i want to thank everyone for their help and advice in installing my remote start, most importantly Andy Green.

After about 20 hours this weekend, i finished installing my DEI Valet 554r
no real big problems besides draining my battery and forgetting a wire here and there. I have a few features left to put in, and this leads me to my question. Currently i have the lock controlls connected inside the drivers door panel, connnected off of the car lock switch. One wire to lock, one wire to unlock. I would like to maintain the progressive door locks, but i am not sure where or how to wire this in.

Any info would be greatly appreciated. This if for a 93 bonneville sse

Thanks!

Randy

Ah. That would be me... You're welcome...

It might be possible, but it'* kind of tricky, and I haven't done it myself yet. As far as I can determine, it would involve finding a lead from the car'* original keyless-entry receiver that grounds a circuit from the power-lock controller. The lock controller seems to "know" that the first ground pulse is a signal to unlock the driver'* door only; a second one should trigger the remaining doors and the fuel-filler door.

If the two boxes (the keyless-entry receiver and the lock controller) are separate, and I think they are, then a certain wire between them might be the one to tap, but to be honest I'm guessing at this point; I'd have to look at the diagrams again.

That'* what I _think_ would be involved...

There is an isolation relay that is activated by the RAC module. It isolates the driver'* unlock when commanded on. I'm not sure how do use it without using the original keyless transmitters, unless your new system has the isolation capability.

Or you could make your own timer (hard).

That what I was homing in on in a roundabout sort of way: to get at the pulse that reaches the isolation relay, or in other words having the aftermarket receiver mimick the Unlock pulse that the factory Keyless Entry module is generating. If that Unlock pulse is in the form of a momentary ground pulse on wire so-and-so coming out of the Keyless Entry module, then all you need to do is have your aftermarket box ground that same wire, and you're in business.

From what I remember of the Keyless Entry and lock controller diagrams in the book, they seem to operate mainly by having a network of wires going to various places all over the car, any one of which can be grounded to trigger a command (e.g. grounding the light-green wire at the outside key lock will unlock all the doors; grounding the yellow one will lock all the doors), so it might be possible to locate one such wire being grounded by the Keyless Entry receiver as an Unlock request.

I remember now why I never finished the search for that wire: my BulldogSecurity remote starter uses the same button for Lock/Unlock, flipflopping between one command and the other each time you push it, so there was no way for me to generate two Unlock pulses in succession with that transmitter anyhow.

here the gearheads go...lol...what is the range on your thing? i got the astrostart...and got 2000ft starting...so they say

edit

oh i forgot...i think they wired it wrong..cuz when i start my car...all the doors unlock...which sucks!

It depends on how you route the antenna wire. Just stretching it out across the lower edge of the dash won't get you much range. It'* better to run it up a pillar or otherwise get it up near the windows and out from behind the sheet metal as best you can.

On my SSEi I soldered in an extension wire to run it all the way up the A pillar and across the windshield header, although the reception is still only so-so because the sheet metal still hides it from certain directions. I'm going to try a stick-on antenna going up the side of the windshield itself (it'* a real thin wire embedded in a clear tape), which will put it into full view for maximum reception.

On our '96 Trans Sport that has a completely-plastic body, again I soldered in an extension on the antenna wire, ran it up inside the plastic A pillar and across inside the plastic roof, and that reception is _phenomenal_: it'll pick up the signal through multiple rows of parked cars, in cases where I can barely see the van in the first place.

It sucks, but it'* required; sorry. It'* not a mistake. The antitheft system must be disarmed before starting the engine, and that'* done by unlocking the car. So the remote starter must ground the same lead that'* used to unlock the car, the light-green wire at the outside key lock. (Try locking your car with the window open, wait until the Security light goes out so that the system is armed, then reach in through the window and start the car with your key. The factory alarm system will go off.)

The isolation relay has to be grounded simultaneously while 12V power is applied to the Unlock wire. This would isolate the front door unlock motor.

I think you lost me there, Fuddy; which Unlock wire are you applying power to? i.e. IIRC, the Unlock wire in the door is hot already, and the process is triggered by grounding that wire.

The wire coming from the power lock switch, going to the unlock relay.

I have to go read my manual again. I could swear that lead is hot already, and is triggered by grounding it.