Brakes, Again.... - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 08-20-2004, 12:40 AM   #11
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My money is on the master cylinder.
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Old 08-20-2004, 03:22 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr's3800
Dame, do me a couple of favors... Check the brake lines just like Jason says.... Somtimes they will kink or expand... But I'm think the same as you, But its worth a check to be sure...

Also have a friend or your sister push that brake pedal down while you listen to the master cylinder... If it sounds like the fluis is whoosing by the seals than the master cylinder may be bad...

Also when you depress the brakes will you get any pressure? and if so, can you pump them up only to have your foot sink to the floor again? And I'm sure you have checked and have no leaks right...

And here'* where I say " I'm still stumped "
Christ. You're right again. You can hear the MC whooshing from about a mile away.... That and the lines expand about a 1/4" each, I calculated it all out using some formulas I found on a saturn racing site. With a good master, I am losing 79% of my braking power to line expansion. Add a leaky master on and... BAM! no brakes. If I blow one more master I'm going to start looking for something will fit, but isn't designed for this application. I have all the formulas here to figure out exactly what I need.
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Old 08-20-2004, 03:24 PM   #13
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Get some beefy high strength lines
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Old 08-20-2004, 03:26 PM   #14
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I was thinking stainless. But where do you get those?
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Old 08-20-2004, 03:30 PM   #15
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Can you explain the technique you used to bleed the master cylinder?

Cheers,
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Old 08-20-2004, 03:36 PM   #16
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Mount the master in the car
hook up the little clear tubes that came in the box with it, route them into res
pump the pedal about a million times
remove clear tubes and hook in brake lines
bleed RR, LR, RF, LR
Have brakes.
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Old 08-20-2004, 03:43 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damemorder
Mount the master in the car.
The master cylinder CANNOT be properly bled while installed in the car. The cylinder must be perfectly horizontal to effect proper bleeding, in order to do that while in the car the rear must be jacked up about 6 feet.

You must bench bleed the master before installing it in the car and then bleed it again from there. Check the instructions that came with the master cylinder.

Cheers,
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Old 08-20-2004, 03:50 PM   #18
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F*%& me.

I'm pretty sure I read the instructions.... and Dad was right there...


Foghorn, You rock.
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Old 08-20-2004, 03:53 PM   #19
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I'm sure jegs, summit racing, etc will have stainless lines.
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Old 08-20-2004, 04:03 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damemorder
F*%& me.

I'm pretty sure I read the instructions.... and Dad was right there...


Foghorn, You rock.
Go and look and look at that cylinder while it'* in the car, you see the slope it'* on? That slope will trap air at the front of the cylinder and you will never get it out.

I replaced the master cylinder on my Lesabre a couple of months ago and let me tell you, even bench bleeding the cylinder took a lot to get the air out. On top of the roughly 20 to 30 full strokes they recommend, you will also need to tap the cylinder with a hammer to get the air out, and if in doubt - stroke some more.

If you look in the bag that the plastic fittings and bleeders came in, it should explain the need, and technique, to properly bench bleed the cylinder.

Cheers,
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