Anyone have an electronic climate control unit for a 92?
I've determined that at least some of my problems stem from my climate control unit. Anyone have one they want to sell?
I can tell you the ECC itself is rarely the problem. In fact, I can't recall one failing. How about we troubleshoot your problem and give you a better idea to go after, or link us to your problem if you previously posted.
The Wanted section will be the best spot for asking for parts when we get it narrowed down.
If you could put your year and trim level in your signature (by editing your profile) it'll help us to help you. We have to know more about your car.
The Wanted section will be the best spot for asking for parts when we get it narrowed down.
If you could put your year and trim level in your signature (by editing your profile) it'll help us to help you. We have to know more about your car.
I've previously posted here.
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...=898205#898205
I had several problems, display was flashing, had only code 48, everytime I reset it though it comes back I also noticed that when I hit auto on the ECC it stays on econ and will not go to full auto. I found the relay that controls the compressor, shecked the relay, its fine, I can force the compressor to run with a jumper. I beieve I've narrowed it down to the ECC or the programmer, but I,m leaning toward the programmer. I checked the vacuum hoses and I do indeed have vacuum to the programmer. I have added as much refridgerant as I'm comfortable adding but that also did not kick the compressor on.
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...=898205#898205
I had several problems, display was flashing, had only code 48, everytime I reset it though it comes back I also noticed that when I hit auto on the ECC it stays on econ and will not go to full auto. I found the relay that controls the compressor, shecked the relay, its fine, I can force the compressor to run with a jumper. I beieve I've narrowed it down to the ECC or the programmer, but I,m leaning toward the programmer. I checked the vacuum hoses and I do indeed have vacuum to the programmer. I have added as much refridgerant as I'm comfortable adding but that also did not kick the compressor on.
Originally Posted by blawton_25
I've determined that at least some of my problems stem from my climate control unit. Anyone have one they want to sell?
To answer your question, I saw an Ebay store that rebuilds those and takes yours as a core. Not cheap but better than GM partsdirect, rockauto, etc.
Based on the information you gave me, I would suspect the pressure switch at fault (not allowing the compressor to run or operate in Auto, telling the programmer that it'* low on Freon), the programmer for misunderstanding the pressure switch, or the fact that you're actually low on freon.
1. Pressure switch.
2. Programmer.
3. Freon.
Not the ECC. I'd take it to a certified shop and have the functions and pressure checked before going further. The code 48 is trying to tell you the freon is low.
1. Pressure switch.
2. Programmer.
3. Freon.
Not the ECC. I'd take it to a certified shop and have the functions and pressure checked before going further. The code 48 is trying to tell you the freon is low.
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From: Dumfries, Virginia Member: #6887

Originally Posted by imidazol
Willwren is right. There is lots of help here to troubleshoot. You likely are wasting money if you guess at which parts are the problem.
I found one on ebay and bought it. It didn't fix anything. Mine was a different problem than yours. The display would flash the outside air temp and it would go from discharging cold air to hot air. Mine turned out being a bad vacuum valve (I think that'* what it was called.) under the dash. Part was $35 labor was $150.
I've checked the low pressure sensor and I don't have voltage on either side of it. Does anybody have a schematic of how the controls system works? Where does the low pressure sensor get power from? I've checked all the fuses and they're fine.
Fuse 11 and 17 power the programmer.
The programmer supplies 12V from pin D4 through the High, then the low presure switch, through the PCM for the ground. It'* a ark green/yellow wire. You should have 12 V on this wire at the programmer at all times, and the circuit completes when the PCM grounds the wire as a clutch request.
Also check fuse 5.
The programmer supplies 12V from pin D4 through the High, then the low presure switch, through the PCM for the ground. It'* a ark green/yellow wire. You should have 12 V on this wire at the programmer at all times, and the circuit completes when the PCM grounds the wire as a clutch request.
Also check fuse 5.
Ok, I've checked the fuses and didn't find any problems. I was able to check the voltage to the high pressure sensor and I have voltage there, I then tried to jump the sensor with a short wire and the I don't get any voltage on either side even though there was 12v on one side before I installed the jumper. I'm no electonics expert but that seems impossible. If I disconnect the jumper from one side I have 12v at the end of the jumper. I'm confused...any advice.
I also ran a wire from the positive terminal to the low pressure sensor and am able to turn the compressor on that way but when I do this I get error code 135 on the ECC which is data line failure.
To recap I have voltage to at least one side of the high pressure sensor but no voltage to either side of the low pressure sensor. I appreciate all the help thus far!!!!! Any more??
I also ran a wire from the positive terminal to the low pressure sensor and am able to turn the compressor on that way but when I do this I get error code 135 on the ECC which is data line failure.
To recap I have voltage to at least one side of the high pressure sensor but no voltage to either side of the low pressure sensor. I appreciate all the help thus far!!!!! Any more??
Originally Posted by blawton_25
Ok, I've checked the fuses and didn't find any problems. I was able to check the voltage to the high pressure sensor and I have voltage there, I then tried to jump the sensor with a short wire and the I don't get any voltage on either side even though there was 12v on one side before I installed the jumper. I'm no electonics expert but that seems impossible. If I disconnect the jumper from one side I have 12v at the end of the jumper. I'm confused...any advice.
I also ran a wire from the positive terminal to the low pressure sensor and am able to turn the compressor on that way but when I do this I get error code 135 on the ECC which is data line failure.
To recap I have voltage to at least one side of the high pressure sensor but no voltage to either side of the low pressure sensor. I appreciate all the help thus far!!!!! Any more??
I also ran a wire from the positive terminal to the low pressure sensor and am able to turn the compressor on that way but when I do this I get error code 135 on the ECC which is data line failure.
To recap I have voltage to at least one side of the high pressure sensor but no voltage to either side of the low pressure sensor. I appreciate all the help thus far!!!!! Any more??
You're reading ACROSS the switch, aren't you? If you read across a BLOWN fuse, you'll read the full potential, as the meter completes the circuit. Take your readings from the probe point (red probe on the switch) to chassis ground. Not from one side to the other.


