Can't get to backwards engine/trans bolt!
#1
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Can't get to backwards engine/trans bolt!
OK...
I'm trying to pull my motor now, but can't get to the last engine-trans bolt because that front engine bracket is in the way (jr suggested that the way to undo that bolt - believe it or not - is to fish a 10 foot long string of socket extensions through the passenger wheel well and back along the base of the rear cylinder bank)
I've gotten all but one bolt out of the bracket - at least I think there'* still one holding it on. The bracket will pivot side to side but I can't seem to find that last fastener!
Any advice - aside from the location of a good army-navy story that sells hand grenades - would be appreciated
I'm trying to pull my motor now, but can't get to the last engine-trans bolt because that front engine bracket is in the way (jr suggested that the way to undo that bolt - believe it or not - is to fish a 10 foot long string of socket extensions through the passenger wheel well and back along the base of the rear cylinder bank)
I've gotten all but one bolt out of the bracket - at least I think there'* still one holding it on. The bracket will pivot side to side but I can't seem to find that last fastener!
Any advice - aside from the location of a good army-navy story that sells hand grenades - would be appreciated
#2
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JR; Did you have to move the Alt/PSP bracket in order to get to that eng/trans bolt, or can you reach the bolt with the bracket in place.
I'm pulling my hair out here - but I do appreciate your help!
I'm pulling my hair out here - but I do appreciate your help!
#3
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I just read through this and you have to remove the power steering pump then the engine bracket, you should have better access after this.
It took me over 3' of extension to install the cross over pipe on my headers, diving in through the wheel well, may seem odd but if it works?
It took me over 3' of extension to install the cross over pipe on my headers, diving in through the wheel well, may seem odd but if it works?
#4
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I just pulled the motor on my '97 SSEi a couple of months ago and the way I got that bolt was by purchasing a cheap set ($12) of long 1/2" drive extensions at the local auto parts store. You need about 32" as I recall. The fewer joints, the better. I removed the passenger wheel and splash guard then set up a jackstand at the same height as the bolt at the outer end of the extension close to the handle. A breaker bar would be best, but I used a 15" flex handle (add a cheater pipe if necessary) and a 6-point socket on the other end that just fits the bolt. I can't recall the size (11/16" - 18mm? maybe) I n my case, the power steering bracket was off.
The 6-point socket and the jackstand setup will allow you to apply a great deal of torque without slipping. This is a bolt head you do not want to strip. Set up the handle at about a 10:00 o'clock position facing the bolt so the initial breaking force is downwards supported by the jackstand. Tap the whole deal in towards the bolt to remove any slack in the joints. Maintain a little inward pressure toward the bolt; and keep the extension perpendicular to the bolt with the help of the jackstand.
Good luck.
Bill B
'97 SSEi
The 6-point socket and the jackstand setup will allow you to apply a great deal of torque without slipping. This is a bolt head you do not want to strip. Set up the handle at about a 10:00 o'clock position facing the bolt so the initial breaking force is downwards supported by the jackstand. Tap the whole deal in towards the bolt to remove any slack in the joints. Maintain a little inward pressure toward the bolt; and keep the extension perpendicular to the bolt with the help of the jackstand.
Good luck.
Bill B
'97 SSEi
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