1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 04-19-2008, 11:01 PM
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my 97 se has been running like a top the last while thanks to you guys helping with my past questions .i parked her lastnight and she was runnig fine .this morning i started her up and she had what sounded like lifter noise i drove it 30 miles and the noise was gone .i pulled in to get coffee and it started tapping again.then she lost all her power .i checked my oil it was down mabye a quart so i went to a gas station and bought some and topped it up drove back 30 miles home and it was fine.went to go back out shortly after and it was tapping extremely bad. i took another car and got some new plugs and oil and filter .changed all of this stuff and it was no better i went around the block and it hardly moved .came back home and changed the coils i thought mabye it wn t fireing on all six no difference.now this is where it gets confusing .i went in the house for a minute came back out started her up and there wasnt a sound other than her bark from her flowmaster so i went out and smoked some guys mustang it worked the way it was suposed to work came home my nieghbers couldnt believe this quite running bonneville was the same one that was hammering so bad just 20 minutes before i thought it was fixed just went to put her in the driveway for the night and the majorly loud tapping is back and barely had power to pull into my yard .how can it tap so loud you would sware the rods were going to come through the block one minute and then run so smooth and quite with awsome performance the next.? p.*. major sputtering out the exhaust like a heavy miss fire while tapping occurs .
Old 04-19-2008, 11:20 PM
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Did you check the oil for little sparklies when you changed it? That could be a sign of internal damage occurring.
Old 04-19-2008, 11:28 PM
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Maybe try looking into your MAF air flow sensor. Just messed with mine because it was running like poo, took the MAF out and cleaned it, be carefull not to damage the little wires in there or you will be spending around 150.00 for the new MAF. Anyway, mine now runs good again.
Old 04-19-2008, 11:36 PM
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yes i have replaced the maf sensor not even a month ago
Old 04-20-2008, 12:25 AM
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Look at the oil in the front valve cover though the fill hole after driving (warmed up). Is it milky?

Check your coolant. Is it low?
Old 04-20-2008, 09:10 AM
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today the car wont start so i cant get it warmed up to check the oil colour .but yesterday i filled the rad and the bottle to the cold line and there is nothing in the bottle and the rad is down to the point where you cant see any liquid and the new oil is way over full.
Old 04-20-2008, 09:24 AM
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The coolant leaked into the crankcase & mixed with the oil. Here'* a link to the Techinfo article. http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=38

1st thing you need to do is an oil change ASAP.
Old 04-20-2008, 11:02 AM
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Drain that oil NOW. Or you'll be replacing the entire motor next.
Old 04-20-2008, 11:47 AM
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After changing the oil I like to drain the remaining coolant & run the engine for 15 seconds so clean oil gets to the bearings. You'll most likely need to replace the plugs before it'll start. Crank it over for a few seconds with all the plugs out to get any coolant out of the cylinders.
Old 04-20-2008, 05:39 PM
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all oil is out pulled plugs and cranked engine over for 15 seconds brand new plugs yesterday are soaked


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