'95 Bonneville that stalls - like shutting off key
#1
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'95 Bonneville that stalls - like shutting off key
I have a base model '95 Bonneville SE that stalls at odd intervals... 30 seconds one time 30 minutes the next. Most of the time the engine will start right back up, while a few times it will crank for a long time before starting.
When the engine stalls, it dies as if the key had been turned off... like an electrical disconnect and not as if it is running out of fuel.
Vehicle does not have remote key entry, nor does it have pass-key theft deterent system from the factory, and the aftermarket remote entry/alarm system has been disconnected. It does have power locks and power windows.
I've checked for codes and there are none.
Checked and cleaned the buss grounds by the left side and right side doors. No effect.
Cleaned the engine compartment body grounds. No effect.
Checked battery terminals for corrosion. None.
Replaced the crank sensor. No effect.
Replaced the Ignition Control Module. No effect.
I disconnected the Pass-key Decoder module connector and it had no effect at all... engine started and ran as usual (until it quits on its own after 30 seconds to 30 minutes).
Engine appears to lose spark and the injectors do not appear to continue to fire during engine winddown after stall (no black smoke on restart out tailpipe).
Fuel pressure stays at 42-45 psi even after stall.
Sometimes the fuel pump relay, cooling fan relay and cluster lights "cycle" on and off at approx a 10 Hz rate when the engine stalls.
Any help or insight on this issue would be greatly appreciated.[/b]
When the engine stalls, it dies as if the key had been turned off... like an electrical disconnect and not as if it is running out of fuel.
Vehicle does not have remote key entry, nor does it have pass-key theft deterent system from the factory, and the aftermarket remote entry/alarm system has been disconnected. It does have power locks and power windows.
I've checked for codes and there are none.
Checked and cleaned the buss grounds by the left side and right side doors. No effect.
Cleaned the engine compartment body grounds. No effect.
Checked battery terminals for corrosion. None.
Replaced the crank sensor. No effect.
Replaced the Ignition Control Module. No effect.
I disconnected the Pass-key Decoder module connector and it had no effect at all... engine started and ran as usual (until it quits on its own after 30 seconds to 30 minutes).
Engine appears to lose spark and the injectors do not appear to continue to fire during engine winddown after stall (no black smoke on restart out tailpipe).
Fuel pressure stays at 42-45 psi even after stall.
Sometimes the fuel pump relay, cooling fan relay and cluster lights "cycle" on and off at approx a 10 Hz rate when the engine stalls.
Any help or insight on this issue would be greatly appreciated.[/b]
#2
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Replace the PCM, Its bad...
This is a very common issue with the 94-95 3800 C and H bodies.... with the description you have provided I think the PCM will be your best bet
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This is a very common issue with the 94-95 3800 C and H bodies.... with the description you have provided I think the PCM will be your best bet
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#3
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Thanks jr,
I'll post the outcome of replacing the PCM. I was 80% convinced it was the PCM because of the "common denominators" all leading to the PCM. It'* good to have a little feedback that helps make that call.
I'll post the outcome of replacing the PCM. I was 80% convinced it was the PCM because of the "common denominators" all leading to the PCM. It'* good to have a little feedback that helps make that call.
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Please do let us know the outcome...
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#5
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
I'm 100% in agreement here.
For some reason the 94/95 PCM'* were the most unreliable PCM years. My local parts store actually stocks one on the shelf.
For some reason the 94/95 PCM'* were the most unreliable PCM years. My local parts store actually stocks one on the shelf.
#7
Senior Member
Certified GM nut
pcm
I paid $20 for mine at the yard and recently used it on my 90. Threw multiple codes that didn't make sense, then started dumping fuel with massive smoke. PCM ECU fixed it.
Just be sure you ground out any residual charge after unhooking the Battery to change it. You could do this by turning a few accessories on and of with the battery unhooked or step on the brake.
Just be sure you ground out any residual charge after unhooking the Battery to change it. You could do this by turning a few accessories on and of with the battery unhooked or step on the brake.
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PCM took care of the problem. Ran engine for an hour and a half after installing the reman'd PCM and it never quit.
Thanks for all your help guys. Hopefully this will help someone else also
Thanks for all your help guys. Hopefully this will help someone else also
#10
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Glad to hear that solved the problem...
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