I got tired of the squeeking. Changed out the struts, mounts, upper and lower dampener, bearing and spring seat. Problem looked to be in the metal mount above the bearing not the plastic spring seat or dampeners. Couldn't get a torque spec anywhere on the strut mounting nut, checked my chilton. No love (not the 3 strut mount nuts; the big one on the actual strut). Went with 52 Ft lbs, based on a very similar strut assembly off a grand am.

To get the mounting nut loose I grinded 2 flats on 5/8 (i think) socket. Held that in place with a pair of channel locks, then torqued the shock shaft loose with a star bit through the socket drive hole. New shocks had a diff system with an allen head instead of Star. new struts assembly also needed the socket head shaved 1/4 inch to clear the allen socket for some reason. Im thinking rubber in the mounts. Mark the relationship between strut and knuckle on the knuckel and relationship between the bar that connects the 4 strut mount bolts over the engine and frame onto the frame and I think you can return caster and camber.

Most of you use Quick struts pre assembled. Saved $100 reusing the springs and boots.

Had to loosen the stabilizer link . Bushings looked good. no sign of needing a replacement. long bolt hidden in a sleeve was rusted through and snapped.

Noticed No locking nut between inner and outer tie rods. Decided to change outer tie rods(broken boots) and stabilizer bar to frame bushings while I was in there. Inner and outer tie rod are now seized together. Tried heat. breaker bars. No go. Cutting the inner tie rod threaded shaft to replace the tie rods with a cut off wheel when the inner tie rod, stabilizer link and torque strut mount come in. (noticed that was shot).

I`ll try to get it as close as possible measuring the exposed thread before I go for a front end alignment. Noting caster, camber and right tire toe-in to the tech. and demand a print out.