Changing waterpump on a 95 SC
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Changing waterpump on a 95 SC
Before I start let me point out that this is a G body; a 1995 Buick Riviera to be exact.
My car started running hot again and finally scared me rather badly a few days ago so I parked it and looked it over.
Poor water in to the radiator and it comes out of the water pump; well atleast I know where the problem is.
All I need to do is change the waterpump, and it'* under $30 at Autozone; this should be easy... right?
WRONG
I release both belts and disconnect anything in the way, then remove the four 10mm bolts on the pully and that'* where things get hard:
The pully can't come off because the motormount is in the way, but you can work around that; just remove the pump at an angle and remember to put the pully on the new one before attaching it.
So I loosten a few more bolts, more 10'* and their above the pully. That was easy enough.
There are two 13mm bolts INSIDE of the motormount, right where it connects to the engine. With a small 1/4" tool that replaces the ratchet (You can't fit both the ratchet and socket in there) I can get the top bolt out but the bottom one won't fit; the head hits the mount before it clears the hole.
Now I work my way to the left of the engine and there'* one more 13mm bolt.... BEHIND A PULLY, so I remove the pully (stationary guide) and the bolt is actuallly BEHIND THE BRACKET that was holding the pully.
So now my engine has dumpped all off it'* coolant, the belts are off, the pully for the pump is unbolted but can't be completly removed, one bolt sitting behind the motor mount is free but the other is stuck and another bolt is behind a bracket I don't know how to remove.
I'm affraid I may have to remove the engine to do this, and I don't have the tools for that. Pepboys gave me and estimate in the $550+ range.
Well, if I do remove the engine I can change the back spark plugs while I do the rest.
If anyone can help me please do. I'm stuck between a rock and an engine stuck in a car sideways.
Here are the Haynes books I can find in my local autoparts stores:
38010 - Buick Regal, Chevrolet Lumina, Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme & Pontiac Grand Prix all front-wheel drive models. Buick Regal ’88 thru ‘02, Olds Cutlass Supreme ’88 thru ’96, Pontiac Grand Prix '88 thru '99, Chevrolet Lumina '90 thru '94. Does not include information on supercharged engines.
38031 - Cadillac Eldorado, Seville, Deville, Buick Riviera & Oldsmobile Toronado, Cadillac Eldorado & Seville '86 thru '91, Cadillac Deville '86 thru '93, Cadillac Fleetwood '86 thru 92, Buick Riviera '86 thru '93, Oldsmobile Toronado '86 thru '92
38030 - Cadillac Eldorado '71 thru '85, Seville '80 thru '85, Oldsmobile Toronado '71 thru '85, & Buick Riviera '79 thru '85, all gasoline models.
19020 - Buick, Oldsmobile & Pontiac Full-size (Front wheel drive) '85 thru '02 Does not include diesel engine or supercharger information, or rear-wheel drive models.
I checked and the SeriesI and SeriesII use two different part numbers for the waterpump so procedure will probably be different.
If I need to remove a power steering pully or pump please tell me how, I have no idea how to remove this stupid bracket.
Again, any help would be more than welcome.
Thanks.
My car started running hot again and finally scared me rather badly a few days ago so I parked it and looked it over.
Poor water in to the radiator and it comes out of the water pump; well atleast I know where the problem is.
All I need to do is change the waterpump, and it'* under $30 at Autozone; this should be easy... right?
WRONG
I release both belts and disconnect anything in the way, then remove the four 10mm bolts on the pully and that'* where things get hard:
The pully can't come off because the motormount is in the way, but you can work around that; just remove the pump at an angle and remember to put the pully on the new one before attaching it.
So I loosten a few more bolts, more 10'* and their above the pully. That was easy enough.
There are two 13mm bolts INSIDE of the motormount, right where it connects to the engine. With a small 1/4" tool that replaces the ratchet (You can't fit both the ratchet and socket in there) I can get the top bolt out but the bottom one won't fit; the head hits the mount before it clears the hole.
Now I work my way to the left of the engine and there'* one more 13mm bolt.... BEHIND A PULLY, so I remove the pully (stationary guide) and the bolt is actuallly BEHIND THE BRACKET that was holding the pully.
So now my engine has dumpped all off it'* coolant, the belts are off, the pully for the pump is unbolted but can't be completly removed, one bolt sitting behind the motor mount is free but the other is stuck and another bolt is behind a bracket I don't know how to remove.
I'm affraid I may have to remove the engine to do this, and I don't have the tools for that. Pepboys gave me and estimate in the $550+ range.
Well, if I do remove the engine I can change the back spark plugs while I do the rest.
If anyone can help me please do. I'm stuck between a rock and an engine stuck in a car sideways.
Here are the Haynes books I can find in my local autoparts stores:
38010 - Buick Regal, Chevrolet Lumina, Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme & Pontiac Grand Prix all front-wheel drive models. Buick Regal ’88 thru ‘02, Olds Cutlass Supreme ’88 thru ’96, Pontiac Grand Prix '88 thru '99, Chevrolet Lumina '90 thru '94. Does not include information on supercharged engines.
38031 - Cadillac Eldorado, Seville, Deville, Buick Riviera & Oldsmobile Toronado, Cadillac Eldorado & Seville '86 thru '91, Cadillac Deville '86 thru '93, Cadillac Fleetwood '86 thru 92, Buick Riviera '86 thru '93, Oldsmobile Toronado '86 thru '92
38030 - Cadillac Eldorado '71 thru '85, Seville '80 thru '85, Oldsmobile Toronado '71 thru '85, & Buick Riviera '79 thru '85, all gasoline models.
19020 - Buick, Oldsmobile & Pontiac Full-size (Front wheel drive) '85 thru '02 Does not include diesel engine or supercharger information, or rear-wheel drive models.
I checked and the SeriesI and SeriesII use two different part numbers for the waterpump so procedure will probably be different.
If I need to remove a power steering pully or pump please tell me how, I have no idea how to remove this stupid bracket.
Again, any help would be more than welcome.
Thanks.
#2
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Certified Car Nut
Well, you found the design flaw the hard way. You can remove the accessory bracket without removing the engine. You just need to find all its bolts, too. You need to remove the... heck, here is most of it:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/techinfo/?article=68
Leave the hoses on the power steering pump and let it hang. The bracket has some hidden bolts. Remove as many as you can find, then feel for more. There might be one on the back side most easily reached from underneath, where the bracket meets the tranny.
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/techinfo/?article=68
Leave the hoses on the power steering pump and let it hang. The bracket has some hidden bolts. Remove as many as you can find, then feel for more. There might be one on the back side most easily reached from underneath, where the bracket meets the tranny.
#4
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Originally Posted by any_key
Thanks, a lot.
I was estimated as close to $550 for this to be done by a pro.
I was estimated as close to $550 for this to be done by a pro.
Also Mortehl just did a waterpump on a 95 SC Bonne... he had a heck of a learning experience and I bet he knows that exact bolt.
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Step 1: BREATHE
Step 2: BREATHE SOME MORE. This CAN be done. When Bill says that I had a learning experience doing this, he'* really not kidding.
Now the Real Process: I know you did some of this, but for simplicity sake, I'm repeating everything:
1) Remove Drive Belts, set aside
2) Remove Alternator and alternator bracket (that longass screw holding the alternator in.
3) Remove the idler pulleys (I'm not sure if this is totally required per se, but it gave me a better view of everything else I needed to do.
4) Remove your power steering pump (DO NOT DISCONNECT THE LINES). You can access the bolts that hold the water pump to the engine by going through the pulley. Please note here that I managed to do this from the top. The book and most other people say do it from the bottom.
5) Remove the accessory bracket. (Notice hidden bolt plus the one other you didn't even realize was hidden, SCREAM REALLY LOUDLY, then move on.)
6) Remove your motor mount. I know you can supposedly weasel it without doing this but trust me, you're saving yourself alot of gray hair by just doing it. I supported the engine by grabbing a board and putting it on my jack and jacking up from the oil pan. Initially just enough to take pressure of the motor mount, and then more to get the stupid mount and bracket off (2 bolts from the bottom, 1 bigass bolt from the top on the bracket [Don't do what I did here and break a 15mm socket cause I was stupid and turned the wrong way]).
7 The Water pump is held by 4 10mm and 4 13mm bolts. Have fun Incidently: Please be sure to torque the bolts to spec, its aluminum and you REALLY don't want to do this again, do you?
Step 2: BREATHE SOME MORE. This CAN be done. When Bill says that I had a learning experience doing this, he'* really not kidding.
Now the Real Process: I know you did some of this, but for simplicity sake, I'm repeating everything:
1) Remove Drive Belts, set aside
2) Remove Alternator and alternator bracket (that longass screw holding the alternator in.
3) Remove the idler pulleys (I'm not sure if this is totally required per se, but it gave me a better view of everything else I needed to do.
4) Remove your power steering pump (DO NOT DISCONNECT THE LINES). You can access the bolts that hold the water pump to the engine by going through the pulley. Please note here that I managed to do this from the top. The book and most other people say do it from the bottom.
5) Remove the accessory bracket. (Notice hidden bolt plus the one other you didn't even realize was hidden, SCREAM REALLY LOUDLY, then move on.)
6) Remove your motor mount. I know you can supposedly weasel it without doing this but trust me, you're saving yourself alot of gray hair by just doing it. I supported the engine by grabbing a board and putting it on my jack and jacking up from the oil pan. Initially just enough to take pressure of the motor mount, and then more to get the stupid mount and bracket off (2 bolts from the bottom, 1 bigass bolt from the top on the bracket [Don't do what I did here and break a 15mm socket cause I was stupid and turned the wrong way]).
7 The Water pump is held by 4 10mm and 4 13mm bolts. Have fun Incidently: Please be sure to torque the bolts to spec, its aluminum and you REALLY don't want to do this again, do you?
#6
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I removed the belts first, tried to remove the water pump pully next, looked online and removed the motor mount (that was fun, I had to figure out what part gets removed).
The alternator is off and now the water pump is kicking my butt.
I looked in a repair manual for the L32 but the bracketing is different, so different that I'm ready to loose my mind.
As far as the Power steering pump goes I think one bolt is in the middle of the pully, don't know where the other is. I need to remove a bolt behind the pump that I can't get a socket on with the pump there and two hard lines are in the way of another bolt.
I've scrapped a few knuckels and had three full grown men, asside from myself, scratching their heads and wondering who was smoking what when they designed this thing.
The alternator is off and now the water pump is kicking my butt.
I looked in a repair manual for the L32 but the bracketing is different, so different that I'm ready to loose my mind.
As far as the Power steering pump goes I think one bolt is in the middle of the pully, don't know where the other is. I need to remove a bolt behind the pump that I can't get a socket on with the pump there and two hard lines are in the way of another bolt.
I've scrapped a few knuckels and had three full grown men, asside from myself, scratching their heads and wondering who was smoking what when they designed this thing.
#7
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Originally Posted by any_key
I removed the belts first, tried to remove the water pump pully next, looked online and removed the motor mount (that was fun, I had to figure out what part gets removed).
The alternator is off and now the water pump is kicking my butt.
I looked in a repair manual for the L32 but the bracketing is different, so different that I'm ready to loose my mind.
As far as the Power steering pump goes I think one bolt is in the middle of the pully, don't know where the other is. I need to remove a bolt behind the pump that I can't get a socket on with the pump there and two hard lines are in the way of another bolt.
I've scrapped a few knuckels and had three full grown men, asside from myself, scratching their heads and wondering who was smoking what when they designed this thing.
The alternator is off and now the water pump is kicking my butt.
I looked in a repair manual for the L32 but the bracketing is different, so different that I'm ready to loose my mind.
As far as the Power steering pump goes I think one bolt is in the middle of the pully, don't know where the other is. I need to remove a bolt behind the pump that I can't get a socket on with the pump there and two hard lines are in the way of another bolt.
I've scrapped a few knuckels and had three full grown men, asside from myself, scratching their heads and wondering who was smoking what when they designed this thing.
You're almost there!
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Doesn't sound far off from a 97 ... I only had to lift the motor to replace the belt... but figured while I was in there the WP was due for a replacin... Those cool bolts that you access through the pulleys are pretty whacked!
Just think how good you'll feel when it'* done!
Nim
Just think how good you'll feel when it'* done!
Nim
#9
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Oh boy..did Mortehl leave tons out. Like how he ran my cell battery dead calling saying he couldn't get bolts out and couldn't figure it out. There was a whole lot more screaming and crying than he lets onto.
The power steering pump bolts are accessed through the ps pulley at 12 and 6 o'clock, they are probably 13mm'*. That'll hop right out of the way after that.
If you have questions on other ones..please snap a pic if possible..otherwise just describe it. They really aren't hard, just time consuming all the steps you need to follow to get at the bolts.
The power steering pump bolts are accessed through the ps pulley at 12 and 6 o'clock, they are probably 13mm'*. That'll hop right out of the way after that.
If you have questions on other ones..please snap a pic if possible..otherwise just describe it. They really aren't hard, just time consuming all the steps you need to follow to get at the bolts.
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The heater core hoses are still in my way, but I got the PS pump off.
The hoses are held on by a nut attached to a bolt coming from the mount or block. I can't move the hoses off of the bolt seeing as their hard hoses and I need to access a bolt just behind one of the hoses.
I've seen refrence to a hidden bolt on the side of the mount; where is this? I'm sure I'll find it but if someone can point me in the right direction that'll save me some time.
The hoses are held on by a nut attached to a bolt coming from the mount or block. I can't move the hoses off of the bolt seeing as their hard hoses and I need to access a bolt just behind one of the hoses.
I've seen refrence to a hidden bolt on the side of the mount; where is this? I'm sure I'll find it but if someone can point me in the right direction that'll save me some time.