Power steering hoses
#1
BANNED
Posts like a 4 Banger
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Power steering hoses
Can someone please tell me how hard it is to change the power steering hoses.
I have a leak in one of them that goes into the rack and pinion. :(
Looks like the one from the pump but I will probably change both. the car has the cooler for the steering also and it isn't cheep. $125.00 new oem Thanks
I have a leak in one of them that goes into the rack and pinion. :(
Looks like the one from the pump but I will probably change both. the car has the cooler for the steering also and it isn't cheep. $125.00 new oem Thanks
#2
Senior Member
True Car Nut
I had to replace a leaky return line in mine. Being a cheap bastard, I wanted to take the one off of the parts car instead of buying a new one. They were different though and I wasn't sure if it would work. I went from this mess:
To this one:
It wasn't as bad as I thought for the removal of the leaky one. I thought I'd have to lift the motor because of the path it took under the crank pully and along the subframe but that wasn't needed. I did have to take a hack saw and cut the line so I could get a deep socket on the nut. My flare wrench flexed and opened rounding the nut. Since yours is leaking too, it wouldn't hurt to cut the line to just use a socket. I was able to remove the one from the parts car without much trouble. It cooperated quite well. I also borrowed a Snap-On flare nut wrench which might have helped with the removal.
Installation was simple and straight forward.
It does have a knuckle buster raiting of 5 out of 10 though due to the exhaust sheetmetal that is located near the nuts on the rack. Wear some gloves.
To this one:
It wasn't as bad as I thought for the removal of the leaky one. I thought I'd have to lift the motor because of the path it took under the crank pully and along the subframe but that wasn't needed. I did have to take a hack saw and cut the line so I could get a deep socket on the nut. My flare wrench flexed and opened rounding the nut. Since yours is leaking too, it wouldn't hurt to cut the line to just use a socket. I was able to remove the one from the parts car without much trouble. It cooperated quite well. I also borrowed a Snap-On flare nut wrench which might have helped with the removal.
Installation was simple and straight forward.
It does have a knuckle buster raiting of 5 out of 10 though due to the exhaust sheetmetal that is located near the nuts on the rack. Wear some gloves.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post