Bleeding Brakes
 

After painting calipers, doing rotors and pads,and red calipers, and some good rotor seasoning, i'm still slightly mushy... But it stops like a bat now :lol:

Are there any special things to consider while bleeding 93 brakes? I have ABS, and i've read and heard about using a Tech1 on 94+ models to pump the abs cylindar, however i do not have such a tool, just a good bleeding kit.

Also how much brake fluid should i have? I got a big bottle, about 1 quart right now... I have my book on how to do it, just want to get some personal advice first!

Thanks!

I had to do mine when I replaced my Master Cylinder. nothing hard I did mine from the MC rather than the calipers just beacuse the air will rise to the top. just do it 2 more times than you think so you are sure to have everything purged

Hi 1993 SLE how do you bleed the calipers at the master cylinder?

Re: Bleeding Brakes
 

Start with the right rear wheel(the farthest from the MC), then the left rear, the right front and finally the left front. Refill the MC reservoir after you bleed each wheel. Also(and I'm sorry to those who have heard me say this before), NOW would be a good time to replace the front rubber brake lines if they have not been replaced in awhile. It will help give you a firm pedal.

To get a firm pedal you have to adjust the rear brakes too, they are what give you pedal 'feel'. Take off the drums and adjust them out until you have to use a rubber mallot to get the drums back on. Then spin the hub, you should be able to turn it but have to put some oomph behind it. Then repeat the other side. I have to do this about every 3 months or so, even tho I rebuilt them last year. I require that 'put your head thru the window' feeling at all times.

Also, not haveing the rears doing the right amount of breaking, will cause the fronts to have to pick up the slack, and with the inferior rotor dia on our cars, that is not a good thing.

Jay

Yeah i've heard that our rear brakes can have a big effect on our braking. But i'm a simple man who's only worked on discs so far :lol: I'll drag the repair manual home next time i'm up there and get to em. But after bleeding/swap of fluid the new stoppers are even better. Can't wait till i get the rear adjusted right.

EDIT: Ol Timer, I have read that starteing at the brake CLOSEST to the MC, (LF) then going further away (RF,LR,RR) is the optimum way to bleed brakes?

Just adjusting them isnt hard. Most drums have a plug you remove and turn the adjuster with a flat head screw driver, we are not that lucky.

Take the drum off. Then you will see a lever that pushes against a toothed wheel. In theory when you back up hard the pads shift causing the lever to push against the teeth and adjusts the shoes. This does not always happen, especially if not lubricated well. All you do is turn the adjuster so it pushes the pad out, atleast 5 clicks. Then try to put the drum on and spin the hub. You should have some decent drag, but its OK, because with the moment arm the wheel creates on the hub, it isnt that bad. That is all there is to it.

:)

Jay

Double post. :oops:

Do it the right way, Ol' Timers' way. Read a few of his posts, this man knows brakes.

The way i posted was listed in my service manual. What does the FSM say?