Back in biz!
 

OK, Today I put in new plugs and new wires. Now we're cookin! :rkr Was harder than I thought it would be, er... I mean took longer than I thought it would.

Thanks for the tips!! :thumbup2 Lets hope that was the problem. It definitely was a problem, those old plugs looked bad, and I think the wires were O.G.

I also managed pull that stinky ass carpet... yikes.

Keep it up, things get easier. I can change plugs in about 20 minutes.

Regular copper-core spark plugs last about 36,000 miles. Only platinum or iridium plugs will last up to 100,000 miles, and that's an optimistic measurement (and I'd trust the manufacturer instead).

Now, did you save and number your plugs? It's always a good idea to do an autopsy on your plugs to determine how your car is running.

I thought about keeping the plugs, numbering, etc. But they were pretty much identical condition wise - electrode down to the nubs, 'filament' sort of whitish-- so I just took a pic and tossed them.

More Stalling, new idiot lights.
 

The LSS stalled on me twice today (3/7) on a 1.5 mile round trip. :-(

Both times, the bells sounded, and at least 3 lights (maybe 4?) on the upper left hand side of the dash lit up, I recall 'Low Oil Pressure' as one of them. I did not want to sit and study, since I was in traffic, and I'm not familiar with the all the lights yet. The temp gauge looked OK (around 180º). I have all new new wires and plugs, properly gapped (.060).

Both times it stalled I was able to quickly restart the car in neutral while still rolling. The radio/electrical never cut out. What gives??!!! :nm

I'm guessing the oil light is coming on because it stalled, and not that it stalled because of the oil pressure. A bad crank position sensor could cause you to stall.

Dan, I checked out your thread/article on changing the crank sensor, looks kinda involved.

I have a breaker bar and a 1/2" socket but not an air/impact wrench. Is there any way to rule a problem with the crank sensor in or out before attempting this operation?

I had another stall yesterday, and I believe you are correct- the stall causes the lights. The lights were battery, low oil & temp, all of which are OK. I was able to restart on the roll in neutral, radio, etc, never skipped a beat. A few more questions:

a) Will a code scan indicate whether the crank sensor is indeed the problem?
b) Is it possible a corroded/dirty fuse buss at the door sill cause this-- or would all of the electronics have cut out if this was the case?
c) Any estimate on how long / how bad things could get driving with this situation - i.e. is this a 'liveable' condition for the short term? Right now it is really just an annoyance, I'm not freaked when it happens.

Just to add some info for you. I have had this problem twice now with the crannk shaft position sensor. Its driveable for a while u will get stalls as you have already seen. However, it got to the point where it would stall out and it could be up to an hor before i would get it to restart. I would take care of it ASAP

Thanks for your insight. How were you able to determine it was the CSPS for sure? Did a diagnostic test indicate it? I just don't want to go tearing into the car if I can somehow rule it out... Also, any idea on what a shop might charge for this job?