Air filter
 

ok i was wondering if the stock gutted airbox with a k and n filter is it is the same or better then a rice pipe and cone filter....also y is it right after i gutted my air box an engine code came on saying i was running to lean....i think it was p0171...now i put on a rice pipe and cone filter....same thing happens to lean....
but it does wine alot more sounds cool! 8) just need a smaller pully now!

I doubt that either filter setup is causeing the lean condition; as I would also hold off on the smaller pulley till the reason for the lean condition is pinpointed and taken care of.

Ed

ya i was reading about it online and i think i may have a clue as to what is going on....

well a good thing to do when ever you make a chane in intake, exahust or proformance its a good idea to reset you PCM (computer), it remembers certin things, im sure someone can explain it bette then i can.
bt what you do it just disconnect you Bat for like 15min and then hook it back up and go for a drive for about 10miles.
take of normal for you, then do some WOT runs, and just some normal driveing...



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WOOT!!!! 700th Post.
:bpylons:

ok i was wondering if i should do that or not....but ya i removed my MAF screen and i read online the it could be a dirty MAF sensor so i think ill try cleaning that to...i guess it say to just take it off and spray it with some brake cleaner....

umm NO, NO, NO NOOOOOOOOOO

do NOT clean your MAF sensor with brake cleaner!!!!! Clean the sensor with alcohol and some cotton swabs. You do not need to have the whole metal housing to be clean...just having the sensor clean will do it. If you put brake cleaner on it..you most likely WILL kill your sensor...and THEY ARE VERY EXPENSIVE!!!

REALY??? wow idk thats what some website seid ....ok ill stay away from that ...so do i have to remove the whole unit or can i get to the sensor with a cotton ball without taking the unit off?

nahh, It needs to come off to clean it, otherwise you could slip and break the ever so brittle wires, and you will regret it. They aren't hard to take off. It's the black box on the TB, just take the 3 screws out and pull it out, and clean with a q tip ever so gently.

EDIT - Actually, here's a way better writeup than what I told you.

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=64

ok i just printed that up ill go and try it thanks for the help ill let you no what happens....

OK, I'll third the alcohol and Q-tip method.

Also, it seems unlikely that either your gutted air box or your CAI caused a lean fuel bank one condition (though I suppose remotely possible). More likely will be your battery connections as in this thread:
Lean Fuel Bank One

Or a sensor.

And you definitely want to get that issue resolved before even thinking about a smaller pulley. Then you should get a complete scan to understand your fuel baselines before going forward with that smaller pulley. Do a little searching on smaller pulleys in the Forced Induction section.

the only thing i have noticed is every once in a while when i drive around a corner and then give it some fuel it will hesitiate....but u think i may be a bad ground would do such a thing?

That should only happen when you are low on gas, the fuel pump is getting deprived of gas and is stalling out the engine.

nope never run it low on gas... i just have a feeling its the MAF sensor.... its the big flat black box on the top right theres like 3 sensors on the throttle body

Truthfully, from your descriptions, it could have a few possible causes. I usually like to recommend the least expensive possible causes first. You know, the ones that just take some time and diagnosis? Then, move on to possible bad parts issues and the testing required to determine them.

So, that having been said, do a few of these checks first and report back. Then we can go further from there if necessary.

1) Pull the battery connection covers back and carefully look at both the positive and negative cable ends. Is there any corrosion on the connectors? The battery posts? The cables themselves, under the wire covers? If so, remove them and clean them up well and apply dielectric grease before re-assembling.

2) Follow your cables to their engine and fuse relay connections and review the connectors, posts, and wire conditions there. Clean as necessary.

3) Have you ever replaced your fuel filter? If not, or if not within 15,000-20,000 miles, do so.

4) Observe more carefully the conditions when it cuts out around corners. Is it just when you have 1/4 tank of gas or less? Detailed information will make it easier for us to try and help.

Report your findings back here. ;)

ok first ill check the battery connections....n yes i just replaced the fuel fiter say a thousand miles ago...

and no it does it whenever becasue i have over half now and it did it on the way home today.... its nothing horrible but a very small stutter....

now that i think about it the one place it does it almost every time is when im turing left at about 15 mph maybe 20

well i just cleaned the MAF sensor and it didnt look bad at all and i dont belive that was the prob....i cleaned off a few spots on the batt terminals n they werent to bad....one question how in the world do you get the the ground on the front of the motor....im hoping thats the prob

OMG... How could I miss this.

Requesting a move to 92-99 Mechanical.

Dyno.. You have the EXACT and yes, EXACT issue I have been dealing with. After trying tons of stuff with only success in making it happen less often (so far) I'm here for you.

Ok, first things first. Read that thread on P0171 that Lash has linked above. Battery connections seem to be the largest factoring item so far.

Do get into the car and clean all the contact points for grounds and positive cables. Also MAKE SURE to remove the plastic boots covering the battery cables at the battery to look at the connections.

I found this

Attachment 64917
Attachment 64918

My issue started when I changed the battery.

Was there anything you did regarding electrical system? Starter or anything like that?

nothing at all i changed my battery about 4 or 5 months ago thats it....i just took all the terminals i could find apart and they had a lil crap on them but nothing like urs the only thing i couldent get to is the pos n neg connections on the front of the motor....but c the weird thing is i cleared the code 2 days ago stayed off for a day came back on yesterday went off last night and then came back on today....so i cleaned all the terminals and just cleared it so i guess well c...

GOD im gettin angry it did it again it has been off for a day n a half n just poped on again!

ok idk if anyone else had this problem but the computer cant seem to make up its mine ....the check engine light has been goin on and off for the past few days and idk if like something is working and then its not working ....doesa anyone have any suggestions?

Scan.

Yup you will have to have a scan...

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but thats the problem i have been scanning and every time the light comes on its the lean condition problem ....but it seems to have the tendancy for the past 4 or 5 days to come on and off

Have you checked your fuel pressure and watched the fule tables during the scan? If you have a lean condition you need to find out what the cause is of the lean condition

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welll....nope not yet...i could check the fuel pressure....about were is it supposed to be around....and also im not to sure how to look at the fuel charts im not sure if the scanner has that or not...it is an obd 11 scanner but ive never sceen the feul table....?

The Fuel Pressure should be 48-55psi

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alright well ill check it as soon as possible

ok so i checked the fuel psi yesterday and it was 40 psi which i take as to low? i just recentley replace my fuel filter so its not that...umm could it be fuel pump filter

Let someone pipe in with a series II SC Bonnie for what fule pressure they see...

On my 95 SE NA 3800 II, I was getting as low as 32 PSI... Made for some weak driving...

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40psi WHEN? At idle? Ignition off, motor on? What was it at idle with the vacuum line disconnected?

it was at 40 psi at idle and all i did was hook up the meter i didnt touch anything else no vacum lines or ne thing...and then when i just turned the key in the on position without starting it it was round 45 psi.....

Hey Everyone...

Let's put the fuel pressure gauge down. 8) Recently we have a couple of members that fought this code in every manner possible.

Dyno...did you pull the booties off the battery connection wires? Also..you need to get under the car, remove the plastic shield and clean connections for the ground at the block. It looks tough but goes pretty well. Then pull the cover off the maxifuse relay center...and clean the connections where the positive lead is bolted to supply power.

The light and PCM seem to drive you nuts because it takes two consecutive drive cycles with a failure to come on and 3 good consecutive cycles to go off.

Here's my advice, and take this from someone that went crazy like you are. Stop testing fuel pressure. If you want that light gone, hop over to the thread Lash linked, read it..you will see that 3-4 cars with this issue were cleared up with some form of battery cable cleaning or replacement of cable or battery. (battery was only replaced by San Juan Cruiser due to crack by terminal). I replaced cables because at that point..I was no longer playing around.

FP on a S2 SC is 48-57psi per the correct testing procedure of key on, bleed air, key off, back on ..off back on to attain max pressure....leave like that for 10 min to look for any leak down.

ok well i cleaned every terminal i could find but the ground wires so i guess that will hopefully b my last stop...ill take your advice and go to it....

Also..PULL the boots off the terminals and look at the cables. My terminals looked great. all nice and clean. Still had the problem. I can't stress enough how this issue is slight variations in electrical current. Also check to ensure the #6 plug wire is not touching the O2 sensor wires. 1/2" away is ok..

The manual aims you straight for electrical variation items. I lived with that %#&^#%*&%#$^$#%^ light for almost 2 months. $100 in battery cables and I haven't seen it in almost 2 weeks.