Brake noise help
 

Ok i need some diagnostic help.

I think one or possibly both my brake calipers are sticking. I know for sure the passenger side pads are rubbing the rotor because with that windo down i can hear the scraping very loudly. As soon as i press the breaks slightly the scraping noise goes away so I am pretty sure it is just the breakes making the noise and nothing else.


What do I need to look for on the pads, rotors and/or calipers to make sure it is the calliper sticking or freezing up? I have rebuilt the front calipers on my roommates old concorde so I am sure i can do it on the bonne if I need to.

I can't afford new callipers but can't i use the calipers from a new bonne rebuild them and put them on my 89 LE?

Any assistance would be greatly apreciated.

I have never done a caliper rebuild before but I did look up the proccess in my maintaince manual. It actually seems fairly easy. There are only two catches. 1) You need compressed air (or possibly another method ) to force the old piston out. 2) You will need a seal driver to place the new piston with the seal back into the opening all the way.

I'm sure someone out here has done it before and can give you more insight into it but to me it looks like a faily easy task if you have the tools.

I have already rebuilt a caliper on my roommates car so I know I can do the rebuild on the calipers. I just need to know what I should look for to see if the calipers are sticking/ freezing up.

Like wear paterns on the rotors or pads.

I also need to know if the calipers from a newer bonne or Grand Prix will fit on my 89 so I can find a used caliper at the junkyard with few miles.

Caliper to pad contact, if it's not aligned, will be obvious on the back of the pad. You'll see a semicircle. Sometimes the trailing edge of the pad will be thinner than the leading edge, too.

I'm sure you checked to ensure that when you're applying brakes that it doesn't pulsate the car.. that would say it's a warped rotor...

Just sounds like old, glazed pads to me. The shiny, hard surface of worn pads will squeak as the rotor just kisses them. Once you step on the brakes the pads are brought into full contact with the rotors and the noise stops.

Just for grins and giggles, take off the front pads. If they are thin enough to replace, get new ones. If not, rub them on your driveway or some 40-grit sandpaper (no, I'm not kidding) enough to knock off the shiny surface and bring up some new pad material. Don't use a pwer sander or grinder because you don't want to breathe this crap.

Put the pads back on and see if the noise goes away.

VERY often, you don't need new calipers.

Thanks Wesbo I never knew that.

The rotors must be slightly warped because there is a slight vibration when I get on the breaks hard. We are talking the last 1/3 or so of the pedals travel.

if they're warped you'll definitely feel the pulsating in the brake pedal once you step on it.
I had to get another rotor--bought aftermarket--cost was $20! Geez-around here to cut a rotor it's $10--not much of a decision there.
Check into prices for a new rotor--can't hurt.
Also--if you do need to change a caliper-you should change your front rubber brake lines, after all if it's all stock it is 13 yrs old-and they expand on the inside where you can't see it.

I wonder how much stainless steel lines would be for the bonne? hmhhh.

I'd think can't be more then $20-25 each.
i really need to change mine too--has some cracks-not good! :shock:

Just to screw up you guys even more think about this:
There is 2 kinds of warpage of rotors!
1.) Lateral warpage is when the wheel hasn't been torqued properly & has caused the rotor to warp when heated. This type of warpage can be measured using a dial indicator.
2.) The other kind of warpage occurs from the brake pads overheating the rotor under panic, hard stops. This causes the rotor to change colour to a blueish tinge.
The first type of warpage will be felt through the steering wheel, while the second type of warpage will be felt through the brake pedal when the brakes are applied.
Just some food for thought! :wink:

My torque wrench does not go up that for so I usually just guesstimate with the lug wrench.

I do'nt think i feel any vibration through the wheel what little I do feel is through the pedal.

There is a junkyard here that gets tons of brand new, 1999 and up, cars. If I were to get a set of calipers from a newer bonne they would fit on my 89 no probl right?

Under torquing the lug nuts is just as bad as over torquing them! :shock: You can get a cheap torque wrench that goes upto 150 Ft Lbs for under $50.00 CDN! :wink:

Partly pedal partly
 

I'm not a good for binding issues with the cost and it is almost more than a half hour to do I read this funny chat and classes I've felt haven't been much help so I listened and checked it was minor of these and slot more cause tak greese isn't quite as much dispelling and sounds like it cycling all due to a system of tierods

Who you talking to? Post is more than 20 years old.

Old GM suits I only found this system as a floating factory or upgrade no less is not upgrade sure more to the need to observe the flaming old cars I boast it mite be tierods I know is the factory part is inclusion of noise no smell it's gone brake pad terrible it sparked can be hot knew to it though I watched the GM founders funeral so unexpected this tuely that's why IV got on order these change the noise is stupid the art to reuse part or get an order that the noise suspected is heavy duty all these funny I should try to be more than one that cracks me up is solo and I hear length of the kind of service joints there is in road shingles a flat head wontmend it a new order does like old it's over 20

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