What this chage do for engine?

It more effectively restricts air from entering the coolant system than the OEM cap does. With the air sensitivity of DexCool, many people choose to go with the Stant cap.

It'* got a spring loaded gramet that lowers when the lever is lowered. It then makes a seal with the radiator filler neck to maintain the given lb. of pressure (in the 3800 engines, 16 lbs.).

That'* incorrect. The only difference is that you can vent to atmosphere when the system is pressurized (hot). It doesn't make any difference as far as allowing air into the system. The only time the stock cap changes state, is when the pressure in the radiator overcomes the spring force. Fluid is forced into the recovery tank until the pressure equalizes.

The stant cap ONLY adds the option of venting to the outside before you remove the cap. Nothing else.

My 93SSEI runs between 210 and 230 degrees F. Would I benifit my engine or reduce heating by changing to a standt cap?

It will make NO difference whatsoever, other than giving you a pretty little red lever on your cap.

Change your THERMOSTAT to a 180° instead of the stock 195°. That'll help some, but the cap won't do anything at all.

I have the 3-core (coolant, engine oil, trans fluid), the stock trans cooler, and another aux trans cooler.

I have a 5-core now

So I'm COOLER than you, old man.

Hi

For those running dexcool, changing to a spring type design could make a great deal of difference.

The additional downward pressure of a spring, ensures additional sealing integrity over the oem weighted type cap. This additional protection can help keep out air which can bypass the recovery bottle and invade the system.

Once there is air in a dex system, the anti corrosion protection is inhibited. Air, for the "green" type, beyond the basic cooling issues of "hot spots", doesnt effect the anti corrosion inhibitors to the same degree as it uses silicates and "plates" all the surfaces. These "long life" types, need constant contact to maintain the protection. This is where the problem begins.

Essentially, there are two ways air enters the system.
1. the recovery bottle is ALLOWED to get low, and the system sucks air in through the vacume produced as the engine cools.

2. through the radiator cap. often in a dex system, one will find debris, which in itself may be harmless, or a sign of massive corrosion in the system migrating to the outside world. This debris will often form on the sealing surface of the cap..and through the magic of time, is breached and is no longer effective.

If you have a dex system, check the radiator cap sealing surface for corrosion. If it is present, you have some choices to make.

1. ignore it, and take your chances.

2. flush the system completely and thoroughly and either fill with another long life coolant (G-O5 comes to mind) or switch to Prestone "Green" which will put you back to 2-3 year flushes, but most likely you will be doing that with "long life" anyways.

And then...REPLACE that weighted oem type cap with a spring STANT to gain additional security.

Finally....MAiINTAIN the level in the bottle at ALL times. I've heard that the general is now suggesting that the level be maintained cold at the HOT level...for further security.


A good read on radiator caps and long life coolant.
http://www.coolprofits.com/articles/...ohnbrunner.htm

this is a nice link, as you can see the corrosion on the radiator cap up close and personal. Nasty stuff.

http://www.motor.com/MAGAZINE/Pdf/082002_04.pdf

With over 2500 members now, we have yet to see a single problem that might even be REMOTELY attributed to the radiator cap.

Don't waste your money.

hi

there are more than a few classaction suits kicking around based on this "non issue".


dont be cheap....