Camshaft Sensor Causing Misfire!!! Yeah! - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 09-16-2004, 01:07 PM   #11
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Verifying that magnet is a big must right now.

The cam sensor and crank sensor will almost ALWAYS set a code.....so I wouldn't reccommend shotgunning one unless you actually have the code.

The top end cleaner will help, but I doubt it'll solve your stumbling problem. Cleaning the TB would have a greater effect, but I think you need to look at the wiring to and from the sensor, and verify the magnet'* existence first.
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Old 09-16-2004, 03:24 PM   #12
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Sounds like taking it to a shop will be a priority, then. Any time estimates on testing wires and looking forand potentially replacing the magnet?
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Old 09-16-2004, 03:26 PM   #13
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Wires can be done by you if you can find someone with a 94 FSM to give you the pinouts back to the PCM plugs. Shouldn't take but a few minutes. I'd use alligator clips on the leads, then go through and bend/pull the wires everywhere while you watch the meter.

Someone that'* replaced the magnet will have to chime in on that issue.
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Old 09-23-2004, 03:58 PM   #14
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Got another code on the way downtown today. I didn't feel anything. When the camshaft position sensor threw the code it jerked hard. This time I didn't feel anything. Maybe this one'* differant. I sure hope so. I haven't had time to get this to a shop. Maybe next week. I'm saving my pennies for a Garmin GPSMAP 60CS. I think I'd rather lose the car than not get that unit.
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Old 09-27-2004, 12:44 AM   #15
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Yep. Still the same code. So, I have two options as I see it...

1) Get the necessary tools and equipment to check the magnet and the wiring. Since I'm in an apartment, I'll probably need to find a friend with garage space and a free weekend. Then if I find a wiring issue, how do I fix it? Standard wire and twist nuts from Lowes? I'm guessing not. Soldering? Is replacing the magnet an afternoon job and should I just go ahead and replace the timing belt/chain while I'm in there if I need to be there anyway?

2) Give up and take it to a shop. Suppose I could get away for less than $200? The sensor'* new, so at least one part is free from blame and cost.

I picked up some Seafoam and Mobile One the last time I had the codes run. Running that stuff through the vacuum hose was fun. I'm sure the neighbors downwind hate me now. I couldn't see their house 50 feet away!
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Old 09-28-2004, 03:41 AM   #16
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I've started noticing some electrical fluctuations recently. For instance the lights flicker a bit when the sound system is turned up and the bass kicks in. Tonight I was playing a CD with the ignition in ready so I could put the windows down. The darn thing shut off three times. The paln is three fold, since I don't own a mister. In the morning I'll get the battery and altenator checked since they've lasted 2 years longer than any other pair I've had. (5 altenators in the first five years I had the car. Sound familiar?) Then on the way home, I'll get a plant mister to do the arc search. If nothing'* shown up, I'll take it in to have the wires looked at.

Good plan?
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Old 09-29-2004, 12:00 AM   #17
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http://bellsouthpwp.net/p/a/padgett46/cammag.htm

I am giving you some valuable information that was passed on to me. I had a code "41" (cam position sensor) Car ran like total excrement. Changed the sensor and it wasn't the whole problem, though it was damaged in the "magnet disintegration process".

I jacked the car up, properly supported it, removed the passenger side front wheel and the black plastic inspection cover. It is in the inner fender, to the right of the front axle, and is about a foot long and held in by three plastic rivets. Carefully grasp the small rivet head and pull out - it should pop out, and then you can remove the rivets.

Behind the cover is the harmonic (Crank) pully. If you grab a flashlight, and go up to 10'o clock on the pully, behind it there is a sensor with a harness covered in corregated wire loom. It is held in by a 3/8" bolt. Unplug the sensor, move the wire away and remove the sensor. Follow the procedure outlined at the above site very carefully, and you will save about $300 or more in labor and be back on the road in no time!

Two cautions: a) make DARN SURE your timing components are okay, especially in a higher-mileage bonnie. If they are not, spend the big bucks and get it all done at a shop. and b) I am a fairly small guy (5'6") and can fit into the wheel-well area (note the term above "properly supported" -- if the car goes somewhere, there is nowhere to run to - use jackstands, heck use TWO jackstands!). A bigger fellow may have trouble in tight quarters such as these!

My hope is that this procedure will benefit you like it did me. Be sure to use JB Weld -- it'* stronger than the factory plastic tabs, in my opinion!

God bless!
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Old 09-29-2004, 12:43 AM   #18
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I'll pitch in my two cents worth. I have a '92 SSEi and HAD been chasing electrical/stumbling/hestitation problems for around 4 years. I'm 90% certain I've solved the problem (knock on wood). It was a combination of the alternator and the ingnition wires.

Ignition wires:
I've been going through new sets of wires every year since I've owned the car. Each time the stumbling/hestitation problem(*) would improve slightly but not totally and it would never last very long. I finally got a break last month when one of the wires (on #4 cylinder) went bye-bue and disconnected itself from the boot. This happened due to excessive heat... I immediately found a high temp set of plug wires from Accel for around $70 for the set. Installed them and the problems all went away.

Alternator:
When I bought the car the Alt. gave it up the first week. I bought a 105Amp Alt (hey, what did *I* know??), installed it and the unit lasted until last month. I know I got lucky that an Alternator would last 4 years, but it did. Sort of... it was actually contributing to my electrical/stumbling/hesitation problems and I didn't know it. I noticed that the bearings going bad as they were squeaking and producing metal shavings all over the engine belts. I discovered this when the Water Pump went south. So being of better educated mind (thanks to this website!!) I purchased a 140Amp Alternator and installed it. A tight fit but worth it. Now I have no more hesitation/stumbling or electrical troubles at all. The car has never run this good since I've bought it.
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Old 09-29-2004, 03:05 PM   #19
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What'* the complication of removing the timing cover and doing it the old fashioned way? Wouldn't I need to do this if I want to make sure my timing components are good?

The other thing I'm thinking about is whether the Cam Sensor code comes on all the time if the magnet'* missing. I would think it would, but there may be a reason that it wouldn't.
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Old 09-29-2004, 11:11 PM   #20
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Default Complications are twofold:

Where the trouble lies is not really the cover itself, or the water pump -- which my manual says can stay on the cover provided you remove the two largest bolts. The problem lies with the motor mount, which needs to be removed, and the harmonic balancer (crank) pulley, which also needs to be removed. THis requires care and special tools. Oh yeah, you also involve the crank sensor -- if it hasn't been replaced yet (mine was last year - have documentation) you better replace it. Takes ANOTHER special tool.

By the time you buy all the stinkin' "special tools" (one time use only, probably, unless you are a mechanic or have relatives that have plenty of 3800'* that need work) you are already close to the labor cost for a guy with tools, expertise and a lift to do it. Plus you don't get dirty or suffer from herniated discs.

I must be getting old... it'* getting easier and easier to recommend hiring help to do stuff. If cost is an issue, though, and you have mechanical ability, the J B Weld procedure turned off my SES light and turned the power back on!
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