I followed the lead of someone else here and decided to do some paint touchup with duplicolor paint on my white 1996 SSEi. This was my first try at auto painting, so I studiously tried to follow directions. I did all the lengthy prep work that you're supposed to do. Sanded the area first: first with 100, then 220, then with 400, then with 1000, then with 1500, then with 2000 grit paper. I washed the area. Then I used 3M paint prep to remove any contaminates. Then I masked off the area with with low adhesion house painting masking tape/paper. Then I used a duplicolor paint adhesion spray (two layers). Then I put on about 5 or 6 coats of paint, each very thin, letting it dry 5 minutes between each spray. Then I waited an hour and applied a top coat, and then 2 more top coats at 5 minute intervals. It came out looking pretty good. Even the color seems to match pretty close. I waited an hour, and then went to pull off the masking tape. Ooops!. I really did that wrong. It came off fine in most spots, but of course in the most visible spot it "peeled off" some of the fresh new paint (like your skin peels off after a reallly bad sun burn), ripping into the paintjob. Afterward, I read this is called "delaminating".

I'm not quite back to square one, since the "scrapes" that went all the way to the plastic are still painted over. So, I went from a big eyesore to a smaller eyesore. I guess I'll have to sand down the peeled paint zone and try again. Where did I make my mistake so that I don't repeat it? My guesses are:

1. I should have waited longer before removing the masking tape; or,

2. I should have somehow "cut" the masking tape free instead of pulling it off; or,

3. I should have used a masking tape that somehow repels paint, so that the paint would not have stuck to it in the first place. I've heard there'* something called--you guessed it--"auto masking tape". Does this prevent the problem I had?

4. I should have picked a better paint ahesion primer; or,

5. The masking tape was too close to the target paint zone.

Also, when should I start sanding down the affected area that has the paint rips? Right away while the paint is still soft, or wait till it has cured?

2. I should have somehow "cut" the masking tape free instead of pulling it off
5. The masking tape was too close to the target paint zone.

You should use a exacto knife along the painted edge very slightly just to free the tape from the paint...
Also you shouldnt be so clost that you had covered the tape with paint. Just overspray should show up... but if there is alot of paint do as I said above.

I did both rockers... and rocker covers on my car... just to let you know how much exp I have.. with Bonne'* anyway

Man, I hate it when I give advice and it goes bad for the person getting it. At least I think it was my advice you took? Based on my experience, I would have to agree with russianpolarbear. I have always used auto masking tape and let it "cut" the paint as I take it off. Peel it off slowly at the angle that pulls it away from the paint area and cuts the paint at the tape edge. ............I don't think I explained that very well. I haven't used an exacto knife before. That would probably work with a lite enough touch. The worst I have had to deal with is what the body shop calls a hard tape line. An edge of new paint that is higher then the old paint after the tape is removed. I'm no body man, but I would let it harden for a week before I worked it again.

I've got some hard tape lines too in some spots. What'* the rememdy? I assume I have to sand it down or something.

By the way, I found out there'* something called "liquid mask". You "paint" it on the areas you want to mask, and then it washes off with water. I guess this would cure the ripping problem, assuming it actually works as advertised.

Never heard of the liquid mask. Sounds good, if it realy works. I've always been able to get rid of my tape lines with some gentle wet sanding. Really fine paper, obviously and then some compound to bring back the gloss. Keep in mind I said I wasn't a body or paint guy. I'm just too cheap and poor to afford a professional. I hope things go well.

Thanks, csom42. What grit sandpaper do you use to sand down the tape lines?

I used the 1000 grit wet. It takes a little longer, but I have more control over going too far. You definately don't want to get too carried away or you'll really be upset with the results.

What sounds like happened is you painted right to the edge of the tape which left you with an area with a hard tape edge, as was stated. The edge was obviously higher than the rest of the paint, and maybe the tape was pulled off the wrong way :? But it'* not anything that cannot be fixed...which is the good news.

My friend did some first time touch up and had similar results with one of his spots. I'd recommend masking off a larger area so you don't have a hard edge, but so you'd blend the paint into the surrounding areas. Then when done sand with the appropriate grit paper up to 2000, getting rid of any overspray, 'orange peel,' etc....and use rubbing compound to blend and shine the new paint.

I'll be repainting my fixed rust area soon. I may post about it if it can help anyone else doing a job like that themselves. Should be fun

I'm going to try sanding down the tape lines (and tear marks) this weekend with 1500 grit paper. We'll see if that works. The reason? Fine cut rubbing compounds can allegedly remove 1200 grit scratches, but 3m'* heavy cut rubbing compound (so called "super duty") is required to remove 1000 grit scratches. I don't know how well a new paint job would hold up to heavy cut rubbing compound. On the other hand, I'm not sure if 1500 is abrassive enough to do the job. I guess we'll see. I'll start with low agressive grit and then get aggressive grit if needed. I assume after all this sanding I'll have to do another top coat? :?: