Air Conditioner Problems (stuck on econ)
 

I have a 1992 SSE with and electronic climate control and I can get it to switch off of econ over to auto for the air conditioner. I just got this car and it was working perfectly for a couple days. I did a few repairs which may have affected the A/C without me knowing. They were changing to a 180 thermostat (which I had to disconnect the battery for) and I opened up my airbox then removed my MAF screen (which I have since put back in). I dont remember if the a/c worked right after I did this, but now it doesnt work at all. When I start the car the temperature flashes for a while and it is always on econ. I can control everything else, but I cant switch it to A/C. I know I dont need a recharge because I took it to the shop a week ago, but that was before this.

The blinking means there is a ECC (Electronic Climate Control) trouble code. Look in techinfo for the procedure to get the codes. Then let us know what it gives you.

I got a code number 48 which means long term frion loss. Is there any way I can fix this myself or do I have to take it in.

Leaks are hard to find without some form of dye in the froen. And if it's a slow leak, like "long term" suggests, then it makes it even more difficult. The leak may be easy to fix, depending on where it is, but might be difficult to find. IMO, shops tend to overcharge a little for this kind of stuff, but it may save you a lot of frustration.

Clear the code, and go about your life. Mine has done this 3 times in 2 years, and the AC is still Ice-cold. Consider it a bug, unless you lose your cool.

Use the procedure in Techinfo to clear the codes VERY carefully. Step-by-step.

I did clear the code, but it is still not cool. I dont understand it because it was ice cold a few days ago. I disconnected the battery to see if i could reset it somehow and now it has error code 52 or 152 - Keep Alive Memory lost; sets with battery disconnected and 40 or 140 - Driver Air Mix Motor circuit open or shorted, or not calibrated. Can anyone help with my wacky A/C.

Does the 180 thermostat that I installed have anything to do with my air conditioner issues?

I doubt it has anything to do with that at all

Does anyone think my error 140 is the problem - Driver Air Mix Motor circuit open or shorted, or not calibrated. Can anyone tell me how to fix that?

Not sure how well the A/C is working at this point. Does the compressor run OK?

If your air mix door is stuck, you won't get any cold in the car. With the AC running, do the condensor tubes under your hood near get cold and wet?

I dont know what the compressor looks like. :oops:

Near the strut tower on the passenger side is a canister with black insulation on it. There are 2 pipes coming from it. They may or may not have a protective black plastic coating. They run to the front of the car along the passenger side of the engine. Between the Engine and the inside of the fender, coolant recovery tank, and battery. They're aluminum.

If these get cold and moisture condenses on them, but you still don't have much cold in the car, it can be a blocked evap core or a stuck/busted/faulty airmix door. Since you have the code for the door, that's likely your culprit.

I'd suggest checking for what I mentioned, and if it's cold, but not in the car, get Chilton's #28200 from whatever auto parts store in your area sells it. You're really going to need it for this one. Should run you about $15. There are some posts here on replacing the airmix actuator. Try a search and read up to prepare yourself for the work.

Thanks I'll check it tommorow.

I had 40 error which is the same problem as yours except the "1" in front of yours indicates that this ia a history code where mine was a current problem. It did not prevent the AC from coming on but it caused the display to blink even after clearing the codes. I used the procedure in the service manual to re-calibrate the air mix circuit.

No more blinkies!

I couldnt figure it out so I took it to our local shop. They found out it was some bad wires and 20 bucks later Im in icytown.

For 20 bucks? That was worth it. Glad you got it running! I'm assuming wires to the airmix actuator inside the car?